World's smallest and lightest fan forced TLUD stove.

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Neumo

Full Member
Jul 16, 2009
1,675
0
West Sussex
That is an interesting little stove. It may be too modern for some but I may have a go at making one as I plan to use a small PC fan as a blower for a small forge that I can use out in the field, so a bit of carefull design could lead to me be able to do both. I like the idea of paper pellets as fuel.
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
Thanks for your comments guys. :)

I plan to use a small PC fan as a blower for a small forge that I can use out in the field, so a bit of carefull design could lead to me be able to do both.

Ill post another vid soon with the forge attachment. It sits on top of the stove and burns 'owt.
The tlud is too small to burn free fuel really, but with the forge attachment, its been a really flexible system. The stove body makes a good ash catcher.
 

slammer187

Nomad
Jul 11, 2009
411
0
Ireland
Thanks for your comments guys. :)



Ill post another vid soon with the forge attachment. It sits on top of the stove and burns 'owt.
The tlud is too small to burn free fuel really, but with the forge attachment, its been a really flexible system. The stove body makes a good ash catcher.

Can't wait to see the next video! :)
Does the forge attachment effect the cleanness of the burn?
I can't believe I only came across this thread on BCUK now...the post over in HF have distracted me :lmao:
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
The forge attachment is a proper sooty affair, It soots worse than Buncefield. :)
It needs some work to improve the dirty burn, but its so easy to light and use, I think the soot is worth it.

It's an empty camping gaz tin that I've cut the bottom off of, that sits on the top of the tlud body upside down. The top of the gas tin is convex, so it sits well on the tlud and creates a reasonable seal. It also allows a piece of circular gauze to sit in the bottom, leaving a good gap from the burning fuel to the stove body.

By chance, the gas can is a perfect shape for this and seals at up to a 15 degree angle so it works on slanted ground.
I'm not a big fan of making stove parts from empty steel tins becuase they rust through quite quickly, but the gas can shows very little sign of rusting after about 14 hours use, a testament to the quality of the metal used in gas cans.

I'll post up soon, and I'm glad you liked the Tlud Slammer :)
 

slammer187

Nomad
Jul 11, 2009
411
0
Ireland
The forge attachment is a proper sooty affair, It soots worse than Buncefield. :)
It needs some work to improve the dirty burn, but its so easy to light and use, I think the soot is worth it.

It's an empty camping gaz tin that I've cut the bottom off of, that sits on the top of the tlud body upside down. The top of the gas tin is convex, so it sits well on the tlud and creates a reasonable seal. It also allows a piece of circular gauze to sit in the bottom, leaving a good gap from the burning fuel to the stove body.

By chance, the gas can is a perfect shape for this and seals at up to a 15 degree angle so it works on slanted ground.
I'm not a big fan of making stove parts from empty steel tins becuase they rust through quite quickly, but the gas can shows very little sign of rusting after about 14 hours use, a testament to the quality of the metal used in gas cans.

I'll post up soon, and I'm glad you liked the Tlud Slammer :)

Cool I can't wait to see it!
Have you thought about adding an inner can to the forge to make a sierra zip type set-up?
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
I'd thought of a double wall, but initially dismissed it because of the extra weight.

It's good idea though slammer, and it seems like it may be worth exploring more. I am going to redesign the forge tin, and try insulating it with mica to cut down on the smoke, but I don't think it will make a big difference to the soot levels. The problem is there is very little time for the smoke to mix with air before it hits the pot, causing the sooting. The only way of substantially improving this is make a much taller forge tin, preheating the air supply (a'la zip stove) or supplying the forge with some secondary air-all these options will add substantial weight though. At the moment, the forge attachment only weighs 42g, making the whole setup weigh less than a bushbuddy-this is my target weight.
 

Gailainne

Life Member
Nice one T glad you sorted out a video, your combustion chamber, could you give some detail on the construction, a cut away sketch would be brilliant, does it have primary and secondary holes?

On the wind shield, on reading up on 3rd world applications, the use of a shield to scrape the excess heat up the side of the cooking pot significantly increases efficiency.

Cheers

Stephen
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
Good to see you back on the stoves, Stephen. :)

The 'Cult of the black goo' pulls strong.


No probs on the dims, Ill post them up.

BTW, I found some tegs from a site in america that work up to 400 oC at $8 each and are optimised for power gen, they could be just the ticket. :bigok:
 
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Gailainne

Life Member
I bought a few from the Mutr site, haven't tried them out yet, not actually tegs but they seem to think they will be ok, at the price, its worth a try.

Interested in the TEG's from the states, so much more usable then the 150 deg max ones I've found so far, is there a minimum order?, I'd appreciate a link.

Read the comments on Youtube, the air mix ratio of 5:1 is interesting, as 6:1 is the norm quoted, however that's on unpowered stoves, does your stove work without a fan? I know its doubtful just wondered if you had tried it :eek:.

Increasing the air mix ratio may cut down on the soot when using the forge what do you think?, or adding mixing holes to the forges side walls.

