An entirely new knife.............
- Thread starter British Red
- Start date
British Red said:Hmmmm it needs a name but.... I think I'll pass on them.
Precision Utility Knife (PUK) its better than Field .... never mind
Red
You could sell a seperate specialist sheath with a sharpening stone, small oilbottle to protect the blade in wet enviornments and for use with the stone, some firesticks and maya wood for firelighting. Package the whole thing as the Precision Utility Knife Equipment (PUKE)!!
"Honey, I want to go bushcrafting, have you seen my PUKE?!!!"
Like to propose a slightly radical suggestion for the grind, Red. Have you considered a chisel grind?
Ive been looking at Japanese kitchen knives and Japenes wood carving knives recently, and those with a chisel grind look well suited to your stated main purposes for this knife.
It seems to me the chisel grind would make for a good slicer for food prep (flesh or veg) and for very accurate push cuts in fine woodworking. Feathering fire wood might be problematic with the flat side of the blade to the wood (as there would be no bevel to act as an angle guide). But then again, if you are ambidextrous at all, this would not be a problem, as all that would need to be done would be to hold the knife in the other hand so as to place the bevelled side of the blade on the wood.
Im a little ambidextrous, in as much as I hold a pen in my left, and use scissors in my right hand and so forth. So this chisel grind thing is appealing to me.
What say you? Id be very interested to hear what Stuart has to say about the chisel grind, too.
I know my thinking is perhaps a little lateral, but as I see it, its all grist to the mill, so to speak.
Best regards,
Paul.
Ive been looking at Japanese kitchen knives and Japenes wood carving knives recently, and those with a chisel grind look well suited to your stated main purposes for this knife.
It seems to me the chisel grind would make for a good slicer for food prep (flesh or veg) and for very accurate push cuts in fine woodworking. Feathering fire wood might be problematic with the flat side of the blade to the wood (as there would be no bevel to act as an angle guide). But then again, if you are ambidextrous at all, this would not be a problem, as all that would need to be done would be to hold the knife in the other hand so as to place the bevelled side of the blade on the wood.
Im a little ambidextrous, in as much as I hold a pen in my left, and use scissors in my right hand and so forth. So this chisel grind thing is appealing to me.
What say you? Id be very interested to hear what Stuart has to say about the chisel grind, too.
I know my thinking is perhaps a little lateral, but as I see it, its all grist to the mill, so to speak.
Best regards,
Paul.
British Red said:
I'm withholding comment until I see the finished product. I will say I have no objection to the theory and practical application so far. I would like to hold one and see how well it works.
I agree most American outdoorsmen would at first say it is too thin, light and small for camp work, but they do things differently here and require different tools.
Hi All... It's been a while but I now that blade ht'd and ready for more action... Here is the blade folowing ht...
The blade has been ht'd by the salt bath method... I will check on temps and the precise programme tomorrow and post the details here
Grinding begins tomorrow with more photographs to follow....
The blade has been ht'd by the salt bath method... I will check on temps and the precise programme tomorrow and post the details here
Grinding begins tomorrow with more photographs to follow....
Can't wait to see the finished product. I think its going to be a great knife. I like the design.
I'm in the process of making something very similar, its a cross between woodlore knife and frosts mora. I'm making one from 2mm stock (like the mora) and one from 3mm, it looks a bit like yours Red. I was thinking the same thing, i use the mora far more than my 4mm woodlore replica, as it it is such a great design etc, so decided to make a full tang version with a few of my own modifications.
So i'll watch this thread with interest...looks good so far
So i'll watch this thread with interest...looks good so far
Yes I do... I have a couple of grinding wheels that run in water, one large and one significantly smaller... I am having a bit of grief with the larger of the two so this will go on the smallerbeowolf762 said:
This is/was the larger one, it has recently been replaced....
Thank you for the quick replystuart m said:Yes I do... I have a couple of grinding wheels that run in water, one large and one significantly smaller... I am having a bit of grief with the larger of the two so this will go on the smaller
This is/was the larger one, it has recently been replaced....
it's looking good red. I'd just realised that the last blade i made, by the time i'd finished putting the bevels on it, was almost identical in shape. Then i screwed up the heat treatment (came out like a banana) and shattered it, trying to straighten it out. Dohh!
Really does seem a useful and practical shape. Just done another one and this time split the wood for the handle. Am really not having much luck this time. Ho Hum. Hope you have alot more success with this one.
By the way, any thoughts on material for the handle?
Good luck
Baggins
Really does seem a useful and practical shape. Just done another one and this time split the wood for the handle. Am really not having much luck this time. Ho Hum. Hope you have alot more success with this one.
By the way, any thoughts on material for the handle?
Good luck
Baggins
baggins said:
Ahh yes the handle is all picked out...both materials
Got to hold some things back for now though...all will be revealed!
Red
baggins said:
That is one of the reasons I like to ht them while in the thick... Can't always do it though
baggins said:
Are you pinning and rivetting or bolting?
Yes!baggins said:
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