Frosts Fanclub
- Thread starter Wilderbeast
- Start date
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
How can anyone be anything but a fan? If you doubled the price they would still be great value.
If anyone would like to see where they were made I visited the factory in Mora several years ago with Wille Sundqvist and posted some pictures in this thread
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28467&highlight=frosts+factory
In answer to the questions about why the clipper or mora is not full tang, it is not designed as a bushcraft knife and the UK bushcraft market is tiny compared to the numbers of these knives that are sold. It is the shear volume that makes them such good value for us.
The knife is designed as a multipurpose knife and most of them are sold to tradespeople and DIY folk. In most of scandinavia any job that would be done with a stanley knife in the UK is done with a mora. Ever carpet fitter, plumber, builder, carpenter and electrician has one on his belt. When I talked with the owners of the factory about them and said how nice it was to see a culture where folk bought knives that you could sharpen instead of disposable ones he they said many folk don't sharpen them, they are so cheap over there that they are virtually disposable like hard point saws.
The last few days I have been using a clipper as it was intended. I have been doing some DIY refitting our office. The carbon clipper was used for cutting plasterboard, whittling wood (trimming skirting board) opening tins of paint levering with the tip, cutting electrical wire, battoning through some of that metal angle bead that plasterers use with a claw hammer to batton, after all that it was still sharp enough for slicing open paper plaster bags and cutting cheese for lunch. It would take me 2 minutes to bring it back to "shaving sharp".
If anyone would like to see where they were made I visited the factory in Mora several years ago with Wille Sundqvist and posted some pictures in this thread
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28467&highlight=frosts+factory
In answer to the questions about why the clipper or mora is not full tang, it is not designed as a bushcraft knife and the UK bushcraft market is tiny compared to the numbers of these knives that are sold. It is the shear volume that makes them such good value for us.
The knife is designed as a multipurpose knife and most of them are sold to tradespeople and DIY folk. In most of scandinavia any job that would be done with a stanley knife in the UK is done with a mora. Ever carpet fitter, plumber, builder, carpenter and electrician has one on his belt. When I talked with the owners of the factory about them and said how nice it was to see a culture where folk bought knives that you could sharpen instead of disposable ones he they said many folk don't sharpen them, they are so cheap over there that they are virtually disposable like hard point saws.
The last few days I have been using a clipper as it was intended. I have been doing some DIY refitting our office. The carbon clipper was used for cutting plasterboard, whittling wood (trimming skirting board) opening tins of paint levering with the tip, cutting electrical wire, battoning through some of that metal angle bead that plasterers use with a claw hammer to batton, after all that it was still sharp enough for slicing open paper plaster bags and cutting cheese for lunch. It would take me 2 minutes to bring it back to "shaving sharp".
That's one of the best threads i have seen on here in quite some time, brilliant, thanks for sharing :You_Rock_
I too use a mora. Someone here fashioned a beautiful leather sheath for me, with the firesteel loop (which, incidentally, I LOVE). IMHO, this is an excellent all around belt knife; the only one I now carry when hiking (besides my multitool). 2 years, still going strong. Sharpening it has become zen-like to me too 
There sure are good wee utility knives I use mine around the garden a fair bit and for all sorts of odd jobs.I want to get myself a stainless one to use around the kitchen.
I not a big fan of the plastic sheath as well so I made myself a little leather one.
I not a big fan of the plastic sheath as well so I made myself a little leather one.
As rg598 asked here's two of mine
1) Frosts Lapplander 90
2) Frosts Lapplander 95
Both are full tang blades. These are great knives, I've handled around half-a-dozen of they and they take a nice edge as expected. They made various models from 75mm upto 115mm blades but all in stainless.
I also have several plastic handled knives and a few carving knives made by Frosts and their all really good.
Richard
I can not speak highly enough of the 510 and 545. These have 3/4 stick tang, not that it truly matters all that much on a mora. The 545 stainless (blue) makes a perfect bird and trout, especially in the plastic sheath.
Another Mora fan! To be honest, I've been using the E. Jonsson knives more recently, though the edge seems considerably more acute so I'll probably go back to the Clipper before long!
About stick-tangs breaking through the handle - how are you using that knife? I've battoned both of my stick-tang E. Jonsson blades with absolutely no problems, and even a Clipper blade I rehandled in wood - again, no issues at all. If the tang is going through the handle, I would suggest you apply more pressure to the blade and less to the handle - it is the blade, after all, that cuts.
No offence intended, mind!
Atb
Pete
About stick-tangs breaking through the handle - how are you using that knife? I've battoned both of my stick-tang E. Jonsson blades with absolutely no problems, and even a Clipper blade I rehandled in wood - again, no issues at all. If the tang is going through the handle, I would suggest you apply more pressure to the blade and less to the handle - it is the blade, after all, that cuts.
No offence intended, mind!
Atb
Pete
I tried battoning a Mora at the weekend and tried to break the handle by battoning both the spine and the handle, the knife is still like new so i imagine that there must have been some sort of flaw in the handle as they are very very tough little knives.
Do you still have the knife rg598 or any pics of it ?
