The Lynx effect / stove.

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Not sure if this will help explain ....

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The stove will work as long as you don't fill it over the height of the jets. It's usually a case of adding one or two ounces of fuel until you find a level that works best.

thanks shewie ! great diagram for helping me there!!!

knightfisher
 
Nice one mate :),
Like the pre-heater, good idea .
Cheers, got to thank you for the instructions!
I remembered from the Comrie meet that my meths was really cold and took a good heat to get it going so had to do something it was -9 in the shed!!
 
heres my first diy stove , probably the same as most but i added afew small strips of metal into the pop rivets just so it gives my kettle a better seat !!

tested well , thanks for the tutorial and advise

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3. I tried the stove and it burnt well boiling a cup (from my swiss army volcano stove) of cold water relatively quickly (didnt time it but about 3-4 mins). However, when I lifted the cup off the stove, the underside was alight with meths - any idea why this may have happened?

4. The flames from the side holes seemed to get weaker with the cup on top - any ideas?

I would imagine this is to do with efficiency of the flame, we all know oxygen is needed to burn a fuel, if the burner is not pulling air in effectively it won't burn properly.
The meths vaporises as the burner burns and warms the meths in the resevoir allowing it to feed the holes, as the diagram earlier shows well. By filing small grooves in the rim of the burner you willl allow the burner to draw more air in, the cup is sealing the 'air intake' area thus causing it to die a little, the residue meths problem is probably due to the unburnt vaporised fuel as there is notenough oxygen to burn it all, leaving the burner, cooling/codensing and collecting underneath the burner.

I reckon a couple of grooves in the rim will sort out your two problems together. Just an educated guess from a sad science teacher!
 
i would be careful about filing any grooves in the top of the stove as the design is meant to be a low pressure burner.......filing grooves in may alter this.........but give it a try if you like and let us know the results
 
Just wondering, has anyone tried this kind of stove inside a kelly kettle? Would it be more efficient?

I have a kelly kettle might try a Coke can version as I dont have access to stinky Lynx :p
 
so inspired by this thread i just had to have a go, he is my version of this amazing little stove, loved making it, was a great little project. hope you like it, any comments welcome, as this is my first time at making something like this, but i can see it won't be the last.
i did not put the rivvets in, as i was unsure whether they were needed, i tried the stove to see if it worked ok, and if it didn't i was going to add the rivvets, but all went well.



 
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but thought it best to add here, rather than create a new one :)

having got a few days off, I thought I'd spend some time trying this out. So as I had an empty can this morning, I set about it with a hacksaw, and within half an hour I had a nice little meths stove :)


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I then decided to make a nice cuppa, so put some water in my Trangia kettle, and placed it on to boil

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Whilst i didn't actually time it, it did seem to boil a lot quicker than using the Trangia stove, but it did start to slightly melt the handle!

having tried, and failed, to make a coke can stove in the past, I am very impressed at how easy it is to make one of these, and how well it works - can see me getting lots of use from this :)
 
Made another stove as a submission to a Bushclass they have over on BCUSA.
Thanks to knightfisher8 for the pot stand inspiration :) .

Added those staifix type building ties to form legs/pot stand.

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When turned upside down the depression in the bottom of the can is useful for holding solid fuel like Hexi.

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I've made two of these now, had to give one away mind you, performance wise they are brilliant but I am a little concerned with stability when there's a pot on top, I don't fancy the idea of screwing pieces of metal to the burner as it will take up more room in the bag or possibly tear something. Does anyone have any ideas of how to make it a little safer against tipping ?
 
I've made two of these now, had to give one away mind you, performance wise they are brilliant but I am a little concerned with stability when there's a pot on top, I don't fancy the idea of screwing pieces of metal to the burner as it will take up more room in the bag or possibly tear something. Does anyone have any ideas of how to make it a little safer against tipping ?

You could always try putting the stove into a cat food can and then pack loft insulation between the two, this would give a slightly wider base and by pouring in a very small amount of meths you have a pre-heater ?
 
I've made two of these now, had to give one away mind you, performance wise they are brilliant but I am a little concerned with stability when there's a pot on top, I don't fancy the idea of screwing pieces of metal to the burner as it will take up more room in the bag or possibly tear something. Does anyone have any ideas of how to make it a little safer against tipping ?


I had ago at making a Jim Wood inspired cat stove awhile back and felt the same about that, so also made one of Jim's stands too.

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Perhaps a stand something along those lines would work for you, as it can be separated from the stove for packing.

Link to stand build....
http://jwbasecamp.com/Articles/SuperCat/Stand.html

Cheers,
Pete.
 
I would imagine this is to do with efficiency of the flame, we all know oxygen is needed to burn a fuel, if the burner is not pulling air in effectively it won't burn properly.
The meths vaporises as the burner burns and warms the meths in the resevoir allowing it to feed the holes, as the diagram earlier shows well. By filing small grooves in the rim of the burner you willl allow the burner to draw more air in, the cup is sealing the 'air intake' area thus causing it to die a little, the residue meths problem is probably due to the unburnt vaporised fuel as there is notenough oxygen to burn it all, leaving the burner, cooling/codensing and collecting underneath the burner.

I reckon a couple of grooves in the rim will sort out your two problems together. Just an educated guess from a sad science teacher!

Ie experienced this problem ocassionally with the lynx can stove and its not the seal created by the pot. the problem usually arises when a cold bridge is created. either the stove was not properly heated up prior to use and the sudden arrival of a pot of cold water caused a reduction in combustion or a pot that is too dense like stainless steel has been used. its normally the former but the lynx can stoves are more prone to it than the aluminium beer bottles as the alu is thinner and holds less heat to sustain the reaction

edit: a nice way to overcome this is to roll the top rather than rivet it. you can then nip the rim to create a tiny burr to slightly raise the pot off the top. this stops the pan drawing too much heat away. it also stops a complete seal being formed and meths over jetting from the holes (this is scary when it happens)
 
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