Snares

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buckley

Nomad
Nov 8, 2006
369
4
United Kingdom
Hi,

I was wandering if anyone had any advice on snaring rabbits, I have made my own snares with tealers and placed them about the place (with permission) bit I have yet to catch a thing.

Is there anyone out there with any tips, or anyone in and around hampshire who would be able to teach me the art of snaring/ and tracking basics for a fee?

I am on the verge of giving up, I go out most mornings and come home empty handed :(

I've got this rabbit stew recipie on my kitchen side, and I am just missing one vital ingredient!
 

queeg9000

Forager
Apr 24, 2006
182
2
Caldicot, South Wales
Buckley,

when setting snares, pick out runs that are obviously well used, along fence lines and bushes, if there are cobwebs across them or they're generally covered in weed growth give them a miss. Another good tip is to look at your proposed sites after dark with a big lamp, that way you'll see what's about, and more to the point where they're bolting, when scared.
Also check early mornings too, then when you've noted a few useful places ste your snares, with the minimum of disturbance to the surroundings, try not to leave too much of you in the spot, that is don't touch too much, and that way you'll keep your scent trail to a minimum.
The snare loops need to be fairly small about 4" diameter approx, and ideally made from twisted brass, with a stout cord tether.
Make sure the tehers are well anchored, the last thing you want is a rabbit trailing a snare around!

Once you've set snares, keep a count on how many and make a note of where you put them, if you set them in the evening, check them early in the morning, and take up any you don't intend to reset. They don't always make a clean kill, so you can expect to find a live rabbit now and then, dispatch them cleanly and swiftly.

hope this helps
 
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chrisanson

Nomad
Apr 12, 2006
390
7
60
Dudley
The best way to set a snare is “between the beats” as I was told when I was young! That is if you look carefully at the runs you will see that there are spots that are more worn than the rest of the run. Put your snare between the most worn parts about 6” high. I have found this gets you more than just dropping a wire anywhere along the runs. But please check at frequent intervals and have a priest handy (they do not always work)
Good luck
Chris
 

Ed

Admin
Admin
Aug 27, 2003
5,973
37
51
South Wales Valleys
Can I askhow many snares you are putting out? In a new area, I usualy set about 25 and see which ones catch..... those that do, tend to be those runs currently in use so there is a good likelyhood you will catch there again.

Ed
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,718
1,964
Mercia
Buckley,

I can probably help out mate, but it would have to be January now.

Is that any good to you?

I can bring some of my own make as well if you like?

Red
 

fred gordon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 8, 2006
2,099
19
78
Aberdeenshire
Just as a matter of interest on this topic. I received today a copy of a consultation document from the Scottish Executive. They are undertaking a consultation on snaring practice in Scotland. Haven't read it yet but it could have implications for the future of snaring in Scotland. :rolleyes:
 

Fire Starter

Tenderfoot
Aug 1, 2005
96
0
England
queeg9000 said:
Buckley,

They don't always make a clean kill, so you can expect to find a live rabbit now and then, dispatch them cleanly and swiftly.

hope this helps

I was taught that the legal snare (free running loop) was to hold the rabbit, it should be alive and just sitting with the snare around its neck not strangled. You then approach the rabbit and dispatch it.
 

buckley

Nomad
Nov 8, 2006
369
4
United Kingdom
Ed said:
Can I askhow many snares you are putting out? In a new area, I usualy set about 25 and see which ones catch..... those that do, tend to be those runs currently in use so there is a good likelyhood you will catch there again.

Ed

Well I only put about 5 out, so that might be my problem! What a rookie I am!

British Red, January would be great mate, feel free to PM with further info.

Thanks once again
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,718
1,964
Mercia
Buckley8219 said:
Well I only put about 5 out, so that might be my problem! What a rookie I am!

British Red, January would be great mate, feel free to PM with further info.

Thanks once again
Drop me a note after chrimbo mate and we'll sort summat out
 

pothunter

Settler
Jun 6, 2006
510
4
Wyre Forest Worcestershire
Hi Buckley

Reds offer is the best you will learn more in a morning than reading a 100 books.

But whilst waiting for your visit check the obvious are there rabbits to be caught, are your snares being avoided, pushed aside and are you identifying runs correctly all obvious things if you have done a bit but not perhaps to a novice.

Also get out mornings and evenings don’t set snares just find a good vantage point and watch what’s about how the runs are being used etc. and don’t be afraid to use a lamp as Queeg suggested to see what’s about after dark.

I don’t agree with Fire Starter if snares are set right they will kill with a broken neck but there is no guarantee (about 50%) in my experience but I haven’t snared for a good few years.

Good luck, Pothunter.
 

Ahjno

Vice-Adminral
Admin
Aug 9, 2004
6,861
51
Rotterdam (NL)
www.bushcraftuk.com
Now we are talking snares ... anyone got some sort of tutorial at hand? (stupid question, but you never know ;)).
I know you need 8 strands of wire in a snare in the UK ... but is it:
- 4 Strands, folded in halve creating an eye in the middle of the primary strand, or
- 8 Strands, made in one twisted / braided strand, with on one end an eye twisted in it?

How much of wire (total) do you need to create one (ordinary / rabbit) snare, as can be seen (for sale) on Andrew's website (Outdoorcode) - taken into account you need either 4 or 8 strands.

