Cor, doesn't it just! One of the nicest woods I think I've seen, and having had Jeannius61 as a wood mentor on BB means I've seen a good few.
My On The Bench Today Thread
- Thread starter Stuart Mitchell Knives
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Looking good! It’s always nice to watch stuff progressingLooks like two sets of bolts glued with cyanoacrylate and one set with epoxy. Is that right? If so, what is your decision maker for using one vs the other? Same glue under the scales too?
Also, I could have sworn it was you who once upon a time demonstrated using brown parcel tape and a scalpel to precisely mask the ricasso in front of scales. I have used it since and thought it a good method. Is my memory playing a trick?
That's a great memory, my friend.
Looks like two sets of bolts glued with cyanoacrylate and one set with epoxy. Is that right? If so, what is your decision maker for using one vs the other? Same glue under the scales too?
Also, I could have sworn it was you who once upon a time demonstrated using brown parcel tape and a scalpel to precisely mask the ricasso in front of scales. I have used it since and thought it a good method. Is my memory playing a trick?
All cyanoacrylate there, I suspect that the difference in appearance might be that those photos were taken at different (later) times through the day?
Rather than working on a couple or three at a time through each process, all those builds (as I call them) came with their own challenges, so I did one at a time.,
Yes, same glue under the scales too.
And yes, that was me. All the ones you see there, though, have the stonewashed finish that I have been working on sorting for a long while in the workshop; I don't need to be that precious with it. It is tough, hard-wearing, and difficult to damage. Without doubt, the best finish for a working knife blade that there is.
I also stopped using brown parcel tape years ago. Frog Tape is amazing, tough and waterproof, not cheap, but we aren't making ****, are we, so I reckon the product deserves it. It is bloody good.
You used to use parcel tape? I did initially, but got real annoyed at it leaving patches of itself over the blade. Masking tape tape for me, with bisley gun grease on the blade prior to tape application...(no specific reason for bisley, i just had a big tub of it, you dont need much) Run a sharp blade down the spine, all comes off easily, but yeah.... parcel tape can f..k right off.
I'm actually making my first ever knife with removable scales as we speak... bit different. No pins... No corby or loveless bolts... never done one before... never been asked in all fairness. 16 years and no ones ever asked for removable scales, cant get my head around that one little thing... Seems kinda weird.
I'm actually making my first ever knife with removable scales as we speak... bit different. No pins... No corby or loveless bolts... never done one before... never been asked in all fairness. 16 years and no ones ever asked for removable scales, cant get my head around that one little thing... Seems kinda weird.
@Stuart Mitchell Knives Are you using only the cyanoacrylate for scales and bolts? Does it offer a strong enough bond? Could you explain the advantages and disadvantages of using it vs epoxy in this context please? I’ve only ever used it in woodworking where I want a temporary or low strength/fast setting adhesion.
Yup, the residue is a PITA, I persevered for years with the meths to remove it.
How are you 'fixing' the removable scales? I am on with one at present too.
I might use epoxy now and again, not very often at all, though. I find the CA much stronger, by a long way. I use two different viscosities, too, thin and medium. I find that thinner stronger than the medium, but there isn't much in it, but you have to be fast with the thin, as it goes off like mad.
The blue and red knife you see up there, like an idiot, when I bonded the scales to the liners (with the thin CA), I created two RH scales. I know that they would not come apart, no chance, no way. I suspect the G10 might delaminate first. With epoxy, I would have got them apart.
I have actually saved them, took a little thinking outside the box though
I'll get a photo later.
I did a couple of removable scale knives a few years ago. Used 3mm dowel pins for initial alignment. Drilled and reamed through holes in handle and blade. Needed to lap holes back to size after heat treatment as I didn’t have a carbide reamer the right size.
Handles held by two pairs of stainless screws from https://www.accu.co.uk/brand/1-accuscrews
Tried various head styles. M4 Torx countersunk flat was best but countersunk domed were interesting too. Screws fitted into brass threaded tubes that were a snug fit in reamed holes. Had to make the threaded tubes myself. Not an easy thing to find.
Lanyard hole had no tube liner.
Handles held by two pairs of stainless screws from https://www.accu.co.uk/brand/1-accuscrews
Tried various head styles. M4 Torx countersunk flat was best but countersunk domed were interesting too. Screws fitted into brass threaded tubes that were a snug fit in reamed holes. Had to make the threaded tubes myself. Not an easy thing to find.
