Stabilised wood question

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Muddypaws

Full Member
Jan 23, 2009
1,115
357
Southampton
This may sound like a stupid question, but what is stabilised wood?
The reason for my asking is that I wish to make some scales for a full tang knife, and wonder if there is any advantage in using stabilised wood instead of well seasoned wood.
Looking forward to your answers, many thanks!
 
To my knowledge stabilised wood has been treated in a vacuum tank with a hardener.The vacuum sucks the hardener into the pores of the wood.I think it makes impervious to water,grease ect and its also,er,harder!
 
the wood has been saturated in a vaccuum with a hardening resin poly something or other if i remember. It makes it stable- so less prone to wraping and cracking and also makes it harder and therefore able to take a nicer finish.

ot's a nice choice for knife ahndles
 
Whether it makes wood more brittle is a hard one since brittle fracture isn't a normal failure mode for a knife handle. Stabilised handles don't crack from brittle fracture any more than non-stabilised do. Now if you were talking about pool cues you might have apoint, but since they also use stabilised wood for those without too many problems, I think its probably a moot point ;)

More important, you can take a wood that would otherwise be too soft and too weak and by sabilising it you can make it a good handle material. Many of the burrs, and spalted woods fall into this category.

The resin is generally some type pf acrylic monomer which penetrates easily into the wood under the alternate effects of a vaccum followed by positive pressure. The wood is then cured in an oven where the resin polymerises.

There are advantages and disadvantages. On the plus side you can get stunning grain patterns, good stability, durability, and consistent machinability. It is also easy to finish, merely requiring fine sanding to your chosen grit. The "finish" cannot be sanded through as can happen with a superglue finish, or some oil finishes.

The downsides are cost, which is a lot higher than for untreated wood, size, the blocks tend to come in standard sizes which may or may not suit your particular project, weight, if you want a light knife then you will save weight by using unstabilised wood and giving it an oil finish, smell, filing and sanding, never mind using power tools is like working plastic, it stinks, and finally, the finish can look more plastic like than some people want.

For your first few knives I always advise people not to spend their money on expensive wood, or at least, not the stabilised version of the expensive wood. Irrespective of how supporting folk are to a new makers first knives, most have a lot of faults ranging from poor design to poor heat treating and questionable fit and finish. I just think it a shame to spend a lot on the materials unless you know that you will be getting the most from them. Also, I find there is a lot more statisfaction to be had from getting a good finish on natural wood than there is from buffing up something which is plastic impregnated. I do use stabilised wood, but with the exception of how easy the finishing is, its not as much fun as using untreated wood.
 
Oh, one other thing. Not all stabilised wood is created equal. Not by a looooong way. I have handled some that felt no different from plane untreated wood. It was light and didn't finish as I expected. Some other that I have used was well soaked in resin, but it was kind of soft, not a lot of fun to work and really stank. It wasn't durable at all, scratched easily too.

The best stuff that I have used or handled comes from Wood Stabilizing Specialist International http://www.stabilizedwood.com/ and they in turn supply some of the US knife supply stores, and were supplying Brisa with their wood. Don't know what the state of play is now with who esle they supply, but their process is good!
 
Yup,

Make sure you dont get the epoxy stabilized stuff. You want acrylic stabilized that also as Chris said has is done in a vacuum and then hardened, or the best (but most expensive) is plexiglass stabilized stuff
 
Thanks very much to all of you for clearing that up. To be honest, I don't think my efforts at knifemaking are ever going to be that good to justify spending on stabilised wood. I'll probably just use some seasoned timber that I already have. I'm really not bothered about having interesting grain patterns, just a good serviceable handle.
Thnaks again!
 
Yup,

Make sure you dont get the epoxy stabilized stuff. You want acrylic stabilized that also as Chris said has is done in a vacuum and then hardened, or the best (but most expensive) is plexiglass stabilized stuff

Care to expand upon that statement, Shink?

what is wrong with epoxy stabilised?

what advantages has acrylic or plexiglass stabilised got?
 
Warning, the following link contains pure wood-porn, view at your on risk :lmao:
http://www.gilmerwood.com/new_unique.htm

That bookmatched Desert Ironwood is calling out to me :D

01-23-09w18143.jpg
 
Does or has anyone tried a product called "Ronseal wood hardener" (if you can still get it).

My Farther used to use it when repairing/restoring old wood work. It was a very thin clear fluid that you painted on and it wicked into the wood and when dry was very hard and could be sanded.

Could this be used to stabilise handles?


Richard

P.S. I'll try Googling it.
 
Does or has anyone tried a product called "Ronseal wood hardener" (if you can still get it).

My Farther used to use it when repairing/restoring old wood work. It was a very thin clear fluid that you painted on and it wicked into the wood and when dry was very hard and could be sanded.

Could this be used to stabilise handles?


Richard

P.S. I'll try Googling it.

It works, but not that well (assuming you are suggesting using it in a vacuum chamber). Often you can cut the wood days afterwards and the smell of the solvent is still strong meaning that it has not hardened through.

You're much better off with a 2 part resin like Pro-Set infusion epoxy.
 
Well, given that I have not tried or used the epoxy impregnated wood, I am not really sure how it would behave, but I would still put money on the acrylic being the better process. This is based on the molecules being smaller, therefore the viscocity will be lower and it will penetrate more completely. Then, setting is due to heat, not heat+chemical reaction, there is no question over whether the mixture has exactly the right composition thoughout the block.

Then again, there are epoxies and epoxies.

Never heard of Plexiglas stabilised:confused:

The wood hardener really doesn't do well. It sets by the evaporation of solvent, so much of its bulk is solvent. It makes the wood swell initially, then shrinks again, but the final product really isn't all that hard. I have some English birch burr that I tried wood hardener on and it remained light and not very hard despite being thoroughly soaked. The same wood sent to WSSI came back heavy and rock hard...REALLY looking forward to haveing a project worthy of it! :D
 
Then again, there are epoxies and epoxies.
Exactly, and the Pro-Set infusion is a very low viscosity (runny) resin. It's specifically produced to soak in to porous material, hence the word "infusion". I'm not sure that the molecular size has much to do with it, you're filling the pores and cavities of the wood and these are much bigger than the molecules in question.
Never heard of Plexiglas stabilised:confused:

me neither
 

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