I think i will get a few together and maybe do a destruction test but i will wait for fairer weather.
Do you still have the knife rg598 or any pics of it ?
I think i will get a few together and maybe do a destruction test but i will wait for fairer weather.
Sorry guys, no pics. I had the blade in the log, the log being close to the handle, and I was hitting the tip of the knife while putting pressure on the blade.
That wasn't my point though. They are not bad blades in any way, and with some care you should have no problem. My only issue was that for a very small cost increase you could take a good knife and turn it into a great one. As strong as a knife may be, it will always be stronger with a full tang (all things being equal).
If I had to guess as to why they are designed the way they are, I would say it's because they were traditinally made this way. Scandi knives have always had a hidden tang, and with the exception of the Sami, not full tangs. It probably came about because of the high cost of metal until very recently in history.
Again, I have other Moras which I use as carving knives without any problem, but if the cost of the improvement is so low-why not?
That wasn't my point though. They are not bad blades in any way, and with some care you should have no problem. My only issue was that for a very small cost increase you could take a good knife and turn it into a great one. As strong as a knife may be, it will always be stronger with a full tang (all things being equal).
If I had to guess as to why they are designed the way they are, I would say it's because they were traditinally made this way. Scandi knives have always had a hidden tang, and with the exception of the Sami, not full tangs. It probably came about because of the high cost of metal until very recently in history.
Again, I have other Moras which I use as carving knives without any problem, but if the cost of the improvement is so low-why not?
I imagine the cost of retooling and reconfiguring machines to give very little improvement is simply not worth it.
The cost has to be passed on to the end user and very few would pay more for a slighty longer tang in a clipper or Mora when you can buy a complete second knife for £7.00
Yes you can break them and i have destroyed a few myself but i was pushing them way beyond what they are designed to do and im sure the factory would say they never intended them to be battoned through a log.
The cost has to be passed on to the end user and very few would pay more for a slighty longer tang in a clipper or Mora when you can buy a complete second knife for £7.00
Yes you can break them and i have destroyed a few myself but i was pushing them way beyond what they are designed to do and im sure the factory would say they never intended them to be battoned through a log.
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
The full tang/stick tang debate is an interesting one. I for one am not as convinced as you that a full tang is so much of an improvement. Maybe if you want a crowbar but as a knife? Stick tangs are not weak, think sword, think billhook.
I like the look of a traditional scandi stick tang and I like that it is warmer to the hands on a cold day. I have not seen sami full tangs I suspect full tangs are a modern thing because they are quick and easy to make by stock removal on plate steel with modern adhesives. Stick tangs suit traditional forging and handle building methods without modern adhesives. I don't see one as being better or worse it comes down to what tools you want to use to make it. Now a drop forged bushcraft knife with integral pommel and bolster all out one piece of steel that would be cool. Loads of kitchen knives are made that way, I am sure if the bushcraft market continues we will see them.
I like the look of a traditional scandi stick tang and I like that it is warmer to the hands on a cold day. I have not seen sami full tangs I suspect full tangs are a modern thing because they are quick and easy to make by stock removal on plate steel with modern adhesives. Stick tangs suit traditional forging and handle building methods without modern adhesives. I don't see one as being better or worse it comes down to what tools you want to use to make it. Now a drop forged bushcraft knife with integral pommel and bolster all out one piece of steel that would be cool. Loads of kitchen knives are made that way, I am sure if the bushcraft market continues we will see them.
I have the clipper, Its a good knife and gets the job done.I take it over my F1 most of the time.
I love them.
I have been collecting knives for years, but only recently got round to trying a Mora. I now have several. They perform better than knives that I have owned that cost 15 times more.
My favourites are the 510 and 840.
I have been collecting knives for years, but only recently got round to trying a Mora. I now have several. They perform better than knives that I have owned that cost 15 times more.
My favourites are the 510 and 840.
I am a big fan to, love the hunter not sure on the number. Is there a uk dealer who stocks the full range? I am looking for a laminated carbon steel, wooden handle orange on the one I had dont know the number but its a great knife and cheap as chips.
Mark
Is there a uk dealer who stocks the full range? I am looking for a laminated carbon steel, wooden handle orange on the one I had dont know the number but its a great knife and cheap as chips.Mark
I am a big fan to, love the hunter not sure on the number.
Mark
If you got it from Sarnau and it has Mora made in Sweden" on the Blade I think it is anK J Eriksson knife. Eriksson, as I understand it, amalgamated with Frosts and the knives made in the transitional period were just stamped "Mora - made in Sweden".
I still have a couple of Erikssons stamped as such, as well as "Mora made in Sweden" in various layouts. The blades, handles and sheaths are all identical though.
I have rehandled loads of these and I love em!
Unable to get Erikssons now , I am using Jonssons for rehandling - still great knives!
I am also a fan, for it's the first and only knife I own! I've got a wooden handle one like the one on the right here. It was unfinished so i've decided to dye it a rosewood stain then varnish it with some danish oil.
...however i've stained it and it looks absolutely horrible. I don't think the dye has taken to the wood at all
Pete
