Sheaths for axes

leon-1

Full Member
There are a couple more pictures to add on the making of the template, but this is pretty much the lot.

Supplies and tools that can be used are;

1X piece of 5mm thick leather A4 sized.
1X piece of 2.5mm thick leather 10cm square.
One heavy duty press stud.
Waxed thread.
PVA glue.
Awl / Punch or a drill and the relevant bits.
Overstitch Wheel.
2 Needles.
A sharp knife (craft or stanley type).
A sanding block and sand paper.
Leather dye (only if the leather is natural colour).
Resolene.
Hammer or vice.
Clamps of one form or another.

Firstly you will require to make a template for the sheath and lay it onto the required thickness of leather (5mm).

templateonleather2kf.jpg


Mark the template onto the leather so that you have three peices including the two inserts for the ends. The inserts will need to be about 10-15mm in depth along thier total length.

templatemarkedout6dk.jpg


Cut the pieces out place three grooves in the top of the sheath running its length and then dye them. At this point you will need to cut a triangle out of the 2.5mm thick leather and dye that as well (this will form the flap).

piecescutout5lh.jpg


Chamfer the edge that the flap will be attached to and glue the flap to the inside.

flapbeinggluedinplace8eh.jpg


The flap once glued and stitched is then marked for the placement of the press stud.

flapstitchedandmarkedforstud1k.jpg


I drilled a hole for the stud and and countersunk the stud on the 5mm thickness of leather due to the thickness of leather that the stud was capable of fitting.

drillingandcountersinking9dl.jpg


I then used a vice to crimp the stud in place on both the flap and the main body of the sheath itself.

fittingthestud7vw.jpg


I then glued the inserts for the ends in place

gluingtheinsertsinplace23ru.jpg


And clamped the whole thing together using welding clamps.

sheathbeingstuckandclamped2ra.jpg


I grooved the area to be stitched at the edges edges using a stitch groover and marked the holes to be drilled with the overstitch wheel.

groovedandmarkedfordrilling5vw.jpg


I drilled the holes using a 0.75mm drill bit in a pillar drill (if you are going to drill the holes by hand I would suggest a larger drill bit of around 1-1.5mm).

afterdrilling3my.jpg


After drilling I grooved the reverse side of the axe sheath so the stitching would not be proud of the leather and then saddle stitched it all in place.

stitching2cy.jpg


To finish the stitching off I use a surgeon not and melt the braided waxed thread in on itself.

finishedstitching6eg.jpg


Once you have finished stitching you will want to finish the edges/end you can do this using a sanding block and some paper. This is a picture of the first time the axe was placed in the sheath, before I dyed the ends and resolened the sheath to make it water resistant.

axeisheath2ij.jpg


This is the Axe sheath after having been re-dyed and edged.

sheathedgedandredyed3pc.jpg


This is the finished article showing the Edge end of the sheath and the Poll end in the first picture and then a final picture of the side view.

edgeandpoll3gx.jpg


finishedsheath9di.jpg


So that is the finished article.
 

scanker

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 15, 2005
2,326
24
52
Cardiff, South Wales
It might be obvious that I've never made any sheaths before, so be gentle! :)
Why've you used a separate piece of leather for the flap, rather than cutting it all from one big piece? Is it so it's thinner and more flexible? Will 5mm leather not bend over?

It looks great, thanks. I might have to re-think the plastic monstrosity on my Fiskars axe!
 

leon-1

Full Member
scanker said:
It might be obvious that I've never made any sheaths before, so be gentle! :)
Why've you used a separate piece of leather for the flap, rather than cutting it all from one big piece? Is it so it's thinner and more flexible? Will 5mm leather not bend over?

It looks great, thanks. I might have to re-think the plastic monstrosity on my Fiskars axe!

I hadn't made a sheath for an axe before this one so a lot of it was off the cuff, so in answer to your question there were a couple of answers.

Yes, I used the thinner 2.5mm because it was more flexible and it did not need to be as thick as say the walls since the cutting edge would not really be coming into contact with it.

Secondly, try getting a press stud that will fit through 5mm leather, even using 2.5mm you may actually have to partially countersink it (a 13mm drill bit will do that if you require to).

Thanks for asking because you have reminded me about one of the pictures that I haven't got in the tutorial (drilling and countersinking), I'll ammend it a little later on with the remainder of the pictures that need to go up.

I'll also put up pictures of why I made the sheath.:D
 

oetzi

Settler
Apr 25, 2005
813
2
64
below Frankenstein castle
leon-1 said:
The sheath looks pretty good there mate, how long did it take to make one:)
Leon, thats a great sheat of yours with an interesting shape and a very nice colour (which one from which Brand?)!
The one for the 1300 was fast and easy, just three hours. This because I had only a simply folded piece of leather for the head of the axe and to sew the straps is very easy. Please note that I skivved these straps down and there are two parallel seams and not one (continously) u-shaped around the end. :D
With the other one, it took me over an hour more because of the complexity of the one-piece design. Have a look at the pic showing the inside of the leather:
the two v-shaped gauges and the vertical one below are to ensure a very snug fit of the wet-formed leather around the front of the head,
the two on the left are likewise for a tight fit of the flap, which is only fastened with a brass button,
the two horizontal ones show that one always has to double- and triplecheck every measurement. They are for the placement of the welt and the first was done wrongly (too high) and had to be placed further down upon detection.
 

Longstrider

Settler
Sep 6, 2005
990
12
59
South Northants
Leon, "Line 24" pop studs from Tandy will fit to 5mm leather no problem if you want some to do this with. I like them because of their positive "snap" and good grip when closed. So many of the smaler pop studs I've used in the past come apart far too easily for my liking, but these ones really are good bits of kit. Very much worth while buying the correct setting tool for them as well as it makes a really neat job of the "rivet" on the stud.
 

leon-1

Full Member
Thanks Longstrider, the ones I have are a good size with a good positive snap, but the length is a little short and being a little short on cash at the time I had nothing else I could use.

It also comes in as a helpfull reminder to anyone that for some reason cannot get ones with longer stems, as a way around it.:)
 

BCUK Shop

We have a a number of knives, T-Shirts and other items for sale.

SHOP HERE