This really depends on the tool but for knives I typically zero them out. For a woods knife I typically use a zero scandi. For a camp blade or chopper a zero convex but these seem to be harder and harder to find so you typically have to remove the secondary yourself. Most of mi whittling tools are what I guess you would call a nearly full flat zero grind. If not then maybe an extremely high scandi. Hunting and fishing blades keep their secondary and are full flat as I have found a zero edge to be too delicate when working on game. Touch a bone and you have a chip/roll.
Now, stepping inside we can take a look at what I use in the house. Most of my kitchen knives are Japanese and come with either a slight hollow or convex to the blade road, which I later remove. In the end they tend to be like a high scandi as I flatten the blade road which puts them at about 20-24 degrees inclusive, zero ground. This is not something I would recommend doing if you do not treat your knives like a princess. Aggressive chopping, torquing of any kind, use on frozen foods etc will lead to chipping in these knives. They are around 62-64 RC and quite delicate.
There are two things that I do not modify, typically. The first is an outdoor tool and that is an axe. I like them to be robust because unlike many I use them only for chopping and splitting or very rarely shaping but never carving. The second thing is straight razors. These keep their hollow. Even a so called full wedge seems to have a wee bit of hollowing to it. Maybe I don't have a true wedge, IDK, it could be a near wedge. Either way, as I use them around my neck I have decided to keep them the way I know that they work, lol.
Long story short, I guess I would have to say that I mostly use zero ground convex and scandi blades.
