MoD survival Knife, how do i sharpen it?
- Thread starter RAPPLEBY2000
- Start date
Rappleby,
Andy has compiled some very useful tips and instructions on sharpening here: http://www.bushcraftuk.com/community/showthread.php?t=12348
YOu're going to need some good sharpening stones, each type has it's merits which you can learn abit more about in the above article but personal preference is for some Japanese waterstones 1200/6000 grit which is available from www.axminster.co.uk
I also use a starkie sharp strop and paste for stropping my blade and giving it that razor finish. This is also available from axminster.co.uk
Andy has compiled some very useful tips and instructions on sharpening here: http://www.bushcraftuk.com/community/showthread.php?t=12348
YOu're going to need some good sharpening stones, each type has it's merits which you can learn abit more about in the above article but personal preference is for some Japanese waterstones 1200/6000 grit which is available from www.axminster.co.uk
I also use a starkie sharp strop and paste for stropping my blade and giving it that razor finish. This is also available from axminster.co.uk
I have some of these blades that I got from Andy - although they came pretty well finished they all needed a bit of work to get them the way I wanted them.
They are effectively scandi ground with a small secondary bevel - I assume yours is the same. However they are very big to work against a stone and I found that I wasn't getting an even bevel the length of the blade.
What I found best was to mount them vertically in a vice with the cutting edge facing away from me. I then finished them by holding the stone like a file and pull the stone over the bevel towards you working towards the back of the blade (I wore tough work gloves though cos it's very easy to cut yourself this way).
Work through the gradesuntil you're happy with the finish and the edge and then strop the edge to take off any burr.
Always amazes people when you can shave with a beast the size of a MOD blade but all of mine are sharp enough to shave the length of the blade.
If I was finishing it for chopping I would probably put a sizeable micro bevel just to keep the edge strong.
Hope this helps
George
They are effectively scandi ground with a small secondary bevel - I assume yours is the same. However they are very big to work against a stone and I found that I wasn't getting an even bevel the length of the blade.
What I found best was to mount them vertically in a vice with the cutting edge facing away from me. I then finished them by holding the stone like a file and pull the stone over the bevel towards you working towards the back of the blade (I wore tough work gloves though cos it's very easy to cut yourself this way).
Work through the gradesuntil you're happy with the finish and the edge and then strop the edge to take off any burr.
Always amazes people when you can shave with a beast the size of a MOD blade but all of mine are sharp enough to shave the length of the blade.
If I was finishing it for chopping I would probably put a sizeable micro bevel just to keep the edge strong.
Hope this helps
George
There was a pretty good thread a while ago about sharpening using a file
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/community/showthread.php?t=10181
I own that I haven't tried it on harder steels, despite having a little mill cut file from Martindale that works a treat on machetes. I would imagine that it would work very well to re-work the edge of the MOD knife.
As with most sharpening jobs, once the edge is where you want it, it should be easier to maintain with any pocket hone or small stone.
Ther is also a good article on doing convexes one
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=94
and another
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=91
Actually, thanks for asking, I wouldn't have found that second OM article otherwise, I think that will be worth reading and saving
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/community/showthread.php?t=10181
I own that I haven't tried it on harder steels, despite having a little mill cut file from Martindale that works a treat on machetes. I would imagine that it would work very well to re-work the edge of the MOD knife.
As with most sharpening jobs, once the edge is where you want it, it should be easier to maintain with any pocket hone or small stone.
Ther is also a good article on doing convexes one
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=94
and another
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=91
Actually, thanks for asking, I wouldn't have found that second OM article otherwise, I think that will be worth reading and saving
RAPPLEBY2000 said:
I bought myself one of these sharpeners and have found it very useful for sharpening both small and large blades, don't know how good it would be on a BASK but still useful piece of kit...
5 x 215mm. Convenient, pocket-sized tool with diamond sharpening blade for long life. 139mm long when closed.
Link to shop...http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/searchresults.jsp?_dyncharset=UTF-8&howMany=5&searchText=sharpening+pen&x=10&y=7
LS
I don't put a second bevel on the blade, I think it is a chunky user and doesn't really need it, but that is my personal opinion. Due to the nature of these knifes there is probably quite a variation in the hardness of the blades as they are manufactured, so they may need individual sharpening methods. Try just laying it flat on the stone and if it tends to go blunt easily during use, consider a secondary bevel.
They are good knives, I still like to use mine now and then!
They are good knives, I still like to use mine now and then!
I've seen a lot of the blades for these things (about 40 last monday infact)
The main bevel is slightly hollow ground on a large wheel (maybe 18inches across) so if you lay the whole bevel on the stone don't worry that you wont remove metal from the middle of the bevel. The blades which I sell are sharpened slightly differently to the standard MOD knives as I get Jack to put a secondary bevel on them as they tend to be blunt after all the coating and stuff.
I would putting a small secondary bevel on unless you have a lot of time to sharpen it. If you don't have some really course stones you might be best with some low grit wet&dry paper, if the knife doesn't have a edge on at all then you'll need a file to start with.
The main bevel is slightly hollow ground on a large wheel (maybe 18inches across) so if you lay the whole bevel on the stone don't worry that you wont remove metal from the middle of the bevel. The blades which I sell are sharpened slightly differently to the standard MOD knives as I get Jack to put a secondary bevel on them as they tend to be blunt after all the coating and stuff.
I would putting a small secondary bevel on unless you have a lot of time to sharpen it. If you don't have some really course stones you might be best with some low grit wet&dry paper, if the knife doesn't have a edge on at all then you'll need a file to start with.
Rappelby,
Is the knife edge damaged, very blunt or just in need or a general sharpening? The techniques involved in correcting these problems are different . If the edge is severely damages, you may need a file or grinding wheel to remove enough steel to "grind out" the damage. If in need of a general sharpen, can I point you to:
£5 Sharpening ki
There are some diagrams to explain sharpening techniques there. It doesn't cover everything but most of what is suggested works as well for waterstones as it does for the kit described.
Feel free to stick a photo up if there is damage to the blade and I'm sure the experts (Chris, Andy, Hoodoo etc.) will offer advice on re-dressing
Hope that helps - say if you have any questions
Red
Is the knife edge damaged, very blunt or just in need or a general sharpening? The techniques involved in correcting these problems are different . If the edge is severely damages, you may need a file or grinding wheel to remove enough steel to "grind out" the damage. If in need of a general sharpen, can I point you to:
£5 Sharpening ki
There are some diagrams to explain sharpening techniques there. It doesn't cover everything but most of what is suggested works as well for waterstones as it does for the kit described.
Feel free to stick a photo up if there is damage to the blade and I'm sure the experts (Chris, Andy, Hoodoo etc.) will offer advice on re-dressing
Hope that helps - say if you have any questions
Red
Mine, which I believe is the original version, has a convex final bevel that starts about a cm above the edge. I take it that convexing the edge was regadred as an unnecessary expense as the knife "evolved." (Perhaps "devolved"?)
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