Protecting saws and other tools from rust

[mrcharly]

My workshop space is permanently damp and all tools stored in there are prone to rust.
The scythe, sickle and billhook seem to survive ok, with a bit of cleaning.
Knives and chisels aren't too bad, just clean them up now and then.

The real problem is with saws. I have some nice hand saws and a bow saw. These rust dreadfully.

Any hints on what I can do? Coating them in wax would seem to be a bad idea, because that will transfer to the wood. Storing them in sheep fleeces? I could line the tray under the worktop in fleece (they cost under £4 here for a small fleece).

 

[Bearmont]

Whatever you put on the saws will transfer to the wood, but you gotta put something on. Mineral oil like Ballistol works fine. Or petroleum jelly / vaseline if you prefer something viscous that you can wipe off again before using the saw.

Putting the rust-prone tools in an airtight container with a dessicant like rice grains can also work. I don't know about sheep fleeces. Doesn't that not just bind but attract moisture too? For that same reason, storing knives in leather sheaths can be a bad idea.

 

[Van-Wild]

Vaseline. Kept my parang perfect for weeks at a time in the jungle.

 

[Ystranc]

My workshop space is permanently damp and all tools stored in there are prone to rust.
The scythe, sickle and billhook seem to survive ok, with a bit of cleaning.
Knives and chisels aren't too bad, just clean them up now and then.

The real problem is with saws. I have some nice hand saws and a bow saw. These rust dreadfully.

Any hints on what I can do? Coating them in wax would seem to be a bad idea, because that will transfer to the wood. Storing them in sheep fleeces? I could line the tray under the worktop in fleece (they cost under £4 here for a small fleece).

Libron do a wax that is specifically for saws, I never had any issue with it transferring to timber.

 

[R_Fonseca]

I have the same issue. Everything has a Liberal coating of 3 in 1 when hung up. Other stuff goes in a waterproof plastic container with lots of silica gel packets. Annoying problem... I can't keep rust off my hand planes, even with a lot of oil... saws are fine for some reason.

Wonder if damp traps will help

 

[Ystranc]

I find wax is better than oil in this way as well because every little bit of dust and crap in the air seems to gravitate to the oily surface and build up whereas lubricant wax isn’t sticky

 

[Toddy]

WD40.
I use it for tools, locks, gardening stuff and my clothes line stretchers too.

Spray it on, give it a wipe, hang up tools.
Only if they're very rusty will you get that on something else that touches them.

 

[Mesquite]

 

[Dave Budd]

my workshop is very damp and rust is a permanent feature of every single thing in it!

Tools that get used frequently have a wipe with oil. The type doesn't seem to matter a great deal; I've tried everything from posh oils like Jade and Balistol to basic 3-in-1 and wd40. Though the heavier ones do tend to be better in the workshop than the lighter ones simply because they are more of a barrier when it comes to dust settling on the blade, which acts as a wick for moisture. Mostly I use duck oil from a squirty bottle rather than an aerosol like wd40 because it lays thicker.

Tools that don't get used often get lanoguard sprayed on them, it sets into a waxy film after a few days. Waxes like the Libron stuff are good, but a real pain to apply to something with teeth like a saw. I do use the waxes on machine beds though and it sorta works

Mostly though, after being in a wet workshop for many years, I can say that whatever you use won't be 100% effective, so suck it up and clean rust off when you need to!

For hand saws that are nice, you could use the waxes on the blades or run the teeth through a candle to keep the cutting edges clean. Don't worry about transfer, many old school woodworkers recommend waxing saws to make them cut more easily anyway

 

[slowworm]

I have the same problem, fine tools live in the house.

I find if I clean a tool it'll rust faster. I have a machete for example that has a nice blackish patina and doesnt rust much even when wet. I picked up another one 2nd hand and it was rusty but after giving it a good clean it's just gone rusty again.

So, I wondered if I could use anything to give it a similar protective patina, something like a simple bluing?

 

[Van-Wild]

I have the same problem, fine tools live in the house.

I find if I clean a tool it'll rust faster. I have a machete for example that has a nice blackish patina and doesnt rust much even when wet. I picked up another one 2nd hand and it was rusty but after giving it a good clean it's just gone rusty again.

So, I wondered if I could use anything to give it a similar protective patina, something like a simple bluing?

https://www.tophamknifeco.com/how-to-force-a-patina/

 

[Robbi]

Check out acf50 on YouTube

Probably the best anti corrosion you can get.

 

[forrestdweller]

Vaseline. Kept my parang perfect for weeks at a time in the jungle.

guess i've to put unscented vaseline on my shopping list now -- living in a rainforest makes tool maintenance very important... (i've good results with the type of grease locals use on bicycle chains and for moving machinery parts, too)

 

[stonepark]

Short term storage (used on a monthly basis or less), wd40, gt85 etc.

Long-term storage I use motor cycle spray on chain wax.

 

[British Red]

I live in the Fens & store tools

Axes by British Red, on Flickr

I just keep a kilo jar of off brand petroleum jelly and wipe everything over. As Dave Budd says you will get the odd spots of surface rust. I keep wire wool to clean it off with.

 

[Van-Wild]

guess i've to put unscented vaseline on my shopping list now -- living in a rainforest makes tool maintenance very important... (i've good results with the type of grease locals use on bicycle chains and for moving machinery parts, too)

Just smear a light layer on. Pay attention to where the blade contacts the opening of the sheath if it has a metal lip, as contact rust will form there. I had a locally made parang which had a wooden sheath, so luckily I didn't have any contact rust issues..... . Obvs need to reapply often, especially after use or if you've crossed a river during that day (as if that ever happens........ )

 

[mrcharly]

Thanks, all.
I'll try the candle trick after I've sharpened and set the saws, they are in dire need of attention.
Will also make rag/can oiler.

 

[TLM]

Hmmm ... I have a faint recollection that someone used carnauba wax for corrosion protection, maybe his point was that it is in its pure form edible. As waxes go it is fairly hard so it might remain on some surfaces longer than some softer ones.

Our climate does not require much protection but when going fishing to the sea I use stainless knives and just keep my tools in a dry place.

 

[Pattree]

.. I have a faint recollection that someone used carnauba wax for corrosion protection, maybe his point was that it is in its pure form edible. As waxes go it is fairly hard so it might remain on some surfaces longer than some softer ones.

That would make an old school sort of sense. The first DIY tv show that I remember was hosted by a guy called Barry Bucknell. He recommended using carnauba wax to lubricate saws and keep them bright. Our saws required sharpening and were not stainless. They tended to jam much more easily than modern saws. I still have my old Eclipse saw-set tool but not many folk knew how to sharpen. They just kept pushing.

I’ve got some carnauba somewhere. It was a release agent for candle making. I’ll try it on my carbon Opinel.

 

[Tantalus]

I keep a can of spray grease in the shed and all tools get a squirt when I put them back in.

This bit about transferring oil and or grease to the work is a little OTT in my opinion, unless you are making high class furniture, but if you are still worried about it there is a very simple solution. Just use the tools on a scrap piece of wood first before using on your work proper, that way any oil or grease that is likely to transfer, has already gone before you start.

Bow saw blades are easy replaced anyway, the handsaws might be better kept in a safe spot inside the house.