I saw a fair few people using Ritter Grips at the Moot and was impressed with the overall feel of the knife. Do you feel that this knife is a good bushcrafting knife? Is it up to replacing a fixed blade for you?
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That would depend on your definition of bushcraft. It is a very good outdoor/camping knife, but that is not the extent of what many refer to as bushcraft.
I would have no worries on a camping trip in only having one of the larger RSKMk1 (Ritter Survival Knife: Mark 1). In fact, last year I was in the Lake District for a week and didnt need anything more than a folder. There are several factors to consider, are you going to be carrying any other cutting tools, saws, axes or parangs? Realistically, how much firecraft will you be personally involved with? Are you likely to want to do a lot of wood carving? The use of an axe or parang removes the need for you to split wood with your knife, and while the Axis-lock is very good, I would not choose a folding knife for this work if I could help it. Many camping sites dont allow fires. There are many areas that one can hike where there isnt much in the way of fuel for making fires either. This relates back to the previous point. Unless you are going to be splitting wood and making a lot of feather sticks, this folder will be perfectly adequate. Lastly, I have found that the depth of the blade, while making it an excellent slicer, does tend to make it less handy as a wood carving tool. Not saying that it wont work, just that its turning circle is going to be bigger than, say, a Frost or Wild Finn.
I guess your question relates back to why people carry knives in the first place.
In years gone by the main use I put my knives to was cleaning game. Much as I felt that I should be packing a sheath knife in the field, I found that the rabbits, squirrels and pigeons I bagged didnt need more than a folder in the field. It was lighter and easier to stalk with than having a sheath on my belt. At home I used the sheath knife for butchering as it was easier to clean. When I got into bushcraft I again started to pack a sheath knife but have since found that during the average meet-up weekend, slightly rough camping trip, or walks in the woods, the knife doesnt see a lot of use for the classic bushcraft tasks. There are few places to make fire, little time to quietly get on with some carving or spoon making, no traps to make, or wooden equipment to re-build. Most of the knife work I need to do involves food prep, very basic whittling (pot hooks), and cordage cutting. The Ritter handles all those pretty well while remaining light, portable, and reasonably easy to clean. Its not as easy as a frame-lock, but most of those are a bit more expensive.
If I was going camping, the Ritter would go. If I had my GB Mini, I would happily have it in place of a fixed blade for camping with fire. If I was going into deep bush, say way off-track in Scotland, or overseas, I would still want something a little more robust.
I would have no worries on a camping trip in only having one of the larger RSKMk1 (Ritter Survival Knife: Mark 1). In fact, last year I was in the Lake District for a week and didnt need anything more than a folder. There are several factors to consider, are you going to be carrying any other cutting tools, saws, axes or parangs? Realistically, how much firecraft will you be personally involved with? Are you likely to want to do a lot of wood carving? The use of an axe or parang removes the need for you to split wood with your knife, and while the Axis-lock is very good, I would not choose a folding knife for this work if I could help it. Many camping sites dont allow fires. There are many areas that one can hike where there isnt much in the way of fuel for making fires either. This relates back to the previous point. Unless you are going to be splitting wood and making a lot of feather sticks, this folder will be perfectly adequate. Lastly, I have found that the depth of the blade, while making it an excellent slicer, does tend to make it less handy as a wood carving tool. Not saying that it wont work, just that its turning circle is going to be bigger than, say, a Frost or Wild Finn.
I guess your question relates back to why people carry knives in the first place.
In years gone by the main use I put my knives to was cleaning game. Much as I felt that I should be packing a sheath knife in the field, I found that the rabbits, squirrels and pigeons I bagged didnt need more than a folder in the field. It was lighter and easier to stalk with than having a sheath on my belt. At home I used the sheath knife for butchering as it was easier to clean. When I got into bushcraft I again started to pack a sheath knife but have since found that during the average meet-up weekend, slightly rough camping trip, or walks in the woods, the knife doesnt see a lot of use for the classic bushcraft tasks. There are few places to make fire, little time to quietly get on with some carving or spoon making, no traps to make, or wooden equipment to re-build. Most of the knife work I need to do involves food prep, very basic whittling (pot hooks), and cordage cutting. The Ritter handles all those pretty well while remaining light, portable, and reasonably easy to clean. Its not as easy as a frame-lock, but most of those are a bit more expensive.
