Try Ballistol, then you are 100% safe. You can use it to soften your old cracked nails and skin.
Smells great too!
rust inhibitors?
- Thread starter Forest fella
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Try Ballistol, then you are 100% safe. You can use it to soften your old cracked nails and skin.
Smells great too!
I buy ours in the US, the ‘standard’ gun shops. In UK, a local gun and hunting shop.
Not sure about Canada.
Edit: I checked and Canadian Tire has it.
Not sure about Canada.
Edit: I checked and Canadian Tire has it.
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My local gunshop hadn't evem heard of balistol (mind you, they ard a pretty rubbish little shop!), but theh have Remington gun oil which is also pretty good though doughtful food safe. I've had balistol via the interweb in the past and it is goid, though i don't like the smell myself
I need to hit Canadian Tire for a new hunting jacket and some fuzzy lined gloves.
It was +2C when I was up at 7 today. Using coffee for joint lube again.
Freak major 30-50cm snowfall all down south along the Rockies this weekend and into Mon/Tues.
Sure guarantee of fresh tracking when you're ready to go out in it.
It was +2C when I was up at 7 today. Using coffee for joint lube again.
Freak major 30-50cm snowfall all down south along the Rockies this weekend and into Mon/Tues.
Sure guarantee of fresh tracking when you're ready to go out in it.
Ballistol doesn't seem to be that common in the UK, very popular in the US and Europe. I'm not overly keen on the smell but it seems to work.
that's what I'd noticed too. I was given a half bottle years ago and aside from buying a small bottle on the net a little while after that, I've not tried very hard to find it
Some handtools are perfectly fine being carbon steel (I still find the term Carbon Steel to be misleading as it suggests that carbon is the only aloying element, it isnt) and just dont get the chance to rust.
My hammer isn't stainless but its in my hand hundreds of times every day so it never gets the chance to rust, its worn off.
Some tools don't get used as often but have and need a good sharp edge, handplanes for instance. They get away with not having stainless steel blades cos they are commonly used on dry timber.
Which brings me round to knives. Sharp edge and often used on wet wood/meat/fruit/whatever.
There are some very good stainless steels out there nowadays, not just that gummy Whitby blade crap we had in the 80s.
Don't just discount them cos Saint Ray said they couldn't be sharpened as sharp waay back in the 80s, what do you think double edge razor blades are made from?
Is stainless steel the answer to everything? Naah, don't be daft.
But is it quite handy in knife blades? Buy some carbon steel and stainless Moras and actually try em out for yourself.
You might find percieved wisdom isnt that wise after all.
My hammer isn't stainless but its in my hand hundreds of times every day so it never gets the chance to rust, its worn off.
Some tools don't get used as often but have and need a good sharp edge, handplanes for instance. They get away with not having stainless steel blades cos they are commonly used on dry timber.
Which brings me round to knives. Sharp edge and often used on wet wood/meat/fruit/whatever.
There are some very good stainless steels out there nowadays, not just that gummy Whitby blade crap we had in the 80s.
Don't just discount them cos Saint Ray said they couldn't be sharpened as sharp waay back in the 80s, what do you think double edge razor blades are made from?
Is stainless steel the answer to everything? Naah, don't be daft.
But is it quite handy in knife blades? Buy some carbon steel and stainless Moras and actually try em out for yourself.
You might find percieved wisdom isnt that wise after all.
Remington Oil is not a good oil for guns, it has some weird properties. Gums up, difficult to sto get soft and remove.
We use it quite a lot, but mainly in the barrels.
It is the only gun oil we can buy locally, so we save the 'good stuff' for more critical areas.
Knife steels - I have not had a bad knife ( Made in Europe) for decades.
Dislike the modern powder steels though. Difficult to get sharp.
Does Morakniv still make the Laminated steel blades? Those were oiutstanding.
We use it quite a lot, but mainly in the barrels.
It is the only gun oil we can buy locally, so we save the 'good stuff' for more critical areas.
Knife steels - I have not had a bad knife ( Made in Europe) for decades.
Dislike the modern powder steels though. Difficult to get sharp.
Does Morakniv still make the Laminated steel blades? Those were oiutstanding.
Mora 171 and 172 are farrier's crooked hoof-trimming knives, in right and left pairs.
Made of some sort of stainless steel. Not very hard but they do hold a good edge.
I have modified and rehafted several pairs for wood carving.
There's far harder steel in such knives (Hall/Canada) but the Mora steel seems rust-free.
I haven't done anything special with any of the ones I have and rust isn't an issue at all.
Made of some sort of stainless steel. Not very hard but they do hold a good edge.
I have modified and rehafted several pairs for wood carving.
There's far harder steel in such knives (Hall/Canada) but the Mora steel seems rust-free.
I haven't done anything special with any of the ones I have and rust isn't an issue at all.
Sandviken's Best .....
So good even Japanese knife smiths value it highly.
I checked the (very difficult) Morakniv site, and I do not think they make the laminated blades anymore???
I have a Kiritsuke ( Jap. kitchen knife) that is laminated. S/s on the outside, High Carbon steel as core.
Only a few millimeters are exposed of the Carbon steel.
Fantastic idea. More manufacturers should do that combo.
So good even Japanese knife smiths value it highly.
I checked the (very difficult) Morakniv site, and I do not think they make the laminated blades anymore???
I have a Kiritsuke ( Jap. kitchen knife) that is laminated. S/s on the outside, High Carbon steel as core.
Only a few millimeters are exposed of the Carbon steel.
Fantastic idea. More manufacturers should do that combo.
Controlled oxidization.
Wrap blade with tissue paper and soak with vinegar.
Leave overnight and wipe off in morning, should be nice shade of grey to black.
Then just use it.
Of course if it's a drawer queen you might want to ignore that advice.
Wrap blade with tissue paper and soak with vinegar.
Leave overnight and wipe off in morning, should be nice shade of grey to black.
Then just use it.
Of course if it's a drawer queen you might want to ignore that advice.
I've taken to using ACF50, designed for aviation use and commonly used for motorbikes. Other products are intended to do a similar job (xcp) but I don't have personal experience.
