Does anyone know how to get a razor sharp edge on their bush knife?

[leon-1]

Mora of Sweden. Generally for this you can read, good, cheap, reliable, decent grind, so on and so forth.

You can't go too far wrong with the Mora's and with the grind that it has you'll find it a lot easier to carve / woodcraft.

You can get a really sharp edge on 440a, having said that you can also get a really sharp edge on a toffee, maintaining that edge though will be damned nigh impossible.

 

[The Noble Savage]

I've had several knives in 440a, including a Buck Scholar and a Schrade Trail Boss. I had not trouble with the the Buck's steel taking and holding an edge, up to and including some impromptu processing of tough skinned game. It stayed razor sharp throughout. The Schrade gets ridiculously sharp, but I've never really tested it's edge-holding; not that I care, because in the field, I'd rather have something I can put an edge back on than something I need to stay sharp a week at a time. In any case the Schrade was more than up to field dressing a deer and served to cut through ribs without damaging the blade or appreciably dulling. In short, there are "better" steels than 440a, but it is very corrosion resistant, takes an edge easily, and holds it well enough for a weekend adventure.

In part, that's because of decent/good heat treatment, but I don't go in for the criticism of non-super steels. Yes, we are blessed with a variety of choices, but 440c was damn good steel 30 years ago and it still is. I've had knives of ATS 34, CPM S30V, 1095 (and a few other common carbon steels), Carbon V, Case CV, 440c, 440a, 425HC, AUS8, VG10, and a few others. Properly heat treated and with proper geometries, they all got sharp enough to do anything I asked of them and then some. Many were far easier to sharpen than others, and I personally prefer softer steel to harder steel for ease of resharpening in the field. Some required a fair amount of maintenance in the field to prevent corrosion, especially on canoe trips or in the event of foul weather.

None of this should be read as an implicit criticism of the Mora, which is an excellent knife that has earned its popularity. If you are going to baton, get a knife on the softer side to discourage chipping the blade or breaking it, for instance not S30V, in my experience. Again, the Mora should excel here and the Scandi grind is easy to retouch. Need I mention that, in my experience (as a non-metallurgist), the Mora is hardened to about 58 rh, just like most 440a and 440c?

Anyone who knows more about this can feel free to correct me.

 

[petrochemicals]

If you really want to shave hairs with a SS knife try a small thin abrasive knife steel about 3/8" inch in diameter, that should do it and have you shaving your arms in no time, perhaps with a rougher edge. As for stainless itself, the alloy never seems to become an alloy, more of a compound, easily fractured, weak, etc.
I don't rate hardness as factor that makes a good knife, diamonds are hard but easily impacted, and it seems to make it more difficult to sharpen, if going by hardness alone, chipping during sharpenning etc.

Respects hillbill

 

[The Noble Savage]

I didn't find that stainless generally was more brittle than carbon, but rather that the carbon was a bit less hardened and therefore more rugged/durable/less prone to chip. Not so S30V...

Stainless at low to mid rh should be pretty damn tough, and the alloys allow you some latitude in care if you'll be out for a while or in wet/salty conditions.

 

[HillBill]

Generally carbon blades are tougher than stainless at the same RC. Ever see any worthwhile stainless axes or machetes? There are exceptions now though, with the development of powder metallurgy stainless steels things are much more balanced. Rwl-34 and Elmax being the two that immediately spring to mind.

 

[mrcharly]

Stainless is favoured for racing axes (takes a higher polish).

With softer stainless steel forget about getting a 'shaving' edge. It's possible but hard work and pointless.

Use a coarse stone - say 250grit - and work on the edge until you don't have a 'wire' (look up 'wire edge). You now have a toothy rough edge that won't last long in use. Now strop that on some leather, newspaper or somesuch. That will polish up the edge a bit, remove the weak 'teeth' leaving a fine jagged edge. Brilliant for slicing through meat and will whittle okish.

 

[mountainm]

It may fair better with a more toothy edge to it. With a coarser grit. Hair popping is for showing off anyway.

Working edges need continual stropping to stay hair popping. The only knives I keep that sharp constantly are my wood carving knives and chisels. A micro serrated edge will likely not shave but will cut very effectively.

Stainless is favoured for racing axes (takes a higher polish).

With softer stainless steel forget about getting a 'shaving' edge. It's possible but hard work and pointless.

Use a coarse stone - say 250grit - and work on the edge until you don't have a 'wire' (look up 'wire edge). You now have a toothy rough edge that won't last long in use. Now strop that on some leather, newspaper or somesuch. That will polish up the edge a bit, remove the weak 'teeth' leaving a fine jagged edge. Brilliant for slicing through meat and will whittle okish.

Great minds...

 

[tim_n]

I've been using a diamond sharpener and follow with a strop or the back of my belt. Seems to keep my knife keen. Even my rubbish illegal looking stainless one I was given.

Stropping is extra effective with some of Dave Budds smurf paste. Less said about that the better.

I use a standard £11 mora for battening. I've had no issues with it and its about 4 years old. When the handle breaks you can always reset in another bit of wood

I've seen the really cheap one (£7.50?) snap in half. It's not really meant for battening.

 

[Wild Planet Tramp]

Well thanks alot everyone for the