Hobo Stove Gallery (Probably picture heavy)

Crafty

Forager
Apr 7, 2009
203
1
...Location.... Location....
I made a 5-minute hobo stove which I made in bordem but it turned out pretty good and outputs quite alot of heat, this picture shows the bean can with the lower intake holes which air is drawn in and you can see the sections cut out of the top with a larger tab cut-out to place twigs in:
DSCN0186.jpg


Here you can see the lower intake holes in more detail:
DSCN0187.jpg


Here you can see the inside, with the fire-grate made from the lid, kept in place with bent bits of metal cut out from the tin:
DSCN0188.jpg


Here is the stove in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUZbZ7Y5gRk
 

Peter_t

Native
Oct 13, 2007
1,353
3
East Sussex
I made a 5-minute hobo stove which I made in bordem but it turned out pretty good and outputs quite alot of heat, this picture shows the bean can with the lower intake holes which air is drawn in and you can see the sections cut out of the top with a larger tab cut-out to place twigs in:
DSCN0186.jpg

a true hobo stove! made from rubish not like those fancy stainless steel stoves, i meen where would a tramp get the materials or the tools to make one?:rolleyes:

iv got a fatter pineapple tin lined up for mine:D

pete
 

jimford

Settler
Mar 19, 2009
548
0
85
Hertfordshire
This is from an idea I saw on the net. It work very well - which is not to say that it can't benefit from 'tuning' or improvements. The stove burns cleanly and smoke free on one filling of twigs for about 1/2 hour.

I used a cheap dog food tin from Tescos and removed the lid with a clean-cut type opener.

It's important to remember that contrary to most wood fires, this burns from the top downwards - you don't light it from the bottom. This ensures that as combustable gasses are released from the heated fuel, they have to pass upwards into the hottest zone and are consumed. If lit from below, the flame heats the fuel above, but not necessarily hot enough to ignite. The gasses produced will then escape as smoke. The only problem with burning from the top is the initial lighting. This is most easily achieved with a teaspoonfull of meths dribbled on top of the fuel stack - but I have done it with strips of birch bark laid on top, but it's not so easy as using meths. The base of the can heats up, but only enough to lightly scorch any underlying grass.

The following images shows the two components of the stove. I created the large holes at the top and bottom with a 1 1/8" hole (chassis) punch I had handy. Other methods of creating the holes would depend on the tools available. I joined pairs of holes at the top to created ovals, but it probably wasn't necessary. Immediately above the lower large holes is a ring of 4mm ones. These were drilled and afterwards the drill shank was inserted into the holes and levered downwards to created a lip on the inside of the can for supporting the hearth. Above this is a ring of about 7mm holes and nearer the top, two more rings of 4mm holes. These holes were also treated in the same way as the 4mm holes art the bottom, in an attempt to divert air into the stove when burning. The removed lid of the can becomes the 'hearth' of the stove, and is 'peppered' with 3mm holes, as shown. The very bottom of the can is left intact.
My decision for placement and sizing of the holes was pretty arbitary, and I'm sure other arrangements would work equally well

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.ford60/stove0.jpg

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.ford60/stove2.jpg

The next images show the assembled stove, with the hearth in place and sitting on the lips of the lower 4mm holes.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.ford60/stove1.jpg

This shows the stove filled and ready to light. Use pencil diameter dry twigs broken into short lengths. As the stove is filled, tap the base onto the ground to settle the fuel.
(Appologies for the 'soft' image - It's camera shake because I'd forgotten to switch the camera image stabilisation on!)

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.ford60/stove3.jpg

Here the stove is shown lit. It can be seen that no smoke is being produced.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.ford60/stove4.jpg

The next image shows the kettle on the stove, followed by it boiling after about ten minutes. Again, in both images no smoke is being produced.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.ford60/stove5.jpg

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.ford60/stove6.jpg

The final two images show the stove burning out and the ashes to show how complete the combustion was.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.ford60/stove7.jpg

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.ford60/stove8.jpg

Jim

(So how do I embed inline images?)
 

