I was looking threw my knife handling supply today and noticed it was somewhat empty apart for some rather long seasoned oak strips. Should i brave them or not as i have never used oak before.
Kind regards
James
Kind regards
James
oak or not
- Thread starter jlfblacksmith
- Start date
I was looking threw my knife handling supply today and noticed it was somewhat empty apart for some rather long seasoned oak strips. Should i brave them or not as i have never used oak before.
Kind regards
James
As I understand it oak can be corrosive used next to steel , unless you use liners of course.
regards
beach bum
As oak is acidic your supposed to use either stainless or copper nails when using in exterior joinery.
Can't say I have ever made any into knife handles to know if thats much of a problem.
Oh do, but use vulc fibre spacers and BRASS fittings - the tannins corrode steel.
It is beautiful tho, especially oak burr.
The first knife I ever made was from a piece of oak burr I was given here. Must make that man a thank-you.
Give it a go and if you need any advice, shout.
It is beautiful tho, especially oak burr.
The first knife I ever made was from a piece of oak burr I was given here. Must make that man a thank-you.
Give it a go and if you need any advice, shout.
Go for the oak, it's a great handle material as it's got a lot of grip even when wet adn the colour just gets better with age There is no problem with the oak corrodingthe blade coz there should be a layer of epoxy between the two Just use stainless or non-ferrous pins
I use oak a fair bit on handles, infact when I was an archaeologist I had a couple of trowels that I re handled with oak and they take a LOT of abuse in the rain nad not getting looked after. I was using one the other day and after nearly a decade of neglect the thing is still together and there is no sign oof rust being caused by the handle.
One tip when finishing it though. get down to your final grit paper (i'd stop at 500) and then wet the handle and force dry it with a hair dryer to raise the grain. lightly sand with fresh 500 grit and repeat the cycle until the grain no longer rises. Then give a good soaking in oil and you have a fantastic handle
There is no problem with the oak corrodingthe blade coz there should be a layer of epoxy between the two Just use stainless or non-ferrous pins I use oak a fair bit on handles, infact when I was an archaeologist I had a couple of trowels that I re handled with oak and they take a LOT of abuse in the rain nad not getting looked after. I was using one the other day and after nearly a decade of neglect the thing is still together and there is no sign oof rust being caused by the handle.
One tip when finishing it though. get down to your final grit paper (i'd stop at 500) and then wet the handle and force dry it with a hair dryer to raise the grain. lightly sand with fresh 500 grit and repeat the cycle until the grain no longer rises. Then give a good soaking in oil and you have a fantastic handle
thanks guys i will get sawing at that oak and with any luck produce some real buties. Thanks for the final tip Dave.
Kind regards
James
Kind regards
James
There is no problem with the oak corrodingthe blade coz there should be a layer of epoxy between the two
Thats a very good point, never thought of that.
dwardo I think the weight is down to the amount of metal in that knife 
oak is going to be heavier than say birch (then so is air almost), but just try some of the exotics! I have a lignum handle which is quite heavy, but somebody did try and source some leadwood for one once
oak is going to be heavier than say birch (then so is air almost), but just try some of the exotics! I have a lignum handle which is quite heavy, but somebody did try and source some leadwood for one once
dwardo I think the weight is down to the amount of metal in that knife
I had all sorts to choose from and i had just finished one for a friend in spalted beech and also had some coolibah left but nothing seemed right. In the end i used an old turning blank in solid oak from under my bench and used hidden ally pins. Its a huge grip but i really wanted something i could use over the winter with gloves on
It weighs about 20 stone but is a joy to use You should see it a few seasons of bushcrafty use :sulkoff:
I had all sorts to choose from and i had just finished one for a friend in spalted beech and also had some coolibah left but nothing seemed right. In the end i used an old turning blank in solid oak from under my bench and used hidden ally pins. Its a huge grip but i really wanted something i could use over the winter with gloves on
You should see it a few seasons of bushcrafty use :sulkoff:
Coolibah?
Have seen some of that advertised, its the australian stuff that looks like bubbling hot toffee isn't it?
Been very tempted by it.
