When to sharpen tools?

[THOaken]

My Japanese Ice Bear King Combination waterstone and "nagura" stones finally arrived this morning and I was eager to get to sharpening so I could continue on my array of carving and craft projects, but it occurred to me... Do they really need sharpened? All of my blades still perform the paper cutting test rather well, so it's fair to say I'm not quite sure whether or not to bother with sharpening right now. I don't want to dull the blades if my technique is wrong.

Should I just carry on with my projects and then see about sharpening them later? Is the general consensus that you sharpen once they can no longer cut paper?

Also, just a side question, how would I go about polishing and generally cleaning my blades? They are rather dirty.

Thanks very much.

 

[rancid badger]

Sharpen them when they're blunt.

If they don't bite into the wood, they need attention.

 

[ammo]

It depends on the blade. The grind and the steel. The paper cut test is fine for woodwork, you want it razor sharp to skinning/food prep. Scotchbright cleans carbon blades well.

 

[Mesquite]

If they're still very sharp then all that's needed really is to maintain the edge by stropping, no need for the stones at all.

Use them when you feel the blade is duller than usual, but if you keep stropping regularly then you'll not need to use the stones that often.

As for cleaning them stropping will help get do that to a degree but I've used the nagura stone to work up some slurry on the finest grit stone and then rubbed that on with my finger to clean up a blade.

 

[Clouston98]

Just strop them for now, as for cleaning a bit of meths and then a good wash and dry then oil always works for me .

 

[THOaken]

Thanks everyone. I was going to sharpen my tools first before going on to other projects, but it doesn't really seem like they need it right now actually. I recall someone on the forum saying that I should learn tool maintenance before going on to do more projects, and he's right, but my equipment is still quite new and sharp.

 

[Mesquite]

Thanks everyone. I was going to sharpen my tools first before going on to other projects, but it doesn't really seem like they need it right now actually. I recall someone on the forum saying that I should learn tool maintenance before going on to do more projects, and he's right, but my equipment is still quite new and sharp.

They may not seem like they need it right now but you'll be surprised at the difference between how sharp they were when you first got them and now that you've used them.

Tool maintenance starts as soon as you've bought the item and started to use it. Stropping is a good habit to get into so you know that your blades are always sharp

 

[THOaken]

They may not seem like they need it right now but you'll be surprised at the difference between how sharp they were when you first got them and now that you've used them.

Tool maintenance starts as soon as you've bought the item and started to use it. Stropping is a good habit to get into so you know that your blades are always sharp

I'll strop them now. Thanks.

 

[THOaken]

So I can just use the back of a leather belt and maybe give it 50 or so strokes?

 

[Mesquite]

So I can just use the back of a leather belt and maybe give it 50 or so strokes?

That's good for a start though if it's a proper scandi grind then lay the belt on a table top or something similar so it supports it whilst stropping.

Ideally, in the long run, you should look at making a proper dedicated strop which you can use a stropping compound with

As for strokes, don't get caught up with numbers... it's as many as needed really.

 

[THOaken]

That's good for a start though if it's a proper scandi grind then lay the belt on a table top or something similar so it supports it whilst stropping.

Ideally, in the long run, you should look at making a proper dedicated strop which you can use a stropping compound with

As for strokes, don't get caught up with numbers... it's as many as needed really.

I've just tried standing on the belt at one end and holding the other and it works quite well. I think it has actually improved the edge a bit and I didn't think it would. I really don't think I need to use the waterstones right now as these knives can definitely still cut through paper so easily.

On to my winter craft projects then!

 

[gowersponger]

ive got a ice bear jap stone I really like it you wont need to polish the blade the nagura stone will rub any unwanted marks of your blade . always remember to strop your blade after using the stone it make a hell of a difference

 

[Mesquite]

I've just tried standing on the belt at one end and holding the other and it works quite well. I think it has actually improved the edge a bit and I didn't think it would. I really don't think I need to use the waterstones right now as these knives can definitely still cut through paper so easily.

Glad to hear you think it made a difference

One problem doing it that way is no matter how tight you pull the belt it will always bow as you strop.

What this does is alter the geometry of the edge and slowly over time as you keep stropping you change it from a flat grind to a convex edge.

That's why I suggested making a dedicated stropping board, plus the fact it saves your belt from getting mucked up

 

[HillBill]

Little and often, Keeping it sharp is easier than letting it go blunt, then resharpening.

 

[HillBill]

The best stropping boards are curved, not flat, like the outside of a wheel with thin leather. You don't convex the edge then, as the knife trails off the strop naturally at the apex of the curve, rather than your wrist twisting a bit at the end of the stroke and adding the convex.

 

[Mesquite]

The best stropping boards are curved, not flat, like the outside of a wheel with thin leather. You don't convex the edge then, as the knife trails off the strop naturally at the apex of the curve, rather than your wrist twisting a bit at the end of the stroke and adding the convex.

Now that's interesting... hadn't thought of that but it's pretty obvious now you've said it.

What sort of curve are you talking about Mark?

 

[HillBill]

Top third of a circle, car wheel size..ish About 18" in length would be ideal, though the bigger the better really.. you have a side for each side of the blade then. makes a knife much sharper than a standard strop... like the spydie i re ground for you.

Now that's interesting... hadn't thought of that but it's pretty obvious now you've said it.

What sort of curve are you talking about Mark?

 

[JohnC]

That's interesting about the curve, ive got some old barrel staves, so I might try using one of those..

 

[dwardo]

Before you think you need to. Its easy to forget how much easier a sharp tool works.