I cant sharpen my SAK !

[Perrari]

Just found this on ebay, it's an accusharp copy. For the price it is probably worth a try. But would probably take a few weeks to arrive.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Knife-Axe...pt=UK_Kitchen_Accessories&hash=item43ae8b823e

 

[Robbi]

Spyderco sharpmaker !!

 

[ex member pyrophil]

I use one of these on all my knifes, find it works good.

 

[Robbi]

i have an original one of those, works quite well on fixed blades, not sure how it would work on a smaller bladed folder

 

[ex member pyrophil]

I got that one in the late 80s, still works great.

 

[dwardo]

Don't bother using water stones, diamond stone or rod is best for the tiny bevels on a Sak, just give it few swipes over (the edge on a Sak is very fine and you are probably taking to much steel at the wrong angle off with your water stones) then a strop and you should be good to go. I find a fine ceramic or diamond rod best for thin edged knives like a Sak. Hope that helps.

Waterstones are not much good for the tougher stainless metals in my experience, too soft.
Much better off with a diamond stone and it will take 2 seconds.

 

[Dave]

£3.99 from amazon.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kitchen-Dev...1_11?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1282863062&sr=1-11

 

[Silverback 1]

Post deleted

 

[Amon81]

I personally found the best was to put a very sharp edge on my SAK'S is ONLY use a ceramic rod. I can make pretty much anything shaving sharp with my Japanese stones, but I just can't get SAK's sharp for some reason.

I do own the Victornaox pocktet stone. I found it to be rubbish, GB's puck is much better.

I'd LOVE a SAK with better steel! Something like Sandvik 12 C27, I have a few folder with it and they are fantastic, really thin and hold a great edge, way way better than any make SAK I've used.

 

[HillBill]

Me too, one of the early ones before they were granted the patent.

They work really well on small blades, just use the edge of them same as you do with serrations I sharpen my stanley knives on them for my leatherwork. Gets them sharper than new.

i have an original one of those, works quite well on fixed blades, not sure how it would work on a smaller bladed folder

 

[Robbi]

now there's a tip

 

[tomongoose]

I just use the kitchen steel and that seems to work fine

 

[Wook]

I apply a convex edge to most of my knives, including my old SAK. Truthfully I find other grinds difficult. I find I can get a good edge freehand using a Fallkniven DC4 directly onto the blade with a circular, rocking motion. When convexing an edge inconsistencies and randomness in your hand movements actually help to achieve a perfect curve. The sample principle was used by Isaac Newton when he ground his own mirror for the worlds first reflector telescope. Amateur astronomers often still grind their own mirrors. In industrial mirror grinding, achieving the randomness naturally found with hand ground mirrors is one of the harder things to build into the grinding machines.

Having to maintain a perfect constant angle with a flat grind is something I have always struggled with. Convex edges are harder wearing anyway.

 

[Pict]

I use a mouse pad and sandpaper for my SAK's and it works very well. I'm just getting ready to give all my convex knives a touch-up as a reward for getting the shop cleared out.

 

[Dave]

I saw your post on British Blades as well Paully.

http://www.britishblades.com/forums...0-Recommend-me-a-good-sharpening-system/page2

Does anyone know where you can get the 2000 3000 grit 3M Polishing tapes that NickNoHair recommends on page 2?

 

[bushwacker bob]

I saw your post on British Blades as well Paully.

http://www.britishblades.com/forums...0-Recommend-me-a-good-sharpening-system/page2

Does anyone know where you can get the 2000 3000 grit 3M Polishing tapes that NickNoHair recommends on page 2?

Johnt1102 on British blades

 

[Ratbag]

Had the same problem myself with SAK's they can be a bitch to sharpen because in most cases that i have found, the grinds are pretty cr@p and uneven, the best solution if you can manage it is to remove the tiny secondary bevel and convex the edge carefully using the mouse pad and wet & dry sandpaper method going through the various grades and polishing the blade last thing with Autosol, leaves a great edge that is a doddle to maintain with a strop and compound, hope this helps.

What he said. Just convex the secondary bevel out using the mousemat method. Easy peasy.

Rat

 

[Dave]

Johnt1102 on British blades

Cheers Bob. Is it possible to contact him if you are not on BB?