Linen vs Synthetic thread for leather

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Chris

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Sep 20, 2022
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I understand that there are some tensile differences between linen and synthetic thread, as well as the latter being generally longer lasting. That said, I do like to use natural materials where that's viable to do so.

I'm going to be using some 1mm waxed thread for sewing my sheath together. It seems 1mm linen thread is quite hard to get hold of - does this mean that I should be using synthetic thread for the sheath? Or am I looking in the wrong places?

Thanks in advance.
 
Is 1mm important?
thread often isn't measured by diameter except as an additional spec.
It's normally something like 18/3.
From memory i think 18/3 is maybe a little less than 1mm but i may be wrong.

Apart from personal preference i think natural is generally better to match the natural leather material - except if the thread is likely to get more abuse and likely to rot quicker than normal.
then synthetic would be better.
 
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Is 1mm important?
thread often isn't measured by diameter except as an additional spec.
It's normally something like 18/3.
From memory i think 18/3 is maybe a little less than 1mm but i may be wrong.

Apart from personal preference i think natural is generally better to match the natural leather material - except if the thread is likely to get more abuse and likely to rot quicker than normal.
then synthetic would be better.

This might be a consequence of some of the info I'm getting being from the US, as lots of talks of 'mm' for thread.

Le Provo site suggests 18/6 is near enough 1mm (0.9mm) but £27 seems quite expensive for it. https://www.leprevo.co.uk/threads.htm#linen

Then again that might be reasonable pricing and I just need to adjust my expectations for linen thread...
 
There is plenty of 100 year plus harness that’s holding together beautifully.
How much maintenance will you be doing? Presumably a wax polish before its maiden trip?

How much and how often will you and your knife get wet?

I wouldn’t hesitate to use normally available linen, the stuff that I buy on a card. Then I’ve only ever made a couple of pouches. Oh and the big leather grommet at the top of my tipi. Now, that has got soaked for a week or more at a time and I haven’t looked at it for years.

(I’m loaded for a camp right now - guess it might e wise to check but I’m not going to - she’ll be right)
 
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If the linen thread you have is too fine, it's easy to ply it up. Strengthens it too :)

Look at the twist on the thread. Linen is generally spun with a Z twist...that is anti-clockwise.
Pay heed, to that twist, check your thread.

Cut a length (you can do two reels, but you need to know what you're doing to keep it even, this short way works well, and makes good sewing thread lengths) that is about three times the length you would normally sew with.
Couple of metres maybe ?
Tie a loop in both ends. Make the loops big enough to hook over a door handle.
Hook one onto the door handle and put a pencil through the other.
Pull back until your thread is taut.
Then twist the pencil end to get as much extra twist into the thread as you can before it rumples up.

Slip the pencil free, and without letting the thread twist, yet, so still keeping it taut, slip that loop onto the door handle too. Your other hand ought to be holding the thread taut, find the middle and slip the pencil into it there, and gently let it go.
Take the loops off the door handle and the pencil will spin until you have a S plyed thread of two Z's.
Wax the thread and you're good to go.

Spinning is just controlling the twist. Turning fibres into thread is just controlling the twist.
 
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This is the thread I have been using for many of my project recently:


Loads of other options here:

 
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Linen thread heavily waxed, tightly sewn into a sunken stitch line using saddle stitch. Then more wax rubbed into the finished stitch line, finally gently hammered flat with a polished hammer. But better to do this after wet forming and before any dyeing or finish work.
 
I've always used Linen with beeswax. Never tried synthetic. Linen is natural, leather is natural, beeswax is natural... that's my only reason lol.
 
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This might be a consequence of some of the info I'm getting being from the US, as lots of talks of 'mm' for thread.

Le Provo site suggests 18/6 is near enough 1mm (0.9mm) but £27 seems quite expensive for it. https://www.leprevo.co.uk/threads.htm#linen

Then again that might be reasonable pricing and I just need to adjust my expectations for linen thread...
Thats for 400 metres. That price is pretty good. Unless you are a pro leather worker, it will last your entire life. That would easily make (Edit to make correct) 400+ full sized bushcraft knife type sheaths.
 
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And, i got it wrong... Because reasons... Its one sheath per metre at that size, so 400 sheaths. Sometimes, i'm an idiot, sometimes, my cat (one of them, the one who decides it likes to walk on my keyboard) makes me the idiot, othertimes... well, its just me :encourage::D
 
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I've worked with rope and twines for more years that I can remember but never ever thought to try rolling-in fine twine, to make a thicker twine....As Harry Worth used to say _"I don't know why, but there it is".

Thanks to Toddy's post, I gave it a try...and then jacked it in after ten mins, with not much to show.
Then got out a cup hook and the electric drill and in a few moments...taaadaaaah, found myself with 5 feet of very usable cord.......once waxed, it looked factory made.

I'm re-rigging a once fairly well-known model of a Napoleonic, ship-rigged , Sloop of War and I believe I have the answer to a huge problem of sourcing a natural-looking and scale sized cord of many different diameters.

Regards All
Ceeg
 

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