I have that too and like it, it does have limitations, it helps a lot if one has some idea what a tree might be, otherwise very slow going.
Trees in your garden, do you make use of them?
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I've found an approach to plant id that works well for me; I flick through a book called 'the wild flowers of the British isles' which is rich in illustrations though poor in other detail - but quickly allows me to narrow down what a plant might be. Then I can easily confirm identification on a website www.wildflowerfinder.org.uk which has an unbelievable amount of detail.
I struggle with trees though. It took me three years to identify a tree in a park near my house which turned out to be something called medlar thorn. Was a frustrating three years.
Is it one of those trees you see everywhere now? Field maple was one of those for me.
I think regularly testing yourself when out and about really helps, I test my other half too which actually helps me more than it does her, as eventually I come across a species I don't know so I have to identify it.
I think regularly testing yourself when out and about really helps, I test my other half too which actually helps me more than it does her, as eventually I come across a species I don't know so I have to identify it.
For me it was Wych Elm; for years I didn't even notice it, now I see it everywhere
We have loads of it round here too! Used to confuse it with hazel in my early tree learning days
No, I've never seen it anywhere else, but I know what you mean - I have that with Cedar of lebanon.
Medlarthorn has the thorns and fruit of the hawthorn and leaves of the medlar, and has no purpose other than to confuse amateur botanists. Actually I'm being unfair, the fruit are large compared to normal haws, they are probably quite edible, but I've not tried them yet.
Medlarthorn has the thorns and fruit of the hawthorn and leaves of the medlar, and has no purpose other than to confuse amateur botanists. Actually I'm being unfair, the fruit are large compared to normal haws, they are probably quite edible, but I've not tried them yet.
See I'm not up on my pines and cypress. I know a couple but it's very rare to see them round here, apart from the odd bit of plantation. It's all broadleaf with the odd yew and larch.
Living in the Taiga (Boreal Forest Biome), I taught tree ID to prospective Registered Professional Foresters.
About 40 gymnos, including some astounding landscaping ornamentals and the same # of broad leaf species, some of economic importance. I'm very visually oriented so it's really easy for me, even just driving by. For most everybody else, tree ID is a skill to be very proud of.
I look to the anthropologists to tell me which are the multipurpose trees in North America. There are two.
In the west, Western Red Cedar Thuja plicata. In the east, Paper Birch Betula papyrifera.
I planted fruit bearing shrubs instead of trees. The only multipurpose one might be the Saskatoon/Service Berry Amelanchier alnifolia. A prolific berry-producer and a fine source of arrow shaft woods, every 5-6 years or so.
I like my 2001 grape vines for all the things they give me.
My crappy apple trees feed pigs for pork and the bigger limbs are chunked for the BBQ smoker of ribs & chickens.
About 40 gymnos, including some astounding landscaping ornamentals and the same # of broad leaf species, some of economic importance. I'm very visually oriented so it's really easy for me, even just driving by. For most everybody else, tree ID is a skill to be very proud of.
I look to the anthropologists to tell me which are the multipurpose trees in North America. There are two.
In the west, Western Red Cedar Thuja plicata. In the east, Paper Birch Betula papyrifera.
I planted fruit bearing shrubs instead of trees. The only multipurpose one might be the Saskatoon/Service Berry Amelanchier alnifolia. A prolific berry-producer and a fine source of arrow shaft woods, every 5-6 years or so.
I like my 2001 grape vines for all the things they give me.
My crappy apple trees feed pigs for pork and the bigger limbs are chunked for the BBQ smoker of ribs & chickens.
Bump to this thread and apologies if covered elsewhere in greater depth but searching ' willows' gave too many potential hits.
I have Willows planted along my water course mainly to help stabilise the land and stop water erosion of the bank.
They are now getting quite leggy - maybe 12-15ft in height and due to the Orientation of the garden leaning in over the garden as opposed to the other way.
So I'd like to prune them back - have the main trunk and root system continue to grow but lose the willowy ( even I see what I did there... ) slender branches that dance in the wind.
So Three main questions.
1) When Can give them a hard pruning back? which month is considered 'best' ?
2) How far down can I take them down? They've only been in a couple of years so I'd say the main trunk is less than wrist size.
I don't want to cut so much back that it impedes its future healthy growth.
3) Should I treat the cut ends with anything or is is disease infection resistant?
Thanks.
I have Willows planted along my water course mainly to help stabilise the land and stop water erosion of the bank.
They are now getting quite leggy - maybe 12-15ft in height and due to the Orientation of the garden leaning in over the garden as opposed to the other way.
So I'd like to prune them back - have the main trunk and root system continue to grow but lose the willowy ( even I see what I did there... ) slender branches that dance in the wind.
So Three main questions.
1) When Can give them a hard pruning back? which month is considered 'best' ?
2) How far down can I take them down? They've only been in a couple of years so I'd say the main trunk is less than wrist size.
I don't want to cut so much back that it impedes its future healthy growth.
