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Thanks Mr Dazzler, helpful info:-D. I didn't think of robin, which is a bit daft as I bought a carving hatchet and crook knife from him a while ago! I have a greenhouse so would that be good for drying something like ash or too hot and likely to crack it? I've fit a small forest axe handle...

Does anyone have a recommendation for a supplier of wood for making a couple hatchet handles and rough up some carving blanks in the Sheffield or Mansfield area. Was ideally looking for some ash for the hatchet handles, not too sure what wood for bowl / spoon blanks? I'm guessing it needs to...

I'd 2nd the esee 6, really nice knife. I got the molle sheath back and pouch to screw on the sheath back and you can carry a fire steel, tinder and sharpener all on the sheath. Really nice handle shape too

best test I've found is to go for a night ride on a cold evening, then sit outside a pub (drinking at 2 or 3 pints of cold liquid in the name of gear testing) in your damp riding gear and put your warm jacket over the top of your riding gear. you'll cool down very quickly sat still in damp base...

Thanks for the explanation :-)

Will a cotton jacket keep water out without some sort of treatment?

what about retreating after washing? Surplus place I got my windproof smock from said to use fabsil rather than nikwax wash in stuff. what about waxing it like a barbour jacket?

Are you wanting a jacket you can wear in the rain? Down is not the best unless under a waterproof jacket. If you're camping then you'll struggle to dry a down jacket in a tent or bivvi. Primaloft should dry much faster than down

do you mean the micro baffle down jacket? if so then you're paying for the 'ultra light' type gear point. Is it really important to you how small it packs down and how little it weighs? A decent synthetic insulting jacket would probably be as warm as that, but bulkier and heavier to carry...

It was on sale with quite a chunk off, I wouldn't have paid the 80 quid rrp for it !

cheers :-)

Sounds like a fun evening with the chemistry set :-) What do I do, just gently heat the waxes in the turps until its all blends in to a paste/cream? Any suggestions for proportions/percentages and suppliers for the materials? cheers Andy

I'm after some advice on waxing polycotton clothing like fjallraven, combats etc. I've bought a Fjallraven g1000 shirt and it's a great bit of kit. I'm after something I can use around a fire, while working with wood / thorny branches etc that wont get ripped to shreds and this seems a good...

cheers fellas, just need to go and have a nights camping where i can use the axe for some firewood processing :-)

updated thread here http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88453&p=1067031#post1067031

Following on from this thread http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86753 where you all gave me some very useful tips, I have finally got around to fitting a new helve/handle to the axe head. The axe head has been ground down to (roughly) even bevels as I think it used to be a one...

been having a play about with an old haft I had from another axe. The eye was larger on that axe so I've had a go at filing/rasping it down to fit. I've got a new handle coming so wanted some practice. It's a bit rotten at the top so I'm not going to use it on anything like this. I did a...

They look really nice, a good alternative to hardshell trousers in snowy or warm/wet conditions. Are they camp fire safe, no issues with sparks/embers burning holes in them like some synthetic fabrics?

I've had a closer look at it today, and it possibly looks as if it's a single sided bevel that has been sharpened up on both sides (unevenly). When I found the axe the head was heavily rusted all over and I wire brushed and sanded everything down. I ran a file over the bevels to clean them up...

Not sure my metalworking skills are up to turning it into a single sided bevel, how would I go about that? Photos will be taken during the sharpening/rehandling/finishing process, just not sure whether to polish up the axe head or keep the 'used' look