they look quite beautiful.
What's the advantage of them over other build types? Just being able to utilise all sizes of wood?
Log cabin Man cave project
- Thread starter Pignut
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
they look quite beautiful.
What's the advantage of them over other build types? Just being able to utilise all sizes of wood?
Biker
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Hey Pignut, glad you're cool about having input on this project. Like I said I didn't want to trample over your dream or hijack this thread.
However .... (you just knew this was coming didn't you
) I would suggest venting the chimney out the wall and then upwards above the roof line, rather than through the roof. Keeping a watertight seal on the hot pipe could be difficult, and if you went with roofing felt for the covering as well as the woodstore roof you could risk melting the felt. It's tar/bitumen based after all (burny burny 
). I'm installing my own woodburner in my small house over the next couple of weeks and gave a lot of thought for where to run the chimney and I have decided with the corrugated concrete/asbestos paneled roof it's too much to expect a perfect seal. So I'm drilling through the 40mm prefab concrete wall and will fit a couple of bends into the flue then go upwards. Obviously I'd like to keep as much hot chimney pipe in the room with me before it goes outside so it will vent outside about head height I suppose.
Seeing your thread here is inspiring me to post something of my own build project. Yeah might just do that. Thanks for the kick up the butt.
All the very best mate!
:You_Rock_
Not really sure what advantages there are to traditional types of log cabin, other than like you said you can use all the wood you harvest. I'm guessing too that a log cabin in a damp climate would eventually rot, whereas the cordwood method using so much cement could potentially have those walls lasting decades if sealed and done well. They do look good, but there's something synthetic about them that I'm not sure I like. Perhaps it's seeing cement and wood side by side that jars me. I like 'em nonetheless.
However .... (you just knew this was coming didn't you
) I would suggest venting the chimney out the wall and then upwards above the roof line, rather than through the roof. Keeping a watertight seal on the hot pipe could be difficult, and if you went with roofing felt for the covering as well as the woodstore roof you could risk melting the felt. It's tar/bitumen based after all (burny burny ). I'm installing my own woodburner in my small house over the next couple of weeks and gave a lot of thought for where to run the chimney and I have decided with the corrugated concrete/asbestos paneled roof it's too much to expect a perfect seal. So I'm drilling through the 40mm prefab concrete wall and will fit a couple of bends into the flue then go upwards. Obviously I'd like to keep as much hot chimney pipe in the room with me before it goes outside so it will vent outside about head height I suppose.Seeing your thread here is inspiring me to post something of my own build project. Yeah might just do that. Thanks for the kick up the butt.
All the very best mate!
:You_Rock_
Not really sure what advantages there are to traditional types of log cabin, other than like you said you can use all the wood you harvest. I'm guessing too that a log cabin in a damp climate would eventually rot, whereas the cordwood method using so much cement could potentially have those walls lasting decades if sealed and done well. They do look good, but there's something synthetic about them that I'm not sure I like. Perhaps it's seeing cement and wood side by side that jars me. I like 'em nonetheless.
Agreed mate.
I am going to go through the wall at the back. I am probably going to build the rear wall from stone. So this seems the safest option.
I would like to shingle the roof but not sure the pitch is adequate.
Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk 2
I am going to go through the wall at the back. I am probably going to build the rear wall from stone. So this seems the safest option.
I would like to shingle the roof but not sure the pitch is adequate.
Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk 2
Last edited:
Have you looked at "earthbag" construction compared to stone? Just another option and the only real cost is a few sacks!
Update to post 1.
Think some new drawings are in order
Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk
Think some new drawings are in order
Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Shingles is a great idea - I have a basic froe - there doesn't look to be much in the making of them if you can forge and grind 
Shingles is a great idea - I have a basic froe - there doesn't look to be much in the making of them if you can forge and grind
Any chance of a pic Red?
Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk
Its in the toolshed - I'll try and take a picture over the weekend - its just a blade with an eye at the end really
If thinking of shingles then please dont do the numbers before you start. Especially dont consider the 1/3rd overlap.
Shingles is a great idea - I have a basic froe - there doesn't look to be much in the making of them if you can forge and grind
Yeah. Here's one forged from a rasp
[video=youtube;pLztEIlpH4w]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLztEIlpH4w[/video]
I'm really curious about this, looking forward to updates
Great project, best of luck
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
Great project, best of luck
Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk
Hi mate - haven't photographed the froe yet (daughter home today ) - just a thought on log peeling, I would try to get a proper spud if you can - really speeds up the process over a draw knife
) - just a thought on log peeling, I would try to get a proper spud if you can - really speeds up the process over a draw knife
Similar threads
