Is that so you don't have to drill them out? The first bead I made without lubrication was a pain but these I made yesterday were a lot better as I used washing up liquid.No drill bits jamming.
Just made a copper paracord bead.....
- Thread starter WULF
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Is that so you don't have to drill them out? The first bead I made without lubrication was a pain but these I made yesterday were a lot better as I used washing up liquid.No drill bits jamming.
WULF. Yes. I'm also thinking burny burny fingers but I might aneal then do it cold. I read about drilling copper and the bit biting and lubrication so something rolled was my first thought.
That, and also I don't have solid copper and I have a few bits of pipe lying around. Thinking of a bit copper and a bit brass sheet, bashed together.........
That, and also I don't have solid copper and I have a few bits of pipe lying around. Thinking of a bit copper and a bit brass sheet, bashed together.........
The brass and copper sounds great!
I got my copper bar relatively cheap and drill with fairy to lubricate is much easier.Whatever you go for i'd love to see.
Ive just recieved some bronze rod.ive got some big ideas for this so ill keep this thread updated!
These copper beads will be for sale on ebay at the weekend,im currently making some bronze beads.
Really enjoying working with the copper and bronze and future items will include lanterns,pendants and any other items I can make.
Really enjoying working with the copper and bronze and future items will include lanterns,pendants and any other items I can make.
Ive just made a few more copper items,another bead and some keyring hangers.All hammered and distressed,just waiting for some jump rings to arrive so I can finish these.Comments welcome.
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Hi, I've done a bit of copper smithing in the past, mostly model steam engine boiler from 1/8" copper plate.
Best bet is to anneal the copper by heating to cherry red and leaving it to cool. Copper work hardens as you form it so you may have to keep re annealing it as you go.
As for drilling it an old engineer friend told me to use Milk as a coolant/lubricant (full fat stuff) works well. You may also find dulling the drill slightly to stop it grabbing helps.
Keep up the good work.
Rich
Keep up the
Best bet is to anneal the copper by heating to cherry red and leaving it to cool. Copper work hardens as you form it so you may have to keep re annealing it as you go.
As for drilling it an old engineer friend told me to use Milk as a coolant/lubricant (full fat stuff) works well. You may also find dulling the drill slightly to stop it grabbing helps.
Keep up the good work.
Rich
Keep up the
Thanks for the great tips
Ive used the cherry red method on one of my hammered beads as a finish.i now use liver of sulphur to age them which works well.
just made this one,something abit different.I found two spent magnum cases while out walking in the lakes a while back so thought id try one on a tag.
Great stuff my friend - this indeed looks cool! The pattern on the copper was hammered right?
All the best,
Bogdan
All the best,
Bogdan
just made this one,something abit different.I found two spent magnum cases while out walking in the lakes a while back so thought id try one on a tag.
thanks mate.
yes all handmade and started life as a piece of flat copper bar then hammered with a ball pein hammer.all handmade excluding the drilling of the hole!
finished off by adding a bullet shell and soldering it in place from the back.
this is also for sale on IG as ive just purchased a lathe to make turned beads!
They are very nice, but phosphor bronze? are you a millionaire?………..seriously tho, they are great!
Prefer the aged copper, just MHO…I'm assuming you now have a lathe? I have a VERY tired Atlas Craftsman which is older than me, that is surprisingly useful for things that don't need great accuracy…...
Paul
Prefer the aged copper, just MHO…I'm assuming you now have a lathe? I have a VERY tired Atlas Craftsman which is older than me, that is surprisingly useful for things that don't need great accuracy…...
Paul
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