Does anyone know how to get a razor sharp edge on their bush knife?

[Wild Planet Tramp]

Hi all, Ive had a nice Gerber sheath knife for over a year now, can't remember the model name but anyway no matter how much sharpening I do with it I only seem to get it sharp, not razor sharp, it definately doesnt take the hairs off my arms or glide through paper. Ive been using a set of Am Tech grit stones ranging from 150-600 then honing the blade on a real fine grit oil stone but I still seam to be pissing in the wind. I get out into the field and can't even shave feather sticks properly!

any advice folks? Ive heard about these Japanese water stones but is it really necessary to go and shell out 20-30 quid on a sharpening stone?

 

[HillBill]

If you cant get a hair popping edge with 600g let alone finer stuff a waterstone wont make a bean of difference. What kind of bevel does it have? Single flat bevel (scandi) or a flat grind with secondary? I'm guessing the second. What steel is it?

 

[copper_head]

I have a set of Ice Bears which are brilliant but not necessary, previous to those I had set of these Arkansas stones which also do the job well (not as easy as the water stones though). There's a tutorial on here on how to make your own from wet n dry sandpaper. Not tried myself but it works well from what I hear.

 

[Wild Planet Tramp]

It's a Gerber Big Rock Camp and the review is here;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCXNoUoRr04

THe guy says it's almost full flat ground type blade and 440a steel

 

[Wild Planet Tramp]

Cool Kit, il check out those links. I must say though the 3 set of am tech stones are only cheap small and portable as opposed to the slab type that lays in a holder thus im not able to really run my blade down the stones i have to run the stones down the blade. I can get more grinding pressure with the honing oil stone as that one is larger with a base holder. Maybe Im just not using the right technique also.

 

[HillBill]

Theres your problem.... its easily fixed.... change the steel type and you'll be good.

Seriously...440A is pretty rubbish for a knife steel ( in comparison to something like 01). The only good one from that range is 440c IMO. Its very sensitive to correct heat treatment and is still only an average at best steel when HT correctly.

Thats likely to be your biggest issue tbh. The only other thing it could be is your not holding the knife at a consistent angle and part sharpening, part dulling the edge.

 

[Wild Planet Tramp]

ok cheers il take your advice seen as you make knives lol,a bit dissapointing though I thought i had a great knife, I dont really know the significance of 440,a,b,c, etc is it the hardness of the steel or the bevel angle or what? How about the Scandinavian Moras are they a good buy? Also yeah my technique could be the problem.

 

[HillBill]

Its the composition that makes up the steel, each one has a slightly different formula. Not all steels make good blade steel. Each composition will have different results. Some will harden more than others, some will be more corrosion resistant etc.. 440a has highest corrosion resistance but the lowest carbon content of the 3, 440c has highest carbon, lowest corrosion resistance.

 

[Wild Planet Tramp]

ok yeah I understand now ive just been on a few knife forums also, so my knife is tougher more corrosion resistant but doesnt cut anything except toilet roll hmmm oh well ya live and learn lol.

thanks for the advice anyways.

 

[HillBill]

No worries. You'll get it to cut stuff, just not as well as other steels. Its an ok ish everyday type knife steel, but not a serious tool steel. I've seen it said its as good as 12c27 that mora uses.... but it aint.... nowhere near

 

[mountainm]

It may fair better with a more toothy edge to it. With a coarser grit. Hair popping is for showing off anyway.

Working edges need continual stropping to stay hair popping. The only knives I keep that sharp constantly are my wood carving knives and chisels. A micro serrated edge will likely not shave but will cut very effectively.

 

[Jonboy83]

sharpening at home i use a £3.99 whetstone, and my old butchers steel, gives a razor sharp edge, I have attempted chemical sharpening and that gave excellent results also. (about 5-10 mins dipped in ferric chloride) out in the bush I have a nice flat river stone that my Dad used to use and a miniature sharpening steel, I find that after a days use spend 5 mins on your knife with a steel, and unless damaged you shouldnt have to use anything else for a long long time

 

[Wild Planet Tramp]

It's a very robust knife with a full length tange,great for battoning but i struggle when coming to sharpen points on branches and making feather sticks especially, and didn't do well when i skinned a rabbit a couple of weeks back. I looking at the Mora Companion on you tube, that seems razor sharp but not robust enough for battoning etc but for £15 it looks tempting, a bit annoying though when ive already shelled out 33 quid for the Gerber, why can't one tool just do the job!

 

[Wild Planet Tramp]

Would you recommend the Mora Companion? I watched a few reviews on you tube last night and it's well affordable for me.

 

[HillBill]

Can't go wrong with a mora, and they will batton ok. If your worried you could get the mora robust.

Or buy a "proper" knife from me

 

[copper_head]

Yeah you can't go wrong with a Mora.

*Edit: Hillbill beat me to it*

 

[Wild Planet Tramp]

haha cheers HillBill your knives look great just way outa my price range!

 

[Wild Planet Tramp]

Ok a Mora Robust it's gonna be!!

 

[ged]

Mark's right about the steel I'm afraid, 440a is never going to hold a really impressive edge. On the other hand, do you really need one? There's a sort of Crocodile Dundee macho thing about being able to shave with your camp knife but personally I don't see the, er, point of going to that much trouble for something that you're probably just going to abuse at some stage if you spend any serious time in the wilds. There's a trade-off between razor sharp and tough enough to take some rough treatment, and my feeling is that a fixed blade on your belt usually needs to be somewhere near middle of the road. Not as fine as a razor, but no great chopper either. Almost anything can serve in that role, but if it's as corrosion resistant as your knife it won't take so much looking after in wet conditions which is a real bonus in the UK where we get a lot of those.

So don't throw away the big lump, you can always batton with it. I have a couple similar that I'm quite fond of. My take on it is that very roughly the bigger the knife the less sharp I need it to be. Having said that I like a really sharp, light machete for brambles and a really sharp, heavy parang for tree limbs. But it's just a mixture of personal preference, what I do with the things, and what I can afford.

 

[Dave-the-rave]

440a can get sharp enough to shave hair though if it's decent and heat treated properly.
The Chinese are proving that and I believe Gerber are now made in China.