A stainless steel Gränsfors Bruks axe

[Mr Adoby]

There is no such thing as a stainless steel axe from Gränsfors Bruk, I know. But I would like one...

I have some nice high carbon knives and other woodworking tools. But they stay in my tool shed at home, near the grind stones and near a spray can with 556 oil.

In the woods or as EDC I only use knives with stainless steel. Yes there are some bad stainless steels, but there also are some very good stainless steels. So good that for most users with normal sharpening tools and skills, they are at least as good as a carbon steel, but requires much less maintenance to keep from rusting.

I love my Gränsfors Bruks axes, but I am loathe to bring any of them with me out in the woods if I know they may become wet, or even damp, and start rusting. Usually I store them deep down in the rucksack. Or In the tool shed.

I would really like an axe that was made from GOOD stainless steel, and as nice to use as a Gränsfors Bruks axe. But as far as I know that is something that doesn't exist. I know there are some stainless steel axes, but I suspect they are far from being as nice to work with as a GB axe.

Or do someone know about a stainless steel axe that is as nice to use as a high end carbon steel axe, like the GB axes?

 

[Shewie]

Would Cegga be able to do something for you?

 

[dancan]

How about this one ??

http://www.mcgowanmfg.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=3

 

[Jared]

An axe head having surface rust is probably the least of your worries if you use an axe an appreciable amount of time.

 

[petrochemicals]

estwing do stainless hatchets, some people seem to like them.

 

[Samon]

I don't understand why your axe rusts so fast mate..

My GB didn't rust.. and I never made much of an effort to clean it. And I used mine regularly to pound stakes into wet earth and cut loads of damp wood. I think the most I done was wipe the wet mud off the blade with my leg before stuffing it back in the sheath.

I kept (past tense, got rid! lol ) the edge nice and shiny just from stropping. I probably oiled the blade twice a year, and only because I was bored. Infact other than sharpening/stropping the only efforf I made with the axe was to wax the handle to give extra grip as I work alot in the wet.



I noticed that Condor make some axes in stainless steel, their products are genrally considered pretty decent but the steel is 440 so won't be fancy and may be brittle..

 

[Perrari]

Never had a problem with my GB axes rusting, and personally cant see the point in owning them unless you use them in the woods as they are a pleasure to use.
I just clean the head in soapy water with a nail brush when I get home to remove any sap & dirt then apply a thin layer of oil before storing them.
As long as you look after them and don't store them for months on end in a wet environment you should be fine. Same goes for carbon knives.

 

[woof]

How about this one ??

http://www.mcgowanmfg.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=3

That looks nice !

Rob

 

[HillBill]

You miss the main reason why axes are carbon steel. The differential temper. Harder edge, softer eye area. Not really possible with stainless due to how they need to be heat treated. If you have a stainless axe, it would likely be the same temper throughout the entire head, so you would either get a soft edge, or a hard eye. Neither are desirable qualities in an axe.

 

[nic.]

This seems odd to me Mark- why couldn't you differentially temper ( or differentially harden which is I think just as common on axes) stainless steel?

Stainless steel encompasses a vast range of steels but all the ones I have tried are expensive and really difficult to forge, this is I think one of the reasons that axes are made of carbon not stainless. The other reason is I think that rusting shouldn't be a major problem with a forged axe, (maybe it would be on a polished one, but forged ones are all I have any experience in ) also if you are consistently getting an axe wet and leaving it wet I think you will eventually have problem with the handle coming loose as it swells and shinks, so unless you don't have a wooden handle a stainless steel axe wouldn't really be much of an advantage, maybe it could be less safe.

 

[Big Stu 12]

Sorry miss the point of having an axe if your not going to use it for more then sitting in a shed..... you may as well sell it, and let some one else have the benift and the fun at all times...

 

[Hibrion]

I've used my Gransfors is all types of weather and never had a problem with rust. It's been soaked in rain and dropped in snow and I can't say I've ever noticed rust on it.

 

[HillBill]

I suppose you could just quench the edge, didn't think about differential hardening tbh.

This seems odd to me Mark- why couldn't you differentially temper ( or differentially harden which is I think just as common on axes) stainless steel?

Stainless steel encompasses a vast range of steels but all the ones I have tried are expensive and really difficult to forge, this is I think one of the reasons that axes are made of carbon not stainless. The other reason is I think that rusting shouldn't be a major problem with a forged axe, (maybe it would be on a polished one, but forged ones are all I have any experience in ) also if you are consistently getting an axe wet and leaving it wet I think you will eventually have problem with the handle coming loose as it swells and shinks, so unless you don't have a wooden handle a stainless steel axe wouldn't really be much of an advantage, maybe it could be less safe.

 

[Mr Adoby]

Since I heat my house with wood, and the tool shed also doubles as the boiler room, and is next to my roofed outdoor storage of firewood, my axes see plenty of use. Also I only have to take about ten steps from my tool shed to be out in the woods, if I choose the right direction. Another ten steps and I have trouble seeing my house, at least when there are leaves on the trees.

I have to admit that I haven't had any big problems with rust on my GB axes. Especially since I try to avoid letting them get wet or damp. Usually easy to remove any rust when needed. But I think I have been spoiled by having nice stainless steel knives that I can let become wet or damp without any concerns. Like 12C27 Moras and EKA or VG10 or 3G from Fällkniven. And I would like similar convenience for an axe.

Some of my stainless knives use laminated steel to get both edge retention and strength. Shouldn't it be possible to do the same with an axe head? Or is it too difficult to shape the axe head with laminated stainless steel?

 

[ozzy1977]

Probably too expensive more than anything.

 

[General Strike]

^^ I think there's a 'birth of a tool' video where you see a guy do exactly that. I guess that the issue may arise in finding a Carbon steel/Stainless Steel combination that can be welded that way. Someone with more metallurgical knowledge can no doubt clarify this.

 

[OneGear]

Most axes have a coating or patina, either applied after finishing or left over from forging, that protects the surface from rust. Regardless, rust isn't a huge issue. I have kitchen knifes that will develop small rust spots over years, and wrapping them in a rag soaked with vinegar removes the spots with no damage to the blade. The same method works with rusty axe heads.

Additionally, you can force a rust-proof patina on carbon steel by applying vinegar until the metal surface takes on a black color.

There's just no need for a stainless steel axe.

 

[mountainm]

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113945
Coincidence? Anyhow, there it is.

 

[Shewie]

I have a little surface rust on my GB's but it only adds to the character I think, it gets cleaned off and then oiled at home so it's more of a patina than actual damage.

I find storing them without the mask on helps too, even if it's just for a couple of days after a trip so the leather can completely dry.

 

[Shewie]

How about this one ??

http://www.mcgowanmfg.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=3

:why:

That Sportaxe is a bit tasty