If I was going camping, the Ritter would go. If I had my GB Mini, I would happily have it in place of a fixed blade for camping with fire. If I was going into deep bush, say way off-track in Scotland, or overseas, I would still want something a little more robust.
I take it you've checked out the Ritter website Equipped to Survive ?
In general the site is not too easy to navigate but the knife is right there in the middle
In general the site is not too easy to navigate but the knife is right there in the middle
Chris, thanks for the input, that is exactly what I was trying to solicit. I have a GB hatchet and SFA and can see your point about using them plus the RSK. I tend to carry my Seb for general use but noticed that the RSK has a flat grind which I assumed would be more useful for carving, so your experience with it in that area is interesting. I will try doing some pot notches with the Seb and see how well it copes as I've normally used a scandi for carving tasks.
Sam, thanks for that, though I've been reading ETS since he started it. I was especially looking for feedback from the users at the moot in a bushcraft context which Doug doesn't really cover.
Any other RSK users?
Sam, thanks for that, though I've been reading ETS since he started it. I was especially looking for feedback from the users at the moot in a bushcraft context which Doug doesn't really cover.
Any other RSK users?
Its late and I am too tired to write more, but I too am a Sebenza owner and the Ritter is the better outdoors knife, hands down. I will detail some reasons, but not right now
C_Claycomb said:Its late and I am too tired to write more, but I too am a Sebenza owner and the Ritter is the better outdoors knife, hands down. I will detail some reasons, but not right now
Yes please. While you are at it, do you favour the M2 or S30V for the outdoors? (I'm thinking typical bushcraft camping chores, whittling, stick making, food prep etc)
I wasn't building log cabins, but I've got by very comfortably with a mini-RSK and a folding bow saw for wild camping. I had a Woodlore to hand, but didn't find a use for it.
To emphasise, this was more marshmallow-toasting that mammoth-hunting.
To emphasise, this was more marshmallow-toasting that mammoth-hunting.
I'm in the Marshmallow Toasting camp.
I've got some nice fixed blades but find that more and more I am "only" taking a folder out to the woods.
I sleep under a tarp, have a fire for warmth and cooking, but find that I don't really need a fixed blade. I don't do carving or woodwork, and my fire wood is collected from the ground. My knife mainly get used for food preparation and cutting cordage.
So the fixed blades, axes and saws usually get left at home and I take a Benchmade folder and a SAK.
Maybe I'm not technically a "Bushcrafter" - just a "Camper" (who sleeps under a tarp in the woods next to a fire)
I've got some nice fixed blades but find that more and more I am "only" taking a folder out to the woods.
I sleep under a tarp, have a fire for warmth and cooking, but find that I don't really need a fixed blade. I don't do carving or woodwork, and my fire wood is collected from the ground. My knife mainly get used for food preparation and cutting cordage.
So the fixed blades, axes and saws usually get left at home and I take a Benchmade folder and a SAK.
Maybe I'm not technically a "Bushcrafter" - just a "Camper" (who sleeps under a tarp in the woods next to a fire)
On the steel question, I am not sure which of those two performs "better" as treated by Benchmade. I have three knives in S30V and they all sharpen a little differently. The Ritter seems not to take as keen an edge as the Spyderco, nor hold it as long, but the edge is a LOT thinner, so this may be the result of Benchmade heat treating for a bit more toughness. A friend has an old Benchmade AFCK with an M2 blade and that cut like a razor and held it for a long time. I would very much like to have something made of M2, but as yet don't have much experience of it. The only thing is that the M2 version, being non-stainless, has a coating on the blade which may drag a little when slicing food.
Since I use the Ritter for food prep I am happier with the stainless version. The M2 is interesting due to edge holding and novelty, as far as I am concerned. I know that Bardster has both versions, maybe you could poke him for more feedback...there might even be some info over on British Blades, I don't know.
