Which oil do you use
- Thread starter Jays
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Raw (food grade) linseed will indeed harden off in the wood - as it oxidizes (dries out) it polymerises providing increased strength. The other good thing is that as it dries it doesn't shrink so it continues to fill the pores of the wood. So it is a really good wood finish.
However, the reason why I wasnt recommending it is because to does have a very short shelf life - just a few weeks even if refrigerated. Fresh, linseed is a thin oil and penetrates easily. However, if it's already oxidising (going rancid), then the polymerisation is happening before you apply it so, even if it does not seem much thicker, the molecular size is much larger and it won't penetrate anywhere near as well. So the oil will sit more on the surface plus it will smell and taste unpleasant.
So, if you are prepared to go and buy fresh linseed oil as you need it, then it is great but if you're going to have a bottle stuck in the workshop for months on end, then I wouldn't use it - that was my reservation given that that is exactly what most people tend to do.
Olive oil is a much more viscous oil - if you apply it without heating, it will give a nice finish but won't penetrate very far- so heating is a good idea to yield a long lasting, food safe treatment that won't smell or taste rancid. It won't polymerize though so it won't strengthen the work piece if that is what you are after.
However, the reason why I wasnt recommending it is because to does have a very short shelf life - just a few weeks even if refrigerated. Fresh, linseed is a thin oil and penetrates easily. However, if it's already oxidising (going rancid), then the polymerisation is happening before you apply it so, even if it does not seem much thicker, the molecular size is much larger and it won't penetrate anywhere near as well. So the oil will sit more on the surface plus it will smell and taste unpleasant.
So, if you are prepared to go and buy fresh linseed oil as you need it, then it is great but if you're going to have a bottle stuck in the workshop for months on end, then I wouldn't use it - that was my reservation given that that is exactly what most people tend to do.
Olive oil is a much more viscous oil - if you apply it without heating, it will give a nice finish but won't penetrate very far- so heating is a good idea to yield a long lasting, food safe treatment that won't smell or taste rancid. It won't polymerize though so it won't strengthen the work piece if that is what you are after.
And whats your opinion on what Im using Herbalist? Flaxseed oil for pigeons? [I drank a bit] Ive also got flaxseed oil for my dogs meals.
I used walnut oil at one point, but ran out and couldnt find any more.
And I used to think olive oil made it rancid, never hard of the baking it in method before.
Never heard of boiling spoons in milk either.
I used walnut oil at one point, but ran out and couldnt find any more.
And I used to think olive oil made it rancid, never hard of the baking it in method before.
Never heard of boiling spoons in milk either.
Hey Dave,
flaxseed and linseed oil are the same thing, just different names so freshness is the he key esp if you're giving it to your dogs. Fresh its a great antioxidant, mopping up free radicals so it'll be great for the hounds but after a few weeks it will be stale unless it's unopened and sealed under nitrogen and so will be of little value. I even read somewhere that once oxidised it could be carcinogenic but I didn't see the scientific evidence and certainly wouldn't be worried about the exposure I'd get from a treated spoon. If you want a longer lasting product for the dogs, you could get whole linseed/flaxseed and just grind and add it to their food as needed. The seeds don't keep long term but they do have a much longer shelf life than the oil.
Yes - I've not heard about boiling spoons in milk either. Makes sense I suppose as casein has been used as a glue so I guess it seals the pores of the wood. Do you end up with a varnish like finish Mr Fenna? I'd be interested to see an example if you've got any photos. How long do you boil in the milk for? Thanks for the idea.
flaxseed and linseed oil are the same thing, just different names so freshness is the he key esp if you're giving it to your dogs. Fresh its a great antioxidant, mopping up free radicals so it'll be great for the hounds but after a few weeks it will be stale unless it's unopened and sealed under nitrogen and so will be of little value. I even read somewhere that once oxidised it could be carcinogenic but I didn't see the scientific evidence and certainly wouldn't be worried about the exposure I'd get from a treated spoon. If you want a longer lasting product for the dogs, you could get whole linseed/flaxseed and just grind and add it to their food as needed. The seeds don't keep long term but they do have a much longer shelf life than the oil.
Yes - I've not heard about boiling spoons in milk either. Makes sense I suppose as casein has been used as a glue so I guess it seals the pores of the wood. Do you end up with a varnish like finish Mr Fenna? I'd be interested to see an example if you've got any photos. How long do you boil in the milk for? Thanks for the idea.
It is a long established method - it has also been mentioned in other threads here....
I boil for up to 1/2 hour but for big items that I cannot get into my biggest pot I just repeatedly fill the item with boiling milk. You do get a slight "varnish" finish but the casein goes deep into the wood. A Flaxseed oil wipe and the item looks great!