3) Should I treat the cut ends with anything or is is disease infection resistant?
Thanks.
Willow (there are hundreds of varieties as it easily hybridises!) is grown specifically to coppice for both wands for weaving and, over a longer coppice rotation, for other uses including fuel. You'd have to try hard to kill them once they've taken. However, you'll need to decide how you want them to look in the future. If you cut to the ground, they'll create a mass of stems from low down (a bit like dogwoods). You'll need to repeat that every few years to maintain a thick shrub like appearance. If you trim the lower branches and cut the stem higher up, pollarding, they'll sprout from there (mainly).
From now on is as good as time as any - never in hard frost or drought. We used to be told to only coppice when the sap is down, however, new studies suggest there is very little difference in the outcome.
From now on is as good as time as any - never in hard frost or drought. We used to be told to only coppice when the sap is down, however, new studies suggest there is very little difference in the outcome.
Don't treat the cut ends, it'll do more harm than good.
Although they can be cut at any time of year I would leave it to late winter to leave a bit of habitat for wildlife. We've still got caterpillars feeding on our willows which provide food for birds etc.
Any decent bits cut off can be used as cuttings of course.
Although they can be cut at any time of year I would leave it to late winter to leave a bit of habitat for wildlife. We've still got caterpillars feeding on our willows which provide food for birds etc.
Any decent bits cut off can be used as cuttings of course.
Has anyone actually tried using willow bark as a pain killer?
I know that it works if you know what you are doing.
I also know you shouldn’t try if you don’t get on with aspirin.
I know that it works if you know what you are doing.
I also know you shouldn’t try if you don’t get on with aspirin.
We have a few large maple trees where we live; one is immediately adjacent to our back deck. We usually tap them in the spring time for sap. we tried making syrup once but I think the reduction is 40:1 so about a shot glass of syrup to a Nalgene bottle of sap. We much prefer to drink the sap as is and nice and cold. It has a really refreshing and pleasant quality.
Certainly as trees are taken down there is wood for the fire pit and material for carving a few spoons, usually by the fire. A few ornamental Cherry trees are good fodder for carving when they need a bit of trimming.
Yellow and black birch are ubiquitous in my AO, but none on the property sadly. It offers a good, but seldom needed, excuse for a woods wander to collect bark for fire lighting and Black Birch twigs for tea.
Along the lines of local teas we also have Spicebush and Sassafras, as well as Eastern Hemlock, all of which make a fine brew.
Certainly as trees are taken down there is wood for the fire pit and material for carving a few spoons, usually by the fire. A few ornamental Cherry trees are good fodder for carving when they need a bit of trimming.
Yellow and black birch are ubiquitous in my AO, but none on the property sadly. It offers a good, but seldom needed, excuse for a woods wander to collect bark for fire lighting and Black Birch twigs for tea.
Along the lines of local teas we also have Spicebush and Sassafras, as well as Eastern Hemlock, all of which make a fine brew.
I mentioned Black Birch in my post above, and that is supposed to have an analgesic quality as well. I've never tried it just for that purpose though. It has been said that the native Americans would chew the twigs for that purpose, which we have done. Pleasant enough on its own but i cannot speak to the medicinal effect.
I think there is a poster on here who has written about using willow bark as a pain killer. I am not good at searching this site so can not find it. I think is might be Toddy or British Red but I am only guessing. Toddy would be my best guess for someone who would know about it.
I wonder if you cut the tops off your willow could you try planting a second row with the offcuts to make the hedge thicker lower down? Willow I believe roots very easily from sticks. I guess a row of willows could go a bit thin and see through as a hedge if not careful hence this idea.
From my experience of willow, it takes a lot to kill them. My late grandad had planted a willow when he first moved into his house. A really nice weeping willow. It was huge when I first remember it with a low down split in the trunk to make climbing in it easy. Plus the weeping branches allowed you to hide in there. It has been hit by lightning I think and the big storm that was not a hurricane according to the weather presenter caused one huge and heavy branch to drop straight through the bulk of the smaller branches leaving a big gap. That soon filled up with more smaller branches. I was in my 20s when he died and I never saw the garden again (so I knew that tree for 20 years of it being taller than the house).
From my experience of willow, it takes a lot to kill them. My late grandad had planted a willow when he first moved into his house. A really nice weeping willow. It was huge when I first remember it with a low down split in the trunk to make climbing in it easy. Plus the weeping branches allowed you to hide in there. It has been hit by lightning I think and the big storm that was not a hurricane according to the weather presenter caused one huge and heavy branch to drop straight through the bulk of the smaller branches leaving a big gap. That soon filled up with more smaller branches. I was in my 20s when he died and I never saw the garden again (so I knew that tree for 20 years of it being taller than the house).
So long as it has favourable conditions you can get willow to grow extremely easily.
I've even seen willow logs stuck upside down as temporary posts take root and start growing into trees.
I've even seen willow logs stuck upside down as temporary posts take root and start growing into trees.
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