What is the length for the cord attached to the snare?

I don't know more about snaring than I learnt on my Woodlore Fundamental course and what I've learnt and read here on BCUK ... I don't intend to snare, as it is highly illegal overhere. Just have some (aprx. 4m) copperwire overhere (thin) and want to give it a try making some myself ...

Note to self: try not to snare any flatmates ... :naughty:
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,718
1,964
Mercia
Ahjno,

Rabbit snares should be constructed with 3 or 4 -stranded brass wire (doubled so that whilst there are 3-4 strands around the eye, there are 6-8 in the noose) with a loop of 4” (10 cm) diameter for the head of the rabbit. The snare must have a fixed stop about 5” (14 cm) from the ‘eye’ of the snare.

Legitimate target species
Snares are used most commonly in fox and rabbit control but are also set for a variety of other purposes including, for example, to capture rabbits for food and foxes in research programmes. In addition to fox and rabbit other target species that can legally be snared include rats, grey squirrels and mink.

Assessing your ground
Before using snares or other capture/control methods, an assessment should be made to determine whether the need (eg regarding damage or the threat of damage) is sufficient to warrant action being taken, taking into account the possible welfare impact on target animals and any risks to non-target species. Where capture/control is deemed to be necessary then an assessment should also be made of the most appropriate method to use, again taking into account the welfare impact on target animals and any risks to non-target species, and steps should be taken to minimise these risks.

Free running snares
This is the basic type of legal snare. The wire is threaded through a simple eyelet at one end, allowing free movement of the wire in both directions. The noose should relax when a caught animal struggles, reducing the chance of strangulation. However, snares designed to be free running often begin to act as self-locking if they become rusty, kinked or matted with the hair of captured animals. Care of snares is therefore of paramount importance

Laws covering snares
Under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 it is an offence to set in position any trap or snare calculated (intended) to cause bodily injury to any wild animal included in Schedule 6 of that Act which comes into contact with it, or to use a trap or snare for the purpose of killing such a wild animal; relevant species listed in Schedule 6 include badger, polecat, otter, red squirrel, hedgehog and pine marten. Snaring of protected species is not permitted unless the person has been authorised by a specific licence under section 16 of the Act.
The Deer Act 1991 makes it an offence to set in position any trap or snare calculated to cause bodily injury to any deer coming in contact with it, or to use any trap or snare for the purpose of killing or taking any deer.
Under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 the use of a ‘self-locking’ snare is unlawful; only free-running snares can lawfully be set. The term self-locking is not defined in the Act and there has been no successful prosecution within a court high enough to clarify the law by legal precedent.
In Scotland, the Nature Conservation (Scotland) Act 2004 contains the same ban on self-locking snares, but goes further to make it a crime to sell or possess a self-locking snare
In Northern Ireland the Wildlife (Northern Ireland) Order 1985 prevents the use of self-locking snares.

Checking snares
How often a snare must be inspected varies slightly . The situationin England and Wales, where the law says that snares must be checked every day.can mean an animal can be trapped in a snare for up to 48 hours, as the snare may be checked just after midnight one day, and just before midnight the next.
In Scotland, the law says that snares must be checked every 24 hours.
In Northern Ireland, the Welfare of Animals Act (Northern Ireland) 1972 requires that snares are inspected at least once every day between sunrise and sunset.
The Deer Act 1991 makes it an offence to set a snare to catch a deer


For me, its dawn AND dusk according to the best practice guide (lots of good info in this too)

http://www.defra.gov.uk/wildlife-countryside/vertebrates/snares/pdf/snares-cop.pdf

Hope that helps

Red
 
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British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,718
1,964
Mercia
Ahjno said:
It certainly does!! Cheers for the info Red!
:You_Rock_ but you know that already ... ;)
3 green dots ... :yikes:


:eek: :eek: :eek:

yes I noticed that today - ill deserved when I see the fantastic skills that others have and share so freely but I'm grateful for the kind comments people have left

:eek: :eek: :eek:
 

Mike B

Tenderfoot
Feb 13, 2006
76
0
59
Wakefield West Yorks
Only droppiong a few snares is no good I drop over 100 and closer to 250 to ensure a good catch rate.
If you are setting your snares on a run then you want a minimum of 10 snares to 1 run I will not set snares on runs if there is the possibility of livestock coming into contact with them.To set on a run first make sure your snares are well weathered and handle them as little as possible if you can manage to get some rabbit urine on them so much the better.Identify the run if you look closely you will see worn patches (hops) and greener patches set your snare directly in the middle of the greener bit slightly pear shaped that will just fit your fist through then put your fist on the ground thumb uppermost and set with the tealer to that height.
The tealer should be 6'' long pencil thick split at one end to hold the snare and pointed at the other end to stick in the ground the end of the snare is tied to the anchor peg again get rid of your scent on the cord the peg needs to be more substantial than the tealer I use wooden tent pegs 8'' long.
The best catch rates are achieved by snaring square mesh fencing and walls.To snare these forget the tealer and for the fence the anchor too and twist the snare directly to the fence set the noose same shape and size but this time touching the floor then tie a piece of brightly coloured wool to the top wire on the fence it makes them easier to spot when checking.
For walls set the bottom of the noose in line with the hole in the wall you may need longer cord and a longer tealer to achieve the correct height.
Hope this helps Mike B...
 

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