Forging

[tombear]

Very impressive! I thought I was being inordinately clever when I bent a bit of old brass curtain rod using a blow torch, a apair of pliers and a lump hammer as a anvil when I was making a fake serpantine for the middle sons wooden musket!

To the experts out their what would be the minimum kit I'd need to aquire to make a (rudimentary!) iron gresset?

Just in case (like me a few weeks back) anyone doesn't know what one is its a shallow boat shaped wrought iron dish with a handle at the middle of one side and often 4 stubby little legs, for the melting of tallow. I'd like one about 16 inches long and a couple of inches, maybe three deep and can't afford a "real" one. My original idea was to get a welder to stick ends etc on a lenght of 2 inch piping cut down the centre but I'm tart enough to want something a bit more pleasing on the eye!

ATB

Tom

 

[John Fenna]

It's only a mattor of time before you're banging out Damascus Steel Axe Heads....

Smoggy

You have to be joking!

 

[relfy]

Wow! I'm so impressed. Hehe Looks such fun And thanks also for the top tips!

 

[John Fenna]

That has to be sarcasm!
I ain't happy yet!

 

[Matt.S]

Very impressive! I thought I was being inordinately clever when I bent a bit of old brass curtain rod using a blow torch, a apair of pliers and a lump hammer as a anvil when I was making a fake serpantine for the middle sons wooden musket!

To the experts out their what would be the minimum kit I'd need to aquire to make a (rudimentary!) iron gresset?

Just in case (like me a few weeks back) anyone doesn't know what one is its a shallow boat shaped wrought iron dish with a handle at the middle of one side and often 4 stubby little legs, for the melting of tallow. I'd like one about 16 inches long and a couple of inches, maybe three deep and can't afford a "real" one. My original idea was to get a welder to stick ends etc on a lenght of 2 inch piping cut down the centre but I'm tart enough to want something a bit more pleasing on the eye!

ATB

Tom

What you're describing is a 'sunk' or 'raised' bowl, which is a technique often used by armour-makers and silversmiths.

As with most blacksmithing, all you 'need' is something to hit (sheet steel), something to hit with (a hammer, a ball-pein will probably suffice), something to hit on (a block of wood will do if you're hot-sinking, which you are) and something to get it hot (gas blowlamp will do, as will a smallish fire + forced air). Of course in this case you'll need something to hold the hot iron with (you can use locking pliers in lieu of 'proper' tongs). Safety gear is a good idea -- I suggest goggles/glasses, natural fibre clothing and perhaps a welder's gauntlet on your non-hammer hand.

The legs can be attached by any number of methods. If they're not on view I suggest getting a weldor to MIG them on. Perhaps they will be amenable to a trade?

 

[tombear]

I've all those bits to hand, less the sheet steel so I will have to source some and have a go!

Cheers

Tom

What you're describing is a 'sunk' or 'raised' bowl, which is a technique often used by armour-makers and silversmiths.

As with most blacksmithing, all you 'need' is something to hit (sheet steel), something to hit with (a hammer, a ball-pein will probably suffice), something to hit on (a block of wood will do if you're hot-sinking, which you are) and something to get it hot (gas blowlamp will do, as will a smallish fire + forced air). Of course in this case you'll need something to hold the hot iron with (you can use locking pliers in lieu of 'proper' tongs). Safety gear is a good idea -- I suggest goggles/glasses, natural fibre clothing and perhaps a welder's gauntlet on your non-hammer hand.

The legs can be attached by any number of methods. If they're not on view I suggest getting a weldor to MIG them on. Perhaps they will be amenable to a trade?

 

[slammer187]

Do you think you could show a few pictures of your forge I might try and rig up a "mini" forge from an old deep metal plate,a few tin cans and a hair drier!

 

[Matt.S]

This is an excerpt from a message I sent John Fenna; it's a crude but very effective setup and I've used it with charcoal and coke. Not long ago I used a piece of 22mm copper pipe as the tuyere (air pipe) in such a forge, using smithing coke as the fuel (a very intense fire) and had no difficulty in taking 1" round stock to a yellow heat (and above, oops!).

