Oak carving and finishing

[Teal]

So, I had a bit of a windfall yesterday. An oak tree came down at the end of our road and took out the electric cables. I had the day off anyway, aiming to catch up on some overdue DIY, so I was able to lurk around and make friends with the tree surgeon, and I now have a garden full of oak. I have only ever carved birch before so I have a number of questions:

1. Is it ok to retain the sapwood in the finished item? Lots of oak bowls appear "two tone" which suggests yes, but does it dry unevenly?

2. I mostly have 2-3 foot lengths of oak from 10-50cm in diameter. How long will they remain useable and what is the best way to preserve them?

3. The trendy vintage garden centres of Berkshire are awash with 'rustic' bowls. They appear to be made by cutting a lateral disk out of the trunk (so the rings are 'in' the bowl) and then hollowing. Some of them leave the bark on. These look fairly quick and simple to knock up as gifts etc; however:

a. Will they split on drying?


b. What is the best way of preserving them, especially if the bark is left on? The commercial ones I have fondled.in shops seem to be "petrified" somehow.

4. Are there any other idiosyncrasies of oak I might need to be aware of?

 

[mrcharly]

The answer to 3a is 'yes'

 

[Geebe]

I carved some spoons from green oak last year. I found it has a tendency to 'peel' as you are carving it. Very frustrating, but finishes and sands up nicely.

 

[Wayne]

I turn green oak on the pole lathe. Smells like a chip shop chips the tannic acid also blues your tools. You can get a really nice finish with a nice grain pattern.

I would remove move the bulk of the mass from the bowls as soon as possible. The greater surface area will help it season more evenly. Still likely to lose a couple to splitting.

 

[ceryni]

I heard painting the ends of the logs with glue or something of the like before storing somewhere dry helps then dry slowly and evenly without splitting.

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