New scales on the way

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
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SHROPSHIRE UK
Been a long time coming as been really busy and most of my tools are at my Dads which isn't far away but takes more effort than just popping to the shed

Really not chuffed with this!!!!!! I am really careful with stuff like this and cant understand how I chipped the blade? Was covered in card and insulation tape + only put the tang in the vice not the blade.....started to try to get it out with the diamond hone but got fed up!
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Enjoyed most of the process so far just couldn't decide what curve angle to put on the front of the scale and read I need to finish the front before glueing.
Must make more time to finish it.
Blade? Keep honing or live with it /sack it off?
Still flipping sharp! Dave
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
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Mercia
Worry not - I've put bigger dinks than that in a blade many times. If it stresses you it'll sharpen out with a diamond hone easy as pie, personally, if the knife is going to be a user, I'd wait until it needed a good sharpen anyway!

Don't worry about it - its called learning!

The man who never made a mistake never made anything!

I've not got round to making my own knife yet (being a complete klutz) so you are well ahead of me!

Red
 

Dougster

Bushcrafter through and through
Oct 13, 2005
5,254
238
The banks of the Deveron.
I've done the very same thing several times. Once was for someone else, so it was a few hours on the diamond!

If they are for me, they go after a few weeks of sharpening anyway. On the whole, that looks to be coming along nicely, have you decided on a sheath for it?
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
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OOooohh that makes me feel better (God I always sound sarcastic does the missus head in!)
I started o the hone but thought as it is gonna be a user it would come out in time!
The scales need alot more work as said but want to get the front right but still not sure about the finished thicckness of the scales (currently about 20mm + tang + liner) I guess they cane be thinned down even when glued.
As for the sheath I want to make it myself (warts and all) so need to buy the stuff :confused:
Do like the patchy dark brown black patchy dyed but other than that I nice positive fit (like the nasty mora case) and will be a happy chap.Ta
Dave
Ps just to clear up I wasn't being sarcastic just glad taint just me! that has 'moments'!!!
Just realised not said thanks for the kind offer to Red but as per I am too stubborn a git to have you sort it for me!!!
Many thanks anyway mate D
 

spamel

Banned
Feb 15, 2005
6,833
21
48
Silkstone, Blighty!
Are you sure the blade wasn't like that beefore you started? I had a whilltling knife from Frosts that had dinks like that from new, in the same position. Seems a bit of a coincidence to me!

Anyway, the toothy geometry will help with rope cutting!
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
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SHROPSHIRE UK
Not too sure but na it was prob me (numpty!!!!) There is a small dink on the blade that wasn't me deffo!!!! Oh well there cheap and just for me! D
 

brancho

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 20, 2007
3,799
745
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Whitehaven Cumbria
My Brusletto blade had a dink like that in it before I got it out of the packet.

My advice is to slow down and take your time thats the biggest thing I learned on first knife.
 

Dougster

Bushcrafter through and through
Oct 13, 2005
5,254
238
The banks of the Deveron.
If there is anything I can do to help with the sheath - small bits of thread, needles, advice etc, let me know. Don't buy big bits if you only need small - I am happy to help (I spent over a hundred on leather yesterday so you can have just enough at cost).

I think I even have a rough template for that knife which you could easily wet form.

Get in touch when you are ready.

Richard
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
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SHROPSHIRE UK
Richard I will deffo be taking you up on that offer mate,asit seems a little bit pointless to buy loads of leather etc for just this sheath.
I will give you a pm when ready and will sort you out with the wonger!!
I love this site!
Dave
Ps cant take it much slower as its already taken an age!!!
 

dwardo

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 30, 2006
6,463
492
47
Nr Chester
A good way to shape those scales without taking off too much at a time is to wrap some sandpaper in a bit of leather and use that as a shaping tool. Works well and does not scar the wood too much ;)

Good luck and that chip will come out over time, i would avoid trying to take it out now as you will end up knocking years off the knife and the chances are you will ding it gain whilst getting used to it :rolleyes:
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
55
SHROPSHIRE UK
Ta Dwardo worked that out after a few mins on the hone! Totally agree its as sharp as I will ever need and the chip doesn't affect most of the useable edge!
Ta for the tips Dave
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
55
SHROPSHIRE UK
Glued now so hopefully get it finished over the weekend!
Boiled Linseed, linseed or what?
How may coats? What grade paper to go to?
Think thats all for now.
D
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
2,143
Mercia
Boiled linseeds fine.

Several thin coats - don't get it sticky. Wait for each to dry in before repeating.

Go to 600 grit would be my feelings.

This what I would do in normal woodwork - can't see a knife handle being different.

Red
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
55
SHROPSHIRE UK
top banana! On a similar note Red looking at improving a cheap varnished axe handle with oil same procedure/grit or too slippy? D
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
2,143
Mercia
Aaah now you are talking stuff I know! Use the patent "red's improved helve" technique.

Rub off all the varnish with coarse (240) sandpaper

Then rub down with 400, then 600.

Finaly use a nylon pad or wire wool and rub really smooth.

Lay out a sheet of cling film longer than the axe

Put a double layer of kitchen towel on top. Soak the towel in your oil of choice (I use sesame oil).

Wrap the towel around the helve and the clingfilm tight over the lot.

Oilwrap.jpg


Leave for a couple of days, use the wire wool again (the oil raises the grain) and then repeat the oil wrap. This gives the effect of a full oil bath but uses minimal oil.

For a perfect finish use a tiny amount of beeswax polish and rub up.

The helve will be perfectly smooth but not slippery. You will never get another axe blister

Red
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
55
SHROPSHIRE UK
Excellent! My current 'camping' axe is rubbish and unfortunately never did spend the money on a decent axe so was looking at these.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/190351...vJOxcInvY1H4JwBcSZ2MIfCIMv2VNq1z WJ9bQPNXrg==
Yea I know what you will say but looking at your axe selection process for size etc etc with a bit of work + mask may be a option.
I know its not sexy but for mainly kinddling bit of rough carving may suffice for a while.
Dave
( While reading this message and looking at the pic Red is quietly crying to himself!)
 

demographic

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 15, 2005
4,762
786
-------------
I am not sure if I am using the right term for it but I prefer knives to have a choil cutout anyway so would take a round chainsaw file to the area thats damaged and file a half round into the blade edge.

I find that blades are simpler to sharpen without ending at the choil area by slowly widening.
Its only the diameter of the file so something like 6mm? Not one thats big enough to get a finger into like I have seen on some knives if you get my drift.
<edit> I have just hit the internet with the term Choil Cut Out and found perfect examples on a review on british blades, both the centre knife and the one on the right of the picture.

DSCN1080.jpg
 

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