Not sure if this will help explain ....
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The stove will work as long as you don't fill it over the height of the jets. It's usually a case of adding one or two ounces of fuel until you find a level that works best.
Cheers, got to thank you for the instructions!Nice one mate,
Like the pre-heater, good idea .
3. I tried the stove and it burnt well boiling a cup (from my swiss army volcano stove) of cold water relatively quickly (didnt time it but about 3-4 mins). However, when I lifted the cup off the stove, the underside was alight with meths - any idea why this may have happened?
4. The flames from the side holes seemed to get weaker with the cup on top - any ideas?
Nicely done eel28, I bet you're working on your mkII or mkIII already![]()
I've made two of these now, had to give one away mind you, performance wise they are brilliant but I am a little concerned with stability when there's a pot on top, I don't fancy the idea of screwing pieces of metal to the burner as it will take up more room in the bag or possibly tear something. Does anyone have any ideas of how to make it a little safer against tipping ?
I would imagine this is to do with efficiency of the flame, we all know oxygen is needed to burn a fuel, if the burner is not pulling air in effectively it won't burn properly.
The meths vaporises as the burner burns and warms the meths in the resevoir allowing it to feed the holes, as the diagram earlier shows well. By filing small grooves in the rim of the burner you willl allow the burner to draw more air in, the cup is sealing the 'air intake' area thus causing it to die a little, the residue meths problem is probably due to the unburnt vaporised fuel as there is notenough oxygen to burn it all, leaving the burner, cooling/codensing and collecting underneath the burner.
I reckon a couple of grooves in the rim will sort out your two problems together. Just an educated guess from a sad science teacher!