As to the Sebenza, well, I have the new style (as opposed to the "Classic") in BG-42 and while I love it as a piece of engineering, I have rather gone off it as a using knife. I carried it for the best part of two years and initially intended it to be a folding bushcraft/outdoors knife. I found fairly quickly that the convex secondary bevel, while sharp, was too obtuse to cut wood, and the narrow handle, which made carrying it so nice, bit my hand if I put real force behind making feather sticks. These are not things that the knife was designed to do.
As a tough utility knife it was pretty good. Two things happened that made me stop carrying it. First, the one I had had a detent that was too shallow and one day it opened in my pocket...no injury, but a clear sign that I needed to get it fixed. The Chris Reeve service was excellent, I wasn't charged anything, the knife was returned having not only had the detent deepened, but the handle re-blasted, the blade re-tumbled, and the edge honed back to original condition. I would have been over the moon, except that I had spent quite a lot of time turning the convex bevel into a flat, and reducing the angle so it would bit wood properly. Also, while without the Seb, I felt a bit un-dressed, so bought a Combat Elite RRF which sports a titanium handle and S30V blade, but is about $150 cheaper than a Sebbie. I found that with but one exception the RRF was a better utility knife than the Chris Reeve, it even cuts wood better. So when the Seb came back all prettied up, it got packed away into its box.
Another good reason for using the Ritter in the field instead of the Sebenza is the cost, one cost about $105, the other at least about $350
There aren't a lot of folders out there that are really designed for outdoor use. Some are meant as hunting knives, some are more general use, but the Ritter has been put together with a blade designed for outdoor tasks, and a handle with better than average ergonomics. The only other folder with similar pedigree that I can think of is the SERE 2000 (can't resist posting this link http://www.kingsley-hughes.com/outdoors/kit/kn.asp) The Ritter though is a LOT lighter and less bulky, so is easier to carry.
Since I use the Ritter for food prep I am happier with the stainless version. The M2 is interesting due to edge holding and novelty, as far as I am concerned. I know that Bardster has both versions, maybe you could poke him for more feedback...there might even be some info over on British Blades, I don't know.
As to the Sebenza, well, I have the new style (as opposed to the "Classic") in BG-42 and while I love it as a piece of engineering, I have rather gone off it as a using knife. I carried it for the best part of two years and initially intended it to be a folding bushcraft/outdoors knife. I found fairly quickly that the convex secondary bevel, while sharp, was too obtuse to cut wood, and the narrow handle, which made carrying it so nice, bit my hand if I put real force behind making feather sticks. These are not things that the knife was designed to do.
As a tough utility knife it was pretty good. Two things happened that made me stop carrying it. First, the one I had had a detent that was too shallow and one day it opened in my pocket...no injury, but a clear sign that I needed to get it fixed. The Chris Reeve service was excellent, I wasn't charged anything, the knife was returned having not only had the detent deepened, but the handle re-blasted, the blade re-tumbled, and the edge honed back to original condition. I would have been over the moon, except that I had spent quite a lot of time turning the convex bevel into a flat, and reducing the angle so it would bit wood properly. Also, while without the Seb, I felt a bit un-dressed, so bought a Combat Elite RRF which sports a titanium handle and S30V blade, but is about $150 cheaper than a Sebbie. I found that with but one exception the RRF was a better utility knife than the Chris Reeve, it even cuts wood better. So when the Seb came back all prettied up, it got packed away into its box.
Another good reason for using the Ritter in the field instead of the Sebenza is the cost, one cost about $105, the other at least about $350
There aren't a lot of folders out there that are really designed for outdoor use. Some are meant as hunting knives, some are more general use, but the Ritter has been put together with a blade designed for outdoor tasks, and a handle with better than average ergonomics. The only other folder with similar pedigree that I can think of is the SERE 2000 (can't resist posting this link
http://www.kingsley-hughes.com/outdoors/kit/kn.asp) The Ritter though is a LOT lighter and less bulky, so is easier to carry.
Thanks Chris, I'll talk to Bardster. I think I may end up with both!
I know what you mean about the Sebbie's cost, mine is a Wood Inlay (one of only 60 produced in that year), but I don't buy stuff to keep in a drawer, I want to use them!
I know what you mean about the Sebbie's cost, mine is a Wood Inlay (one of only 60 produced in that year), but I don't buy stuff to keep in a drawer, I want to use them!
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