Two decades evidence of Birch tapping.

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JonathanD

Ophiological Genius
Sep 3, 2004
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Stourton,UK
Twenty years ago I posted about birch tapping, and what was then for me a new method with an auger, demijon plug and tubing. This was influenced by Ray Mears Bushcraft Four Seasons episode. Before that I just used a knife tip and a very small shaved stick jammed into the cut to direct the sap into a cup tied to the trunk . Because Ray used the more aggressive auger method, and explained it as harmless if you sealed the hole, I thought it was harmless. But he never explained the best wood or state of wood to seal the hole. It was great method as you get litres of sap with that, and in a very short time period.

Five years after that I posted on here the evidence of pretty much all the trees I’d tapped that way had died. During those years I’ve found that the important part, is how you seal that hole. Ray wasn’t specific. So I used birch and then cork as I found birch leaked as it was very porous and loose fibre. Then I used hard dead wood that was sealed with hot wax. It was hit and miss, but still more effective than anything else. But after the revelation that I’d killed many trees. I stopped using that method completely. And I still urge people to not use it. Ever.

Today I found a tree that I tapped twenty years ago. Sadly, the wind had pushed it over. But amazingly, the hole was healed. The only evidence in the bark. I’d used an old boiled champagne cork. But they’re had completely healed over from that massive auger excavation. It’s not a method I’ll use ever again as the results are mostly negative. But it is amazing to see evidence of a younger me finding out how much destruction we can reap with the best of intentions.

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I’ve long since gone back to the old ways. And sometimes you need two cups to catch the unpredictable flow :banghead2:

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Big auger holes are bad, I tapped some trees with a 10mm drill bit before covid and they are still alive, I sealed the holes with a plug of beeswax. Will go take a photo of them.
The sap flows not very fast from a 10ml hole

Many things come into effect when tapping large holes. Prevailing wind direction, sun exposure, weather conditions when tapping and immediately afterwards, and location of the trees. Far too many variables to take into account for what is in effect, a bit of fun and a small drink. I’ve done quite a few 10mm holes and plugged them with boiled corks used for laboratory test tubes. They have been fine after 13 years now. But don’t yield much more than a simple sharp knife point piercing done at the right time in a strong tree.
 
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Many things come into effect when tapping large holes. Prevailing wind direction, sun exposure, weather conditions when tapping and immediately afterwards, and location of the trees. Far too many variables to take into account for what is in effect, a bit of fun and a small drink. I’ve done quite a few 10mm holes and plugged them with boiled corks used for laboratory test tubes. They have been fine after 13 years now. But don’t yield much more than a simple sharp knife point piercing done at the right time in a strong tree.
Yes agreed. It’s a handy thing to have done, and to know how to do, but outside of a survival situation not _really_ necessary to do continually tbh.
 
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Although I have not tapped Birch trees in years I had always used the Auger method. All the trees are still alive - except two that were crushed by other trees falling during Storm Darragh! I always sealed the holes with corks.
 
I wonder if it's different in more northern parts of the world where it gets colder and the air is drier. It tends to be damp in the UK and parts of winter can be quite mild - e.g. mid teens last week here in Kent - which is ideal for fungal growth.
 
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I’m sure that climate and location play a massive part. All of these dead trees occurred in the same woodland that is quite damp and exposed to high winds and driving rain. It is also on a massive exposed slope. It’s the only woodland where pretty much every tree has succumbed after tapping. In a drier flatter less exposed woodland, they’re all fine.
 
i experimented with the auger tapping myself, since I have a lot of mature birch trees and 15-17 years ago had the time to to that sort of thing. I tried dry wood and fresh wood, wax, plastic, and rubber bungs. The best success for survival was amongst the trees that I just left the holes open (or the plug had fallen out). It makes sense when you think about it. In nature a branch often breaks off and the tree weeps a bit before healing up (like we do when we get cut!). If you plug the hole, then you are sealing in any bacteria and other nasties. There is no chance of a birch tree bleeding to death from an auger hole ;)
 
i experimented with the auger tapping myself, since I have a lot of mature birch trees and 15-17 years ago had the time to to that sort of thing. I tried dry wood and fresh wood, wax, plastic, and rubber bungs. The best success for survival was amongst the trees that I just left the holes open (or the plug had fallen out). It makes sense when you think about it. In nature a branch often breaks off and the tree weeps a bit before healing up (like we do when we get cut!). If you plug the hole, then you are sealing in any bacteria and other nasties. There is no chance of a birch tree bleeding to death from an auger hole ;)
That makes sense and is interesting. Is there any more information available on what you said Dave? x
 
Twenty years ago I posted about birch tapping, and what was then for me a new method with an auger, demijon plug and tubing. This was influenced by Ray Mears Bushcraft Four Seasons episode. Before that I just used a knife tip and a very small shaved stick jammed into the cut to direct the sap into a cup tied to the trunk . Because Ray used the more aggressive auger method, and explained it as harmless if you sealed the hole, I thought it was harmless. But he never explained the best wood or state of wood to seal the hole. It was great method as you get litres of sap with that, and in a very short time period.

Five years after that I posted on here the evidence of pretty much all the trees I’d tapped that way had died. During those years I’ve found that the important part, is how you seal that hole. Ray wasn’t specific. So I used birch and then cork as I found birch leaked as it was very porous and loose fibre. Then I used hard dead wood that was sealed with hot wax. It was hit and miss, but still more effective than anything else. But after the revelation that I’d killed many trees. I stopped using that method completely. And I still urge people to not use it. Ever.

Today I found a tree that I tapped twenty years ago. Sadly, the wind had pushed it over. But amazingly, the hole was healed. The only evidence in the bark. I’d used an old boiled champagne cork. But they’re had completely healed over from that massive auger excavation. It’s not a method I’ll use ever again as the results are mostly negative. But it is amazing to see evidence of a younger me finding out how much destruction we can reap with the best of intentions.

View attachment 93720View attachment 93721


I’ve long since gone back to the old ways. And sometimes you need two cups to catch the unpredictable flow :banghead2:

View attachment 93723View attachment 93724
Is that a cotton string to soak up the fluid to drip or a synthetic one for it to run down and drip? thanks x
 
i experimented with the auger tapping myself, since I have a lot of mature birch trees and 15-17 years ago had the time to to that sort of thing. I tried dry wood and fresh wood, wax, plastic, and rubber bungs. The best success for survival was amongst the trees that I just left the holes open (or the plug had fallen out). It makes sense when you think about it. In nature a branch often breaks off and the tree weeps a bit before healing up (like we do when we get cut!). If you plug the hole, then you are sealing in any bacteria and other nasties. There is no chance of a birch tree bleeding to death from an auger hole ;)

That makes perfect sense. The tree in my picture obviously had the plug fall out.
 
If you think about a maple dropper tip, the diameter is only about 8mm. It makes far more sense to take a few of those with you and just let the holes do their thing once you’ve finished. That is if your thinking of collecting anything more than a cup full as you say.
 
Great thread!
It's interesting it have such a great timespan to compare, I remember the early days of the forum and Ray on TV talking about tapping Birch, lots of people tried it.
There seems to be a compromise between hole size and yeld, and hole size and wound on the tree.
I'm interested to hear more from people who have been tapping for a long time... goodjob
 
Great thread!
It's interesting it have such a great timespan to compare, I remember the early days of the forum and Ray on TV talking about tapping Birch, lots of people tried it.
There seems to be a compromise between hole size and yeld, and hole size and wound on the tree.
I'm interested to hear more from people who have been tapping for a long time... goodjob
I have made a note to revisit several trees I have tapped over the years and will report back.
 
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