Lanyard hole had no tube liner.
Done a little more on mine today, sounds like we have gone about the process in a very similar way.
This knife.
Now looks like this.
As mentioned earlier, like an idiot, I glued up (with CA) 2 x RH scales, which isn't going to work, is it?
I was short of blue G10, though, and I knew that that incorrectly fitted liner would not be coming off without causing damage, so this morning that knife looked like this.
Pile side.
Mark side.
Red, blue, red, tang, red, blue. I had to use that incorrectly lined blue scale, so a liner was also applied to the other side.
Obviously, I planned to grind the unwanted 'now outer' liner away as I shaped the handle.
Even at this stage, that red is now less than 1/2mm thick in places, I could not prise that red away from that blue. Nothing else is holding it other than CA. The shoulders of the bolts, of course, are deep inside the blue scale.
I'm just using some bolts i got from Amazon.Yup, the residue is a PITA, I persevered for years with the meths to remove it.
How are you 'fixing' the removable scales? I am on with one at present too.
I quite like that profile. Is it just the pic or are the holes in the blade larger than the ones in the scales? The lanyard hole in the blade seems to be the same as the scale holes? Maybe just how it comes across on my screen...
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CA bonds can come apart... but they need to be frozen. Overnight in the freezer and just flex them. They pop quite easily. Assuming a vice and either molegrips, or 3 bits of round bar positioned along the vice jaws ( 2 on the outer sides of one jaw, one, centrally on the other). I always use CA to secure the threads of frying pans for example (they all get loose eventually if attached by screws) CA withstands heat very well as i'm sure you know.The blue and red knife you see up there, like an idiot, when I bonded the scales to the liners (with the thin CA), I created two RH scales. I know that they would not come apart, no chance, no way. I suspect the G10 might delaminate first. With epoxy, I would have got them apart.
I have actually saved them, took a little thinking outside the box though
I'll get a photo later.
Well spotted.
The fixing holes are 8mm, the holes in the scales and lanyard are more like 6 and a bit mm.
I use this type of set-up.
Thanks for the info! I thought about using ca glue when glueing up the liners on one of mine but didn’t think it would provide enough strength. I’ll give it a try next time I think.
I use ca for liners. Good bond, FAR quicker than Epoxy. Not even close.
It’s the speed that will be handy I think. Will cut out a lot of time for sure.
Another grallocher going out today; this one features a beautiful piece of bookmatched Desert Ironwood.
Four set for off today...
P90 in Hunter Orange ~ 4" DPH in green canvas Micarta over yellow G10 ~ Hunter model in blue over red G10 and a P90 modified DP in blue/black Suretouch.
P90 in Hunter Orange ~ 4" DPH in green canvas Micarta over yellow G10 ~ Hunter model in blue over red G10 and a P90 modified DP in blue/black Suretouch.
I love the Hunter blade shape, bit of me that is. Reminds me of a butchers steak knife Dad gave me. (Dad was a butcher his entire working life, 14 to 70) Which he says he's had since the 60's or 70s (he couldn't remember exactly)
I just went and found it. Its still in the original sleeve. 'The Smithfield Professional Range' Made by S. Staniforth, Sheffield.
He dropped it once upon a time and dinged the edge. Not long after he got it. He saved it all these years (because he throws nothing away unless my Mum makes him lol) and gave it to me to re grind almost a decade ago.. Told him i loved the shape and he said i could keep it. I never did end up fixing the edge...
Untitled by Mark Hill, on Flickr
by Mark Hill, on Flickr
Original price tag still on it too, £4.45
by Mark Hill, on Flickr
I just went and found it. Its still in the original sleeve. 'The Smithfield Professional Range' Made by S. Staniforth, Sheffield.
He dropped it once upon a time and dinged the edge. Not long after he got it. He saved it all these years (because he throws nothing away unless my Mum makes him lol) and gave it to me to re grind almost a decade ago.. Told him i loved the shape and he said i could keep it. I never did end up fixing the edge...
Untitled by Mark Hill, on Flickr by Mark Hill, on FlickrOriginal price tag still on it too, £4.45
by Mark Hill, on FlickrSimilar threads
