Pole-Lathe

  • Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.

jon r

Native
Apr 7, 2006
1,197
9
34
England, midlands
www.jonsbushcraft.com
I went to a fair not long ago and a man was demonstrating the use of a pole lathe. Then on TV the other day there was that program about the Ash tree and they made chair legs on a pole lathe. I was inspired!

So i want to make one!

I got this book off Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/The-Pole-Lath...ryZ29332QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Its got all the plans and i am going to have a go when i have got the time and wood.

Anyone got a pole lathe?
 

spamel

Banned
Feb 15, 2005
6,833
21
48
Silkstone, Blighty!
I'm pretty sure Eric is the man you want here!! He is all up on this sort of thing and his work looks fantastic. I'm sure he'll be along soon!
 

bent-stick

Settler
Aug 18, 2006
558
12
71
surrey
www.customarchery.net
Sadly I don't have the space. I've been looking at some more compact designs using bows and bungees.

I watched a man from using a bow lathe at the south band north african event this summer. The chisel was steered by his right foot. His left foot kept the moving stop in place. He turned a twig into a carved spindle in about 5 minutes including some captive rings. Fascinating.

Would be the day I forgot my camera.
 

chrisanson

Nomad
Apr 12, 2006
390
7
60
Dudley
they are not that hard to make. i made one for a school about 20 years ago and its now in one of the hebridean islands apparently!! but if you look at some web site’s you will find that they are quit simple in design . The only hard thing about using one is getting used to only cutting on the down stroke. After that it’s a pleasure to smell the green wood !
Chris
 

Eric_Methven

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 20, 2005
3,600
42
73
Durham City, County Durham
I've had my pole lathe at a couple of the Scottish meets and it was very popular with everyone there. I've nearly finished making my bowl lathe so I can knock out some bowls and wooden plates for next season. The bowl lathe works the same as the more traditional spindle lathe except the bed is lower and the poppets are taller to allow larger rounds of wood to be turned. The bowls are turned with a bowl hook.

Once you get the lathe built give me a shout if you want some proper pole lathe chisels. I have a couple of sets for sale still. In any case just ask if you have any questions - either on here or by PM.

Eric
 

Eric_Methven

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 20, 2005
3,600
42
73
Durham City, County Durham
I believe it is false economy to get cheap ones. Besides, cheap ones don't keep their edge very well. The ones I have are made by Ashley Isles and are regarded as 'professional' quality tools. To start you'll need a roughing out gouge, a straight chisel (2" wide), maybe a spindle gouge if you want to do anything fancy like chair legs. You'll also need a skew chisel, but maybe not straight away.

The roughing out gouge costs £25.50
The straight chisel costs £24.50
The spindle gouge costs £20.50
The skew chisel costs £20.50

These are the prices I sell them for at craft fairs so there'll be postage on top of that dependant on where you live.

PM me if you're interested. I'll take photos if you wish.

Eric
 

Eric_Methven

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 20, 2005
3,600
42
73
Durham City, County Durham
Yea, they ain't cheap but you get what you pay for.

One way to get started though is to look for a wide, straight chisel with a decent edge on it at a car boot fair. Look for one with a traditional wooden handle, either tanged, or socketed and remove the old short handle. Make a new handle about fourteen inches long and replace with this.

Alternatively get a blade from a plane and attach it to a handle with a small bolt through the hole in the blade. You'll still need a roughing out gouge though as that's the tool you use first and foremost to make the rough billet into a nice round billet. One way to get round this is to find a piece of high carbon steel tubing about two inches in diameter and about six inches long (scrap yard for this). Use an angle grinder to cut it in half lenghtways then grind an outside bevel on one of the ends. Grind down the other end to a taper that will match your handle. Stick the sharpened end in a portable barbecue and turn a hair drier on it so it gets nice and hot. Get about four inches cherry red then using a pair of mole grips, dip the first inch only into a bucket of water for a second or two. Remove quickly then brush the edge you've just dipped with a wire brush vigorously so you can see the metal. You'll notice the colours start to change as the heat from the remaining three inches of red hot metal start to creep into the cooled portion. When you see a purple band of colour reach the edge, quench again, this time the whole thing and leave it until cool to the touch.

This process should have given you a hardened working edge to your gouge and you can finish off the edge by hand with a whet stone to a razor edge. Then attach your handle and you have a roughing out gouge.

That's basically all you need to get started. I'd not recommend the cheap and nasty lathe tool sets made for power lathes. They are not sharp enough and they don't hold an edge at all so you'd be forever sharpening them. I've found by experience that they tend to put more people off pole lathe turning than any other reason, simply because they can't get a decent finish with them. Beginners tend to think they are doing something wrong and give up, when in fact it's the tools they are trying to work with that are the problem.