If you're wanting a 'quick-and-dirty' forge, dig a hole! The hole should be about 6-8 inches across and 4-6 inches deep. Put the air pipe ('tue' or 'tuyere') in a narrow trench cutting into the main hole and cover it with earth. If you keep it damp the pipe will be be cooled even against the most intense fire. In use you want to keep the hole filled with coals and a similar-sized mound of burning fuel above the surrounding level. One disadvantage of this system is that it's at ground level so not so easy on the knees or back. This can be mitigated by 'raising the ground', building a wooden box at waist height and filling it with earth.

I've also in the past stacked a few housebricks to form a firepit about the size of my fist, which worked well for small work.

As far as fuel goes there's a lot of choices. Your typical barbecue charcoal will do but it's usually expensive, sparky and made of rainforest. Avoid 'briquettes', they're full of fillers that make the fire cold and aren't good for steel. Coal and coke make for good choices but avoid any with a lot of sulfur -- it smells and is death to steel. Even peat and dried herbivore dung apparently work but I can't say I have any direct experience of these! Whatever your choice it should be broken to between pea and walnut size before use.

I'm slowly working on a 'bushcraft blacksmithing' book along the lines of John Fenna's excellent DIY book but it'll probably be a few months before it's ready.

 

[markheolddu]

Nice work John , The pot hangers look great

Mark

 

[TJRoots]

you have inspired me to attempt it myself.... this is gonna be a disaster

TJ

 

[John Fenna]

Made another steel striker today - bloomin curly handle snapped of just like before!
Aaaargh - still it is a great sparker...perhapse I am over working the metal and buiding in too many stresses....got a third under way but my footpump/bellows broke....not my day!

 

[Dave Budd]

when is it snapping off John?

when you quench? Try not to get the curly bit above orange, keep the heat where it needs to be

when you drop it? that's your own silly fault!

whilst forging? you are getting it too hot or hitting it too cold

addictive though, isn't it?

 

[Matt.S]

Did the break occur at the shoulder? If so make sure you aren't giving it a sharp, square corner, it acts as a focal point for stresses.

 

[relfy]

That has to be sarcasm!
I ain't happy yet!

Oops sorry for late reply, no no sarcasm! I've been hanging around americans and they are much nicer than us I am impressed - mostly by the speed by which you got stuck in! I'm still at the 'thinking about it' stage

 

[John Fenna]

when is it snapping off John?

when you quench? Try not to get the curly bit above orange, keep the heat where it needs to be

when you drop it? that's your own silly fault!

whilst forging? you are getting it too hot or hitting it too cold

addictive though, isn't it?

When giving it a quick go on the belt sander to clean it up!

 

[John Fenna]

Did the break occur at the shoulder? If so make sure you aren't giving it a sharp, square corner, it acts as a focal point for stresses.

No - a nice curl......

 

[Dave Budd]

in that case try clamping the striking oart in a vice (lightly) and draw the temper off the rest with a torch before cleaning it up

 

[John Fenna]

Now why didn't I think of that!
Ahhh - live and learn....from the Master...

 

[Silverclaws]

I have access to a decent forge, as forging is part of my college course, well the course direction I have elected to take as metalsmithing is my interest. I have already been banned from making knives in the college, even though it was one of my knives that pursuaded the college to give me a place. That reason is purely and simply to do with political correctness and I was told when I challenged them that the college does not want to be involved, if someone picks up the knife and stabs someone. Fine I says, in that case, you may as well withdraw all the scribers,chisels, scalpels, scissors, screwdrivers, hammers, in fact anything, including the materials, because any of it is a killing weapon to someone so inclined. Anyhows, if anyone picks up one of my blades, chances are they will leave their skin stuck to it, as they are invariably at black heat when not at red.

But for other stuff, I source my iron from sunken and rotted away wrecks in the estuary, and , it is iron, I am going to make use of that wonderful grain pattern for my arts. Koftgari planned for the autumn, inlaying gold into iron jewellery, but first have to make a micro forge, as the bits of metal am working with get lost so easy in the workshop forges.

 

[armie]

It's only a mattor of time before you're banging out Damascus Steel Axe Heads....

Smoggy

I've a question about this.

I used to think that "Damascus" steel was about the structure of the steel itself, accomplished through hammering and folding it lots of times.
But I read of people etching some wavy lines onto any old steel and calling it Damascus! Is this as fake as a henna temporary tattoo, or is it the real thing?