Saw blade guard? Any suggestions?

[Handmade Matt]

I'm wanting to pack my bow saw into a kit bag and I would like some sort of guard on the blade.
I do a lot of leather work and was considering making a wet formed leather contraption but I think it's overkill.

Any suggestions for things I might have lying around the workshop that could serve as a blade guard? I was thinking an old bike inner tube wrapped around and around but the rubber's not thick enough, it would just get pierced.

What do you all do?
All the best.

 

[British Red]

On of those "poster hangers" athena used to sell (showing my age now). Just slides over the teeth and can be cut to length

 

[wingstoo]

Do you have a stationery store near by?

If you do have a look for the loose leaf clips you can get for binding pages together.

I'll look for a link

 

[wingstoo]

Have a look here

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&...vpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_6yv64iqzic_b

 

[Shewie]

Some blades will coil up inside a billy can, the ones I have are too stiff for that though. My Duluth saw folds down so the blade is enclosed but for a spare I use the paper slides the chaps have already mentioned.

 

[wingstoo]

Or a bowsaw blade guard

http://www.forestschooltraining.co.uk/webshop/tools/bowsaw-blade-guards/

 

[hiho]

Or a bowsaw blade guard

http://www.forestschooltraining.co.uk/webshop/tools/bowsaw-blade-guards/

my cheapo bowsaw come with one of them. I used a piece of broom handle in the garage before with a cut down the middle and a bit of wire holding it on

 

[hedgerowpete]

mine used to get put in a tuna tin after it was cleaned out

 

[Biker]

Hi, when I made my take down saw I cut a slot in the cross bar and set the blade and a spare on in there, like so: Hope the image is clear enough.

 

[TimD]

Quick and easy way to do it is cable trunking.
It's cheap and easy and if Scouts burn/hide/lose it, easy enough to replace.

Tim D

 

[Handmade Matt]

Thanks everyone. Lots of great ideas.

That looks great Biker.
Nice work.
Do you have any pictures of it built up?

I'm making one myself, a friend has given me some offcuts of Oak from his workshop.
It won't be ready for my trip tomorrow though so I'm taking my normal commercial metal saw.

 

[FGYT]

buy a silky big boy 2000 it folds into the handle is quick n easy to deploy is as fast or faster than a bow saw and more versitile with no frame to get in the way
ATB
Duncan

 

[Handmade Matt]

buy a silky big boy 2000 it folds into the handle is quick n easy to deploy is as fast or faster than a bow saw and more versitile with no frame to get in the way
ATB
Duncan

It's also £50 to £60 with spare blades costing about half of that. Bow saws work great for me. Call me old fashioned. I'm looking forward to finishing my Oak buck saw and using that.
I think a silky is good if you need it in your back pocket half way up a tree working commercially. I however have the time to relax and build up a wooden saw that I have made myself and relax into cutting the wood.
Additionally with a bow saw I can use two hands either side of the blade.

Both have merits but I know what suits me.
Thanks for the suggestion though

 

[Dave Budd]

a length of hose pipe works too

 

[FGYT]

a length of hose pipe works too

and as a saw blade cover :twak:

 

[Handmade Matt]

a length of hose pipe works too

Nice suggestion.

 

[mountainm]

A document binding spine. Not the spirally ones but the sprung plastic ones.

Like these
http://www.ukofficedirect.co.uk/durable-spine-bars-for-80-prd_415967.aspx

 

[Man of Tanith]

mors kochanski recommends haivng a belt you can fit the blade in
but i tihnk he is talking about when ou plan to make the frame on site, tis on my list of things to do

 

[forestwalker]

My old Swedish army bowsaw has a wooden guard. A strip cut from a tounge-and-grove board (i.e. the grove edge), a couple of pieces of cord, and Robert is your fathers brother. If you have the tools you could deepen the grove a bit, but it should work as is.

 

[mr dazzler]

When I did a lot of saw refurbing, the first thing I did after completing the clean up, set, sharpen, tune etc, was to make a blade guard from a piece of roofing lath or similar aprox 2x1. Just cut to the same length as the blade, then use the saw to cut basically a kerf-width groove down the centre about a 1/2 inch depth. Then I used pieces of inner tubing (cut like heavy duty rubber bands) to hold the guard onto the blade. It doesnt hurt to have a trace of oil/wax in the groove to deter rust.