Ski's Leatherworking evolution.

[MSkiba]

Hi Guys.

So it all started with me getting my grubby hands on some cheap leather :

I didnt have any tools, so I improvised, and made this (all tools used are displayed)

then this:

I started getting better, soon I was making this :

Now I feel Im ready to move on. Look what just arrived at my door :

Time to start making serious leatherwork

If anyone has any spare D rings or buckles, I need some for my projects (I will be at middlewood) I would really appreciate it.

I intend to make a sheath for my crook knife, a bushcraft belt, a pouch or two. You can make out my logo on the notepad, it was pressed into cheap bit of leather and didnt come out too well. Watch this space

Your comments are welcome.

 

[Mojoracinguk]

Ahhhhh....no wasted long evenings for you then
I love it when parcels arrive with loads of little bits in....think i'd have had a 'crisis' if that landed on my doorstep

 

[Barn Owl]

You're going to have fun for sure.

As for a belt,get a ready cut strap of bridle leather off the bay.
That's what i use for belts and it's the best for it.

Costs on average c. £10 but well worth it.
3-4mm thick.

 

[MSkiba]

I got this 3.5mm leather, and an Awl, but no way will the awl penetrate the leather! I had to resort to usign a hammer, and as you can guess I bent the awl. How do you guys do it ?

 

[SCOMAN]

After using the overstitch wheel I use a small 1 - 2mm drill bit and electric screwdriver to make all the holes and either stitch using the awl or by hand.

 

[MSkiba]

but for saddle stick you need diamond shape holes not circular? Correct me if Im wrong here.

 

[shaggystu]

but for saddle stick you need diamond shape holes not circular? Correct me if Im wrong here.

people use diamond shaped holes because they look a bit neater, but that's the only difference AFAIK, i always use round holes for saddle stitch and mine seems to work ok

stuart

 

[MSkiba]

thank you. I think i was following instructions a bit too strict. Wiggling the awl (instructions menton not to) seems to work.

 

[drewdunnrespect]

looking good ski and yes most definatly will be having fun

 

[paulnb57]

I dampen (case) the leather and push the awl through using a thick scrap of leather underneath - make sure you dampen all the leather tho or else you will end up with water stains...........................
Paul

 

[MSkiba]

Thanks, that helped a lot managed to get my stiching under control, will posts some pics of what Ive come up with so far.

Question, how long should I leave the leather to dry after dyeing? It seems the leather has soaked all the dye up and I can touch it without any coming off, seems dry to me and I would like to apply some Carnauba creme. What is best practice?

 

[Toadflax]

I tend to leave the leather overnight after dying, but that is based on wetting the leather before dying. I found that with the Fiebings dyes, if I dyed dry leather, they all came out the same colour - light brown came out dark, mid brown came out dark, etc. When wetting the leather first (i.e. two minutes under water) the colours come out much nearer the description on the bottle. I also tend to buff the dyed leather with a cloth before waxing, to take off any loose dye, but, even so, waxing does always (in my experience) still lift off some dye.

I have had better results with the Fiebings Pro dye.


Geoff

 

[Black Sheep]

Hi Ski,

I use a round awl and have no problem pushing it through up to 20mm thickness leather on my axe covers

I'll be at Middlewood also, if you find me I'll see what help and advice I can give you?


Richard

 

[MSkiba]

*bows to blacksheep" I am not worthy!

Your going to wish you never said that, I will start a long list of questions

 

[Black Sheep]

*bows to blacksheep" I am not worthy!

Your going to wish you never said that, I will start a long list of questions

No worries I'll be the one dress in OG, carring a knife and camping among the trees

Richard

 

[MSkiba]

Well, its only been two days but here is a quick preview of what I managed to make out of the goodies delivered in my original post.

Bare in mind I was experimenting =)

 

[DaveBromley]

very nice mate you've come a long way!

Its amazing how the right tools make SUCH a difference, really well done!

Dave

 

[rancid badger]

people use diamond shaped holes because they look a bit neater, but that's the only difference AFAIK, i always use round holes for saddle stitch and mine seems to work ok

stuart

The idea of the diamond awl, is to create diagonal stitch holes, so that your stitches are stronger.

They do of course look neater but that's a bonus!

In all honesty; the best anyone can do when setting out in this game, is to buy "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" by Al Stohlman.
It covers all the basics, explaining it all simply and clearly. It'll save you quite a bit of money in wasted project attempts, which is what you end up with if you do it all by guess work.

Drilling stitch holes is for philistines!!!:yikes:



RB

 

[MSkiba]

here is my latest for the F1, let me know what you think, this leatherworking is addictive!

Also, once the family got wind of this hobby they all want a belt each now!

Sorry for the low quality pic's, no daylight + shiny leather = pain to photo.

 

[Tadpole]

If you got your diamond shaped awl from le Prevo, you'll find it is kind of blunt, I sharpened mine, and it will go through 9mm just a tad too easy now. Make a stitching pony, that will help with nearly all projects, oh and don't cheat when it comes to saddle stitch, get in to a good habit now, and over time it will get easier (and quicker Al Stohlman number one tip).