Crafty

Forager
Apr 7, 2009
203
1
...Location.... Location....
Add the pictures to photobucket and they will give you a link that begins with - Use that.
As reference to your stove - I think it's excellent and a obvious piece of good, ingenius workmanship, Obviously it's the same principal as mine but constructed in a slightly different way.
 
This is from an idea I saw on the net. It work very well - which is not to say that it can't benefit from 'tuning' or improvements. The stove burns cleanly and smoke free on one filling of twigs for about 1/2 hour.

I used a cheap dog food tin from Tescos and removed the lid with a clean-cut type opener.

It's important to remember that contrary to most wood fires, this burns from the top downwards - you don't light it from the bottom. This ensures that as combustable gasses are released from the heated fuel, they have to pass upwards into the hottest zone and are consumed. If lit from below, the flame heats the fuel above, but not necessarily hot enough to ignite. The gasses produced will then escape as smoke. The only problem with burning from the top is the initial lighting. This is most easily achieved with a teaspoonfull of meths dribbled on top of the fuel stack - but I have done it with strips of birch bark laid on top, but it's not so easy as using meths. The base of the can heats up, but only enough to lightly scorch any underlying grass.

The following images shows the two components of the stove. I created the large holes at the top and bottom with a 1 1/8" hole (chassis) punch I had handy. Other methods of creating the holes would depend on the tools available. I joined pairs of holes at the top to created ovals, but it probably wasn't necessary. Immediately above the lower large holes is a ring of 4mm ones. These were drilled and afterwards the drill shank was inserted into the holes and levered downwards to created a lip on the inside of the can for supporting the hearth. Above this is a ring of about 7mm holes and nearer the top, two more rings of 4mm holes. These holes were also treated in the same way as the 4mm holes art the bottom, in an attempt to divert air into the stove when burning. The removed lid of the can becomes the 'hearth' of the stove, and is 'peppered' with 3mm holes, as shown. The very bottom of the can is left intact.
My decision for placement and sizing of the holes was pretty arbitary, and I'm sure other arrangements would work equally well

stove0.jpg


stove2.jpg


The next images show the assembled stove, with the hearth in place and sitting on the lips of the lower 4mm holes.

stove1.jpg


This shows the stove filled and ready to light. Use pencil diameter dry twigs broken into short lengths. As the stove is filled, tap the base onto the ground to settle the fuel.
(Appologies for the 'soft' image - It's camera shake because I'd forgotten to switch the camera image stabilisation on!)

stove3.jpg


Here the stove is shown lit. It can be seen that no smoke is being produced.

stove4.jpg


The next image shows the kettle on the stove, followed by it boiling after about ten minutes. Again, in both images no smoke is being produced.

stove5.jpg


stove6.jpg


The final two images show the stove burning out and the ashes to show how complete the combustion was.

stove7.jpg


stove8.jpg


Jim

(So how do I embed inline images?)

Thought I'd help out... Nice post!
Cheers,
Mungo
 

Crafty

Forager
Apr 7, 2009
203
1
...Location.... Location....
Not strictly speaking, a hobo stove - but it is made from old rubbish too. This is a revised edition of the coke/beer can alcohol stove - what is unique about this is the "finely tuned", intergrated coat hanger pot stand and I have solved the sometimes messy and inconvenient trouble of having to pour the alcohol/meths on the ground around the stove or getting a seperate bit of metal to have the stove on to pour the alcohol on instead - I have done this by simply screwing the stove onto a larger tin and waterproofed it with some paint and "No More Nails" so there are no leaks which you just pour a bit of meths or whatever in and wait for the main stove to ignite. I also made a valve from the top of the beer can so more of the vapour comes out the out-take holes rather that uncontrollably out the top where it's not supposed to and wasting the fuel with a not very hot flame!

I personally don't really take meths stoves out anywhere apart from my backgarden when I have decided to make one as I feel is leaves too much impact on the environment and I don't really trust meths.

Top View:
DSCN0190.jpg


Bottom View Showing Paint:
DSCN0191.jpg


Side View Showing Air Intake Holes And Close-Up Of Pot Stand:
DSCN0192.jpg


Obviously not the most elegant thing in the world but it works!
 

