"Bruiser Knife"

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Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
Stu really is a master of his craft - I count myself very lucky to have one of his custom creations!

It's a shame more people didnt value craftsmanship quite the same. It will be a treasured but not unused tool.

its nice to make your own stuff but, its nicer to have the best.
 

sam_acw

Native
Sep 2, 2005
1,081
10
41
Tyneside
The Leuku is really a practical piece of art.
The handle is usually birch - you could sand or rasp a new one to a certain shape should you need to suite easily but the standard handle is very good.
The large pommel/butt (which is for knives?) fits well in the palm of your hand so you can hold right at the back and just flick your wrist for chopping. For bearing down the solid handle is good and you could probably pound fairly hard on the end should you need to.
The blade has the advantage of having 3 different bevels - the straight edge is a standard scandi grind with the curve being quite a bit finer for shaving wood and the tip is quite thick for penetrating wood or ice.
Personally I'd find 6" a little short as one of the advantages of a longer blade is that it can be used 2 handed as a draw knife and a longer blade makes this easier.
As you can guess - I've become quite a leuku fan!
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,740
1,989
Mercia
I hear what you are saying Sam but I have longer knives. I'd use my Flyssa for the purposes you describe. I'm looking for something tough but a more manageable length, Strong enough to baton and chop, short enough to carry conveniently (might go as much as 7" but 6" seems right), thick enough to be bullet proof, light enough not to drag me over (hence not massivley long or wide). A knife tough enough to be an "only tool" when I don't want to lug an axe. With a Leuku I'd end up wanting to take a puukko too.

Red
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
Red, your avatar looks like a coconut from a distance.

your planning on using the knife for chopping with a batton? wont the false edge cause the batton to dig into the false edge, or are you going to leave the false edge fairly blunt and use thick steel stock?
 

michiel

Settler
Jun 19, 2006
578
2
36
Belgium - Herentals
although more Bark River convex than Fallkniven if you know what I mean

Red

I know. The Fallkniven (I only handled an F1) has a rather crude grind. I'd like a more grind that's less steep. For an allround bruiser knife I'd like a grind like on the Socom. The guards are indeed very big, so that's a not an option. But the grind would be great imho.

Michiel
 

weaver

Settler
Jul 9, 2006
792
7
67
North Carolina, USA
For an allround bruiser knife I'd like a grind like on the Socom. The guards are indeed very big, so that's a not an option. But the grind would be great imho.

Michiel

Guards can be easily ground smaller or removed altogether. If everything else about the knife works then buy it and grind the guards to suit yourself.
 

stuart m

Nomad
May 18, 2006
434
18
54
Sheffield
www.stuartmitchellknives.com
Knives I like....Hmmm more "aspects of" I suspect.

If we took Phil562s knife I really like the handle shape. It gives the security of grip I'd be looking for. I would like more of a plam swell on the grip though - so that the profile view looked like the Rat 7 that Terry and Weaver suggested. I would even go for a little more bottom guard if possible - not as much as the Puma but a little longer than the A1 has.

Now blade wise, I think a convex bevel similar to the Bark River or Fallkniven A2 / A1 (although more Bark River convex than Fallkniven if you know what I mean). For a point it needs to drop a touch more than that A1 - more like the Socom but with a false top edge to aid boring.

Handle materials are up in the air right now. Must have a lanyard hole of course....suggestions?

Sheath...hmm not a pouch sheath - something with a blade guard and snap strap I think. Plain and functional but very secure......again - suggestions?

Red
OK... I'm a little busy today, my sister gets married at 4:30 and I'm giving her away... I still have the speech to sort :eek:

Depending on hangover status I'll try and have a look tomorrow, see if I can come up with something that suits :)
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,740
1,989
Mercia
Red, your avatar looks like a coconut from a distance.

your planning on using the knife for chopping with a batton? wont the false edge cause the batton to dig into the false edge, or are you going to leave the false edge fairly blunt and use thick steel stock?
Shinken,

Thats a fair point! Okay scrap the swedge (that has quite a ring to it).

If you chuck any wooden balls at me though...............

Red
 

Dunelm

Forager
May 24, 2005
196
0
53
County Durham
I'm having a long distance lover affair with the Voyager from Bona Knives at the moment. www.bonaknives.com I could do without that finger spur on the handle but everything else about it is amazing. I think I'll order one...

BonaVoyager.jpg
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,740
1,989
Mercia
The choil is interesting on that Dunelm......anyone got thoughts on the whole choil / ricasso thing? I find them handy when choking up a larger knife so they may have a place here.

I have to say I quite like the formed grip (finger spur) but thats just me. The hollow grind would put me off though

Red
 

sam_acw

Native
Sep 2, 2005
1,081
10
41
Tyneside
A choil on a 6" blade is a bit of a waste of space. If you are worried about getting your hand right up onto the blade how about an integral bolster?
Have you thought about a sheepsfoot type blade shape? Just trying to think how you can get the maximum edge-weight ratio for batoning.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,740
1,989
Mercia
Hmm - you are probably right on the choil sam! okay - no choil. Got to be drop / spear point though - I have a sheeps foot on a small folder and like it there, but to be flexible I need more point on this one I think. I'm debating thickness and handle materials too.

5mm seems right - not less than 4 certainly. Reckon I could bend or berak 4mm?

Red
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
4 or 5 mil should be good i would have thought

A2 will have similar toughness to your 01 knives so it dosnt need to be excessively thick. Id ask stu.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,740
1,989
Mercia
So 4mm convex with a scandy bevel...... (thanks Ash)

Scales.

I love the look of antler....would Sambar stag be tough though? Or would wood be better? I could even be persuaded to micarta if someone can convince me of a good reason.

Red
 

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