Random question for when the time comes...

[Lister]

What the best way to sharpen a Bahco Laplander? looking at the teeth, they seem to have 45^ angle/bevel(?) on the teeth, i would assume a file of sorts?

Also, what type of grind is on the Mora Companion 840MG? says "Full flat grind" on Amazon and looking at it, it's looks like > When it comes to sharpening or just touching up, want to make sure i take the right approach to it, I've got a DC4 specially for it, whether or not that makes any difference i don't know lmao

 

[andyn]

Personally I don't think the bacho saws are really designed to be sharpened. They take a lot of use before they begin to dull off.

The mora knives have a scandi (scandinavian) grind on them, so just a single beval. The dc4 is fine for touch ups when out and about. But would suggest a set of bench stones such as water stones to get a good finish on it. Then when you are out you will mostly only need to strop the knife on a leather strip to help keep a good edge. Then you'll only need the dc4 for nicks our if out for prolonged durations.

Sure there are heaps of posts on how to sharpen so won't cover that.


Have fun.

 

[Lister]

Cheers for that Andy, think i'll get myself in the habit of stropping it before/after use (the mora), just to keep it in sharp.

 

[DavidJT]

I think it's possible to buy replacement blades for the Laplander, but should last ages...

http://www.raymears.com/Bushcraft_Product/98-Bahco-Laplander-Folding-Saw-Replacement-Blade/

 

[HillBill]

Yeah they sell replacement blades for them, but its possible to get a whole new saw for similar price if you shop around.

I've had mine 5+ years, and its still on its first blade, though its becoming an effort to cut through anything decent sized so i think its time for a replacement.

 

[vizsla]

Im on my second laplander blade which has been in for about 2 years and the previous one lasted id say 3 or 4 years. Cracking saws for the money i doupt it would be possible to sharpen them to there original standard though

 

[crosslandkelly]

You can't sharpen the Laplander blades as they are hardened teeth, they will more than likely snap off, like most hard point saws.
Colin.

 

[JJJ]

Sorry but you can sharpen most saws, it is just yet another forgotten skill .Lost because saws are now, like most things ,disposable. Once a saw was such a large investment, that if you couldn't sharpen it , you would take it to a saw doctor , who would do it for you.
The Bahco green wood blade come with a symbol and the word 'Fileable' . A modern word , to remind the modern world the obvious.
It's much easier than it sounds, as people who suddenly dare to run a file over their chainsaw blade , do declare! A couple of light strokes on each cutting surface and the jobs a good un!
It's hard to go wrong the first few times, if you are slightly off the angle, it only becomes a problem as the mistake is compounded.
A Bahco blade dulls sometimes with in a month for me, but then its used most days. Therefore even if I was not very accurate , using a file would make sense.
As it happens , I don't use a file anymore. A quick dip in Ferric Chloride does the job. Fantastic, as good as new results in minutes. Brick cleaner might work ( Hydrochloric Acid) but its diluted so would take longer. I use " ferric" to etch out hamons or patterns on Suminagashi, Wrought iron or Damascus steel, but its sold in Maplins for etching circuit boards.
I use my DC4 alot, only resorting back to Japanese waterstones for a major resharpen. I saw one of the third generation ones for the first time, last week, and will no longer be as willing to say " keep it " to someone admiring it.
Good luck and by the way the idea of using ferric on saws wasn't mine ,it came from Chris Grant.

 

[crosslandkelly]

Sorry but you can sharpen most saws, it is just yet another forgotten skill .Lost because saws are now, like most things ,disposable. Once a saw was such a large investment, that if you couldn't sharpen it , you would take it to a saw doctor , who would do it for you.
The Bahco green wood blade come with a symbol and the word 'Fileable' . A modern word , to remind the modern world the obvious.
It's much easier than it sounds, as people who suddenly dare to run a file over their chainsaw blade , do declare! A couple of light strokes on each cutting surface and the jobs a good un!
It's hard to go wrong the first few times, if you are slightly off the angle, it only becomes a problem as the mistake is compounded.
A Bahco blade dulls sometimes with in a month for me, but then its used most days. Therefore even if I was not very accurate , using a file would make sense.
As it happens , I don't use a file anymore. A quick dip in Ferric Chloride does the job. Fantastic, as good as new results in minutes. Brick cleaner might work ( Hydrochloric Acid) but its diluted so would take longer. I use " ferric" to etch out hamons or patterns on Suminagashi, Wrought iron or Damascus steel, but its sold in Maplins for etching circuit boards.
I use my DC4 alot, only resorting back to Japanese waterstones for a major resharpen. I saw one of the third generation ones for the first time, last week, and will no longer be as willing to say " keep it " to someone admiring it.
Good luck and by the way the idea of using ferric on saws wasn't mine ,it came from Chris Grant.

Not a forgoten skill, I sharpen my crosscut, tennon and ripsaws regulary. The problem with modern hardpoint saws, is that you cant set the teeth because of the tempering of the steel at the tooth line. The teeth tend to ping off. It may be possible to touch up the points, but eventualy you need to reset the teeth or the saw will just stick in the cut. Like everything today, saws are not designed to be user repaired and are just disposable. I've not heard of the acid trick before, it sounds interesting. Cheer's.
Colin.

 

[robevs73]

Throw it in the bin and buy another, they are cheap on Amazon.