Peter_t

Native
Oct 13, 2007
1,353
3
East Sussex
iv always felt that hobo stoves were a bit pointless but seeing how popular they have become i thought i better give it a go. it turned out very well, i used laylandii bark as tinder and larch as fuel, stating off with shavings then finger thick split wood.
unlike most other soft woods larch is very clean burning once it gets going and makes very little smoke and produces good coals to cook on:)

the tin i used was too small to suport a pan aswell as holding enough fuel so i had to hold it lol. i will bring a pot hanger next time:rolleyes:

P100409_1608.jpg


P100409_1609.jpg


P100409_1623.jpg




pete
 

Iona

Nomad
Mar 11, 2009
387
0
Ashdown Forest
Well that's my sunday project sorted! Thanks for the ideas, I'm clearly gonna bastardise them all... :D bring on some sunshine to do it in :)
 

Boston973

Member
Feb 3, 2009
46
0
45
Mass
Well Its taken me awile but I have finally gotten around to making my own. I wanted to thank all of you for the great idea's and models. My own is Nowere as nice but it did cost less than 30 bucks to make the whole thing.

IMG_0593.jpg


IMG_0595.jpg


IMG_0596.jpg


IMG_0598.jpg


IMG_0601.jpg


IMG_0602.jpg


IMG_0604.jpg


IMG_0608.jpg


IMG_0609.jpg
 

Boston973

Member
Feb 3, 2009
46
0
45
Mass
Exellent so far. I had a nice fire going in there for a few hours and i did not get any additional chipping. However I will say that i would prefer a stainless billy. I dropped this one and it hit a rock and penny size chip of enamel flaked off the side. Both cans can hold 2.5 qourts but have a slightly diffrent profile wich means they fit inside eachother perfectly. the two handles are meant to be removable and I keep them both It helps when I need to move the stove and its still hot.

Of course for around 8 dollars each the two billys can be replaced if problems do occur.

The other small set of pan, dish, pot and cup. I also got at walmart. it cost me around five dollars.

The real test comes at the end of the month, when I am off to the White Mountains for a week. Hopefully I will have many pictures to post on my return. I have alot of plans but so far my main goal is to make fire by friction.
 
Just wanted to move this one closer to the front again. After that last over nighter I trully realized the value of having one of these and dry fuel in my pack and it is now a front burner project and I will be doing some study. Every time I started to set a fire to cook first my breakfast then my lunch...(went home for dinner) the thunder would come and the sky would open and I'd just put it off again. So..now that I am seriously at this, lol, I didn't want to have to dig three pages to find it again....I suppose I could have searched but I really didn't think about it.
 

QDanT

Settler
Mar 16, 2006
933
5
Yorkshire England
Scene One, Act One. (At Tescos)

Me: "I fancy a big tin of Tomato Soup."
Wife: "You're making another Hobo Stove aren't you?"
Me: "No, I just fancy some tomato soup."
Wife: "You're making another Hobo Stove aren't you?"
Me: "Yes." :eek:
Stu

Well here's my go :- scribed around bean tin on top of soup can cut through and peeled back with needle nose pliers, drilled tins and pushed together. The pot stand is a pinapple ring tin with the top cut off ( tin opener ) and using the bean tin scribed and cut out a hole in the bottom then used " church key " can opener for air slots. The billy's just a stainless tea pot ( charity shop )

1-1.jpg

1a.jpg

2-1.jpg

3-1.jpg

4-1.jpg


quite a good wood gas effect
cheers all Danny
 

Chance

Nomad
May 10, 2006
486
4
58
Aberdeenshire
Converti-billy_small.jpg

It's not illustrated, but the hobo shield fits (tightly) around the billy and is retained by the wire handle.

Still championing the bottomless hobo shield - here in its final set-up, protecting a remote-canister gas stove. Sketches for the stainless version are progressing, albeit very slowly.

(Actually, more an excuse for a gratuitous shot of breakfast on Little Oxen Craig. Ever wondered who buys those Handpresso coffee machines ? That'll be the softies like me, drinking fancy coffee with their bacon and eggs.)
shield1.jpg
]
 

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