Eric
 

jon r

Native
Apr 7, 2006
1,197
9
34
England, midlands
www.jonsbushcraft.com
that sounds like great advice! thankyou very much! The roughing gouge made from steel tube sounds like a cool idea. I think i will buy some new ones first from somewhere though before i go into production. I dont even have my lathe parts yet so i will get that made first.
 

jon r

Native
Apr 7, 2006
1,197
9
34
England, midlands
www.jonsbushcraft.com
i just had a cool idea! :rolleyes:

how about a push bike pedal driven lathe. you could have different gears and everything. I know its not strictly bushcraft but i thought i would run the idea past you guys!! :D

The wood would only turn in one direction too! :eek:
 

Eric_Methven

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 20, 2005
3,600
42
73
Durham City, County Durham
jon r said:
i just had a cool idea! :rolleyes:

how about a push bike pedal driven lathe. you could have different gears and everything. I know its not strictly bushcraft but i thought i would run the idea past you guys!! :D

The wood would only turn in one direction too! :eek:

Yes. It's not new though, been around for a hundred years or more.

Basically, you make the pole lathe like normal except you fit an extra leg on one end, just far enough from the outside leg to mount a bike rear wheel. Use one with a single gear and make sure the thing can free wheel if you know what i mean (I mean it shouldn't be a fixed gear wheel).

You run a bike chain from the foot treadle up and over the gear and down to a heafty spring so when you press the treadle it makes the bike wheel spin. When you lift your foot, the spring pulls the chain back again, but the free wheel gear allows the bike wheel to keep spinning. Add some lead weights to the spokes evenly distributed and it acts like a fly wheel.

So imagine your lathe, you are standing in front of it. The bike wheel is below and to the left of you. There's a chain draped over the gear connected to a hinged stick. The hinged part of the stick is attached to the base of the lathe leg on your right, so the stick goes up from bottom right to the chain maybe a foot high on your left. Behind the chain there's a spring strong enough to pull it back again (bungee would do as well). The bike wheel is heavy with all the lead flashing you've wrapped in and out of the spokes (lead flashing in a long 6" wide strip from B&Q). You lift your foot and place it on the higher part of the stick and push down. The wheel spins. You repeat that a couple of times and the wheel is going at a good pace now. It doesn't slow down quickly on account of all the lead. Now you can move your foot to the right of the stick and just push with your toes, not a lot of effort once the wheel is going, and you can just keep it spinning with a push of your toes near the right lower end of the stick.

That's the mechanics of it sorted. Now you need to find a way of transferring all that torque to the workpiece. Traditional pole lathe poppets (stocks) won't work efficiently. You need to find a proper head stock to put the work in. You can make one, scrounge an old one from a power lathe or buy one of the cheap ones from Machine Mart that are designed to work with an electric drill (probably your best bet).

You'll need to clamp the stock to your lathe bed (and screw it down as well). Then you'll need something on the piece that would normally be held in the chuck of the drill. Something a strong cord would be able to go round. Machine Mart also sell pully wheels of all sorts so you should be able to find something to fit.

Then you'll need a cord to go round the pully wheel and round the bike wheel (Of course, you did remove the tire first?) The cord can be elasticated (rubber band, old inner tube cut down and pieces glued together to make it long enough), or rope of some kind. If using rope, you'll need another pully wheel and a spring behind it to put tension on the rope so it'll grip the other wheels enough to keep the work spinning.

So, you have your lathe, a method of turning the work in one continuous direction, a method of holding the work and spinning it. The right hand poppet can have a normal pole lathe point on it and it would be best to fit the threaded crank on the right so you can tighten it on the billet without having to move the left hand headstock. After setting it all up, you really don't want to have to move it. Move the right hand popper only so it travels in and out for long or short work pieces and have a piece of threaded bar bent like a crank handle for fine tightening adjustments to hold the work.

Another advantage of using the Machine Mart head stock is you can mount a bowl plate on it and turn plates and bowls without the need for mandrels.

It was historically a natural progression for wood turners once the bike wheel was developed and once free wheeling gears appeared on the scene. I've built one and they work very well, but as I mostly do demonstrations in period costume from the middle ages, I have to stick with the traditional pole lathe. However, if history isn't important and you just want to turn wood, this is a good way to go. You get the best of both worlds. Continuous spinning and greater efficiency, without the racket of electric motors and dust masks and ear defenders etc.

I'd not worry about changing gears though, just pump faster or slower on the stick.

Hope this helps.

Eric
 

BCUK Shop

We have a a number of knives, T-Shirts and other items for sale.

SHOP HERE