Knife making questions

[Bushcraft4life]

Do you like the one you received?

If so, keep it.

And yes, i would sand in the same direction, from the handle to tip and then repeat, don't go back and forth.

 

[Spark]

Yeah I'm happy with the one I've got. Its only the appearance that made me choose a different blade but the one I have got has a scandi grind instead of a flat grind. But I'm not bothered about that.

And yes, i would sand in the same direction, from the handle to tip and then repeat, don't go back and forth.

Thats what I have been doing but i just wanted to make sure.

Thanks

 

[Jedadiah]

With the Micromesh it is recommended that you alternate directions. For example, use the 1800 in one direction until the surface is uniform, then, at a right angle to the original drection, use the next grit (2400), when that is uniform, 90 degrees again, the original direction and the next grit (3200) until that is uniform and keep going up the grits until your happy.

 

[Jus_like_that]

I prefer a polished face switch! And without a doubt it reduces resistance when cutting/batonning. I was always taught that a polished edge is sharper and lasts longer. the same applies with the face of a blade. Cleans up easier too!

cheers
Adam

 

[Shinken]

Martyn, ive heard about mirror polish cutting better before. Mostly on axes, try slicing through a carrot with a mirror blade and a forge finished one. Maybe there will be a difference, not sure it would be noticeable on a 600 grit finish compared to a mirror though.

 

[Shinken]

Oh and as for finishing the blade, DEFINITELY finish it before addding the scales. Otherwise you will have a headache.

Screw the tang to a solid flat surface and use a rubber backed push-stick with wet and dry on it and go through the grits again. Alternate the direction early on in the grits and you will be able to see when the scratches from the previous grit are gone.

TIP: make sure the sanding strokes go in one direction and are in one continuous motion ie dont stop half way down the blade and then start there again to do the other half

 

[shep]

If you a: like mirror finishes and
b: get bored of sanding

you can use a buffing wheel set with some compound like this.

This will get you from 320g to mirror in about 5mins. You just attach it to a pillar drill, or any drill in a vice and you're away. It also works out cheaper as it lasts way longer than fine grit w+d paper. It also works well up against the scales if you are polishing after fitting them.

As far as direction goes, I find it easier to switch directions with each change of grit as you can tell when you have definitely removed all of the scratch marks from the previous grit. I aim for the last one to be across the blade since that is the direction the blade will mostly be cutting in.

 

[Zammo]

Those sets look quite interesting. I wonder how good the alloy wheel set is as my misses has managed to scratch hers up quite badly?

 

[Spark]

As far as direction goes, I find it easier to switch directions with each change of grit as you can tell when you have definitely removed all of the scratch marks from the previous grit. I aim for the last one to be across the blade since that is the direction the blade will mostly be cutting in.

By across the blade I presume you mean blade to the spine (just to clarify).

There does seem to be a bit of a split on weather to keep sanding in one direction or alternate. I did start off by sanding in one direction but now that someone has explained why they alternate, I can see the logic behind that.

Should I finish sanding the tang before I fit the handle? Although my only worry is that I will scratch it again when I am sanding the scales.

 

[shep]

I do all of the tang finishing after fitting it. It's much easier to get your scales and tang completely flush this way.

 

[Spark]

I know its a bit of a bump but rather than starting a new thread I thought I would post here. It may seem daft but I can't decide on which colour spacers to get. I am using 'Kingwood' as pictured below. The top one has white spirit on, which is similar to how it will look when finished (hopefully).
So any recommendations on spacer colour?

 

[Bushcraft4life]

Black or red is pretty much the norm.

I would go for black, seeing as the scales already have a deep red colour.

 

[shep]

Black is a safe bet with this wood. For a more dramatic finish you could try turqouise scales which will contrast with the red wood nicely.

There's an example of this with walnut on one side and rosewood on the other here.

Funnily enough, I just happen to have some. If you're interested, drop me a PM.

 

[Spark]

Well I have decided on the black liners and have ordered them.
Thanks for the offer shep but I will stick with the kingwood. Conversely the lower piece of kingwood in the picture is spare, and I also have some paduak as well from my last knife.

 

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