Ok, lets give this a try here. Hopefully all out there can see the picture of my packpal.
Nightfall
Nightfall
Picture of Scandi grind PackPal
- Thread starter Nightfall
- Start date
That looks great Nightfall. Well done on the pics. It doesn't help the wait for mine though. 
Bill
Bill
I just noticed you are lucky that looks like the original design of packpal scandi not the modified version Allan sent pictures of last week which the rest of us are getting.
I hope ours are as good. I'm sure they will be.
Bill
I hope ours are as good. I'm sure they will be.
Bill
bushblade said:
The secondary bevel that you mentioned was talked about on BB, Allan got on there and cleared up any misconceptions about it. What you can see is where Allan has removed some of the coating off the blade, this shows up like a secondary bevel in pictures due to the contrast of colours from the stell to the coating
So if it has a zero edge, how do you sharpen it without scrubbing off the coating (or putting a secondary bevel onto it)?
Sorry for all the questions, but this coating Alan uses has me puzzled. I have he4ard that in order to get the spine to spark a ferro rod well, the coating needs to be removed.
Sorry for all the questions, but this coating Alan uses has me puzzled. I have he4ard that in order to get the spine to spark a ferro rod well, the coating needs to be removed.
Tantalus said:
Yeah, I read that tant, thanks, I was wondering if that was with the coating removed.
The coating is some oxide or other with a laquer over the top. If you put a laquer coating on something with a square corner, it'll take the bite out of the edge. So unless it's been removed, or worn through, I would think it struggles as a sparker.
If you read around, there are a number of people who had this issue with the bushcrafter, which has the same coating.
Anyway, my main question is how do you sharpen it, without scrubbing off the coating?
Good question, but as you'll probably already know, as far as I can see you can't sharpen it without putting either a secondary bevel or losing some of the coating. In the end if you look after it properly it should make little difference whether it has a coating or not.
Agreed. I know Allan does em with a brushed finish, which I think would be my choice. As far as I can see, the oxide/laquer coating might just be more hassle than it's worth.
I'm expecting to sharpen the coating off the bevel and it will just be coated on the section that doesn't contact the stone (or whatever you use to sharpen). Allan clearly stated thet it doesn't have a secondary bevel when we asked before. I think he will look in on the thread soon and maybe help with an answer.
Bill
Bill
Martyn said:
In the end I think that it may be worth talking to someone who has had one of Allans knives (with this coating on) for some time, find out what they have to say and think about it.
The guys (Sargey, Schwert or Hoodoo) must have at least one of Allans knives with this coating between them (if not the whole product range each)
.
Me gets two pretty soon (well, ...in a few weeks time that is) 
):
One standard and one original style scandi - I'll see how the sparks fly
): One standard and one original style scandi - I'll see how the sparks fly
MagiKelly
Making memories since '67
When you sharpen it the coating comes off the flat grind part of the blade but stays on the rest. It did not slow up the sharpening of my Bushcrafter and turned out not to have too much effect on my casting sparks. If you are stropping rather than using a stone it will probably take longer for the coating to come off.
As to the purpose of the coating, well at least it will stop the knifes arriving with a rusty blade, unlike some I could mention, eh Martyn?
As to the purpose of the coating, well at least it will stop the knifes arriving with a rusty blade, unlike some I could mention, eh Martyn?
Cheers John, nice to have someone with experience of the coating in question post about it. :biggthump
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