A pound shop I will go:lmao: looking forward to seeing the dimensions, really cool stove, I didn't realise before how small and compact it was before. nice one mate.
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
Interested in the TEG's from the states, so much more usable then the 150 deg max ones I've found so far, is there a minimum order?, I'd appreciate a link.

Minimum order is 5, I am up for a split if you want? Ill dig the link out coz I've forgotten it.

Read the comments on Youtube, the air mix ratio of 5:1 is interesting, as 6:1 is the norm quoted, however that's on unpowered stoves, does your stove work without a fan? I know its doubtful just wondered if you had tried it

5 to 1 is the stoichiometric ratio for the reaction.
Tom Reed et al found that any excess air over this reduced the heating power from the flame. Any under this ratio, produced incomplete combustion of the woodgas. Its getting this ratio in a working stove thats the tricky bit. I started with the right hole sizes and a large dollop of guesswork.

The bushbuddy uses a ~ 3 -1 ratio-because the primary air is not being forced through the fuel by a fan, the resistance of the fuel to the primary air is increased, compared to the secodary air, which is unimpeeded in a natural draft stove. This is why the bushbuddy smokes more for some users-the more tightly packed the fuel, the higher the ratio of primary to secondary volumetric flow.

My tlud stove doesn't work at all without the fan, It goes out in 30 seconds.:(

Increasing the air mix ratio may cut down on the soot when using the forge what do you think?, or adding mixing holes to the forges side walls.

I'm going to try it. I think the flame will simply burst out the holes. Slammers double wall suggestion looks the most promising, but after the holes, im going to lengthen the slits in the forge.

A pound shop I will go

I've been searching for more of these flasks for over a year now, they are perfect. The stainless is soooo thin. Please let me know if you find any, mine came from poundland, and hold a stupidly small amount of liquid. All the other flasks weigh a ton compared to these.

I'd start selling them if I could find enough of them.
I've been in contact with Poundland a few times, but no joy yet. :)
 

slammer187

Nomad
Jul 11, 2009
411
0
Ireland
Watched the full video and well done...did you see my comment about the centre column idea on your first forge upload?
Oh and I ran my TLOD can stove today...With a few modifications I can now run it on wood, I've totally eliminated soot and I have minimal resin output...I'll try and get a video out soon :)
I really want to add a fan to it but ATM I don't think it's necessary!
 

Gailainne

Life Member
I think you'll find 6:1 is the stoichiometric ratio for wood, but then as you suggested; what kind of wood, what's the water content, how tight or loosely is it packed, I've noticed a lot of gasifier stoves use a means to vary the air flow, presumably to try for a clean burn, there was a very neat design for burning old chopsticks, (from japan :rolleyes:) which not only used a variable air flow device but also if I remember correctly a centre chimney, found it; here.

I tried a variable airflow on one of my gasifier stoves, it was very simple, basically another can, a lot smaller in height, split and the same holes drilled in it as the original, simply rotating it slightly changed the air flow. To be frank didn't see much difference, but I was using twigs, not a consistent fuel size like pellets.

I think one of the great benefits of using a fan is; it will work, with minimum fuss and faffing about, and at the end of a long day when you want fed and a hot drink that's what your after.

There's a few various type pound shops around, I'll have a trawl at the weekend see what I can pick up.

I'm up for a buy on the TEG's, I'd probably take 4, maybe more, I seem to kill them :eek: very easily, maybe should stop using the 1000 deg C torch on them :lmao:

I meant to ask is this the new fan you were talking about on hammock forums ?, it sounds powerful, did you source them here?

Cheers

Stephen
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
I think one of the great benefits of using a fan is; it will work, with minimum fuss and faffing about, and at the end of a long day when you want fed and a hot drink that's what your after.
Exactly my view on it, I like coffee, I like it quick and I like the roaring jet sound too.


There's a few various type pound shops around, I'll have a trawl at the weekend see what I can pick up.

Good luck ;)

I meant to ask is this the new fan you were talking about on hammock forums ?, it sounds powerful, did you source them here?

Its a Sunon KDE0504 V2, sunon do a V1 which sucks more power and gives more air but I thought it would suck power too much-its 280mA. Paste the model no into google for the best price. I got mine from rs components I think. Farnells are cheap, but its a £20 minimum order.

I think you'll find 6:1 is the stoichiometric ratio for wood, but then as you suggested; what kind of wood, what's the water content, how tight or loosely is it packed, I've noticed a lot of gasifier stoves use a means to vary the air flow, presumably to try for a clean burn, there was a very neat design for burning old chopsticks, (from japan ) which not only used a variable air flow device but also if I remember correctly a centre chimney, found it; here.

I am sure you are wrong, but less sure than yesterday:) I am prepared to eat some stove if I'm wrong though. I got this value from bioenergy lists-I have not done the calcs myself, but its burned in my brain at this value. I have not checked your links yet, post back soon. I have an idea for a controllable air path for my stove and Ill post that with the dims which I've not got yet either-work has been crazy and I've been sorting out a hit and run I was caught by this week.

How does this hole ratio work...I usually just calculate my hole size from the diameter and height of my firebox

Whats the calc that you do, Slammer?
 

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