Bandsaws - Seeking Suggestions

[Nomad]

I'm thinking of getting a bandsaw for cutting wood, plastics, and soft metals like brass and aluminium. Harder metals like steel are a possibility, but not a requirement. Don't want to spend loads of money on it, but I do want something that will cope with the variety of materials. I'm assuming that the cheaper ones are aimed at wood only, although I don't know if the limitation is availability of blades for other materials, or perhaps being able to control the speed.

A bench-top machine is preferred to floor standing. Not really sure what throat/height I need. A fair few have a 200mm throat, which sounds okay, but I find myself wondering if that's with the rip fence removed (if so, 120-150 in reality?). The next price band is 245mm throat. They seem to start at 80mm height for the cheapest/smallest ones, but I can't help thinking that I could run out of room with that. Lots at 100mm, which sounds a bit better. (There is a distinct possibility of cutting small blocks of wood, like briar blanks for making tobacco pipes, as well as other stuff like metal tubing and extrusion.)

It must be able to do clean and accurate cuts. I read a review of a cheapie on the B&Q web site, where the person reported that the blade tended to wobble around a bit, making straight cuts very difficult to do. Having said that, I'm able to fabricate parts in metal and plastic (I have a lathe and a mill), so a cheapie machine that's conducive to tweaking and upgrading is something I'd consider.

For budget, if I can get something that will cope with the range of materials, with 100mm height minimum, for around 100-150 quid, I'd be happy. If it takes 200-250 to get there, I'd consider it. Any more than that, and I think I'll be looking for compromises or maybe second hand.

Suggestions?

 

[ateallthepies]

A bandsaw is such a great machine to have I would not skimp and buy the best and biggest I could. Go for the most powerful motor, half horsepower minimum. Your right in that the fence will reduce the size of cut. Also many fences on cheaper machines are rubbish and upgrading to an aftermarket fence is a good idea.

Forget cutting hard metals, non-ferrous is OK with the correct blade but finding a machine that can cut at the different speeds wood and metal require may be hard to find. Many wood bandsaws have two speeds only.

To cut straight you will benefit from a wider blade and a well set up machine with good guides. Tuff saws blades are hard to beat and can transform a mediocre performing saw into a better one.

Make sure the saw has a flush blade insert or make a new one as when working with small cuts it's a pain when the work piece snags on the insert lip.

I have a SIP bandsaw that I bought 15 years ago from Costco for about £300. The fence on that was rubbish so I upgraded with a Kreg fence from Axminster. I tend to run a 5/8ths blade and set up the guides and tensioning properly and also set the fence to the drift angle and it cuts very straight.

Can't really recommend a particular saw. Maybe head over to UKworkshop for advice there?

Steve

 

[Nomad]

This is tempting, especially at 50 quid off...

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-hobby-series-awhbs250n-bandsaw

Not sure about the cabinet admittedly, but I can either not use it, or see if there is room for it (the intended workbench might be too tall anyway).

Been looking through the UKWorkshop forum, but it seems that the bandsaw discussions focus on wood rather than metal. I've dropped a note to Axminster to see what they say. (It strikes me that a change of pulleys and belt will acheive a slower speed if that's what's needed.)

Noted on the insert - can make that if needed.

 

[MartiniDave]

Please remember that a bandsaw can be a very dangerous thing. I see from you post you have some engineering tools so presumably know what you are doing, but after30 plus years in professional mechanical engineering, the bandsaw is the tool I'm most cautious of when using.

Dave

 

[ged]

I'm thinking of getting a bandsaw for cutting wood, plastics, and soft metals like brass and aluminium. Harder metals like steel are a possibility, but not a requirement. Don't want to spend loads of money on it ...
Suggestions?

For larger heavy duty power tools, which tend to be expensive, I'd recommend getting yourself on a few auctioneers' maiiling lists. Check out the sort of thing that each auctioneer tends to specialize in before signing up, and if you plan on bidding in person (highly recommended just for the buzz, but don't get carried away -- there's almost always another chance) it's worth getting used to how things are done by going along to a few auctions to get the feel of it before you actually do any bidding.

Over the years I've bought quite a lot of tools at auctions for not a lot of money. Typically you will get tools at a 'distressed' sale at a tenth of their market value new, or sometimes less -- even a lot less. For example most of the heavy-duty stuff that I use for bashing metal has been from auctions after companies have failed. My 600 amp oil-filled arc welding set cost me thirty quid and is still going strong after 25 years. A 2-tonne beam-mounted chain block with traveller set me back twenty quid. Obviously you need to inspect everything carefully as if you're the highest bidder then at the fall of the hammer it's yours, including all faults.

I'd echo Dave's comments about safety with a band saw.

You really need a coolant system on the saw if you're going to be cutting a lot of metal.

Have you considered a sabre saw? This is just the first link I came across - I've never used this supplier.

http://www.my-tool-shed.co.uk/Power_Tools-Saws-Reciprocating_-_Sabre_Saws/c47_157_269/index.html

It would take up a lot less space and for occasional use might be an acceptable alternative.

 

[Gary Elson]

Hi
I lecture in engineering and am a hobby woodworker and have had the Axminster bandsaw for a couple of years
Got great service from local Axminster (Nuneaton) the blade it comes with is little more than a blade to transport it with and Axminster gave me a better blade to get me going I've also purchased a couple of other blades to give me a range of widths
It's a the cheap end of the range but I use it more than my DeWalt crosscut saw and my evolution chopsaw personally wouldn't consider a sabre saw as an alternative as that's intended for a different usage.
If its well adjusted with a sharp blade it cuts straight and is powerfull enough to cut through wood which fills the total blade length when opened up
The guide is cheap and cheerful and does limit the width you can cut but that's only been a problem on a couple of occasions since I've had it
Good luck
Gary

 

[joejoe]

i am waiting for class ohlson to get theres back in stock http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Cotech-10"-Band-Saw/18-3205 best i can find for specs and price

 

[Nomad]

Thanks All.

Yes, I know they are dangerous, and I don't see how a sabre saw can be an adequate substitute for a band saw.

I went with the Axminster 250N and added one of their own-brand 14tpi 1/2" wood blades to the order. My researches suggest that the speed will need to be slowed down somewhat to cut brass (and less so for aluminium). I expect to be doing wood for a little while at first, which will give me a chance to look at the pulley arrangement to see what's possible. (It has two speeds - the ratios are about 1.1:1 and 1.6:1 - that are set by moving the belt between two pairs of ganged pulleys. The pulleys on the motor spindle can be removed. If the pulleys on the bottom wheel can also be removed, then I'll look into changing them. If not, it might be possible to run a third pair of ganged pulleys on their own axle to add a further reduction ratio of about 5:1. Once I get it, I can study it closely and take measurements.)