So much money on knives

[Highbinder]

As you can see it is pretty minor. I expected blunting, not chipping, as I was just piercing rather than cutting the tin - lesson learned!

I am of the opinion that something costs too much only when you become afraid to use, damage or lose it.

But perhaps I should be packing a SAK or MT in future

 

[Janne]

Not too bad, I expected worse.

Wait until you baton a piece of timber with a nail in......

 

[NoName]

Yeah I agree
A carbon Morakniv 3,2 mm is all you need for Bushcraft.
The rest is superfluous.
But I do it too! Because I have a soft spot for knives.
Aah!!

 

[Janne]

I put a ding in one mine Fällknivar some years ago, i batoned through a Cod spine as I wanted to keep the head and boil it (to eat) but missed seeing that the hook was still there in the throat.
Ding still there. Knife works!

 

[Highbinder]

Not too bad, I expected worse.

Wait until you baton a piece of timber with a nail in......

Like I said, I don't think I misused it. I can deal with edge dulling and rolling but chipping is not wanted. I've been staying with regular tool steels like this one in A2 after my experiences with 'fancy steels' like D2 and CPM3V which I found to be extremely hard and extremely brittle.

As to batoning, when I first started I wrecked a few edges, but now I've got my khukri for that. Lovely lump of steel to bash on. But I'm more a big saw little knife kinda guy now

 

[decorum]

I was expecting a lot worse too. Perhaps carry an awl or a nail? They don't weigh a lot (Awl loop instead of a firesteel/ferro rod loop on a sheath anyone?)

To be honest and if it were mine, I wouldn't even bother re-profiling. It'll come out eventually with general sharpening anyway

 

[Shelley]

If you are going to abuse a knife get an esee, at least they will replace it no questions asked. But a nail would have been the better tool, or a drill or an awl, or, well you get the "point"...

 

[Janne]

To be frank, my wife has a habit of punching a hole through the metal top of glass jars, and have done so since I met her.
Only way she can open them, by releasing the vacuum.
We have Zwilling kitchen knives.
No damage like this.

Could it be this knife is a tad overhardened? It seems most knife manufacturers want an edge as hard as thy can get, sacrifying the toughness.

 

[mrcharly]

You described that as an 'obtuse' grind. Looks like a full flat grind to me, and a fairly fine tip. I wouldn't expect it to stand up to that sort of use.

Get a knife with a convex grind, an 'apple seed' edge, if you want to use it like that. Wrong tool for the job. (Just like I was using the wrong tool for the job when I broke the tip off my Mora).

 

[punkrockcaveman]

To be frank, my wife has a habit of punching a hole through the metal top of glass jars, and have done so since I met her.
Only way she can open them, by releasing the vacuum.
We have Zwilling kitchen knives.
No damage like this.

Could it be this knife is a tad overhardened? It seems most knife manufacturers want an edge as hard as thy can get, sacrifying the toughness.

I've been thinking that myself. Surely the only way that the edge would chip like that. Could be a tempering quality control issue or maybe they were shooting for a very hard blade anyway.

 

[mark.177]

its hard to tell without the knife in hand but that edge looks very thin! hardly a hint of secondary bevel. personally id take the edge back a few mm or more and put a new secondary if wanting a more durable edge.
even the best steel with the best heat treat is going to chip out if thin enough

mind you if it was heat treated post bevel grind with such a thin edge? and no anti scale used the steel would be weaker due to de carb or even over heating?... its hard to know for sure but could be a number of problems but that edge! looks very fragile

 

[Hibrion]

To be frank, my wife has a habit of punching a hole through the metal top of glass jars, and have done so since I met her.
Only way she can open them, by releasing the vacuum.
We have Zwilling kitchen knives..

These are great kitchen knives and hold a good edge that doesn't chip or roll in my experience.

 

[Tonyuk]

The most expensive knife i own is an esee 6, which was about £180 from hennie at the time. I was a bit concerned about spending that much but the knife itself has been absolutely rock solid and the handle is very comfortable. I still have and use plenty of moras though and i think they're very good also.

Tonyuk

 

[C_Claycomb]

To be frank, my wife has a habit of punching a hole through the metal top of glass jars, and have done so since I met her.
Only way she can open them, by releasing the vacuum.
....

Hi, has she tried running them under hot water? Expand the metal lid more than the glass, and heat the contents which will increase internal pressure. Seems a shame to ruin the lids. Lots of uses for glass jars with lids



A2 should be treated in a vacuum or inert gas furnace, so a lot less chance of decarb. Seems more likely that it was too hard and too thin.

Good luck!!

 

[MartiniDave]

Even a dot punch which is intended to be hammered into a metal surface will become blunt over time - sometimes surprisingly quickly.
I would only use a knife to punch a hole in something in a genuine "survival situation", correct tool for the job and all that.
Just my tuppence worth.

 

[Janne]

I use a teaspoon to lever up the edge ( on a metal lidded jar) to release the pressure. I find heating it takes longer.

I am not so worried about the Zwilling as we had them for decades, but if she uses my Myiabi knives there will be some serious conseqvences........

What I hate is that the exposed metal edge rusts, I hate rust in my sauerkraut!
We use those US made "oldfashioned" jam jars so have no need for those.

 

[Stew]

its hard to tell without the knife in hand but that edge looks very thin! hardly a hint of secondary bevel. personally id take the edge back a few mm or more and put a new secondary if wanting a more durable edge.
even the best steel with the best heat treat is going to chip out if thin enough

mind you if it was heat treated post bevel grind with such a thin edge? and no anti scale used the steel would be weaker due to de carb or even over heating?... its hard to know for sure but could be a number of problems but that edge! looks very fragile

It doesn't have a secondary - the grind is a full height convex edge to zero.

 

[Stew]

You described that as an 'obtuse' grind. Looks like a full flat grind to me, and a fairly fine tip. I wouldn't expect it to stand up to that sort of use.

Get a knife with a convex grind, an 'apple seed' edge, if you want to use it like that. Wrong tool for the job. (Just like I was using the wrong tool for the job when I broke the tip off my Mora).

It's a Bark River - it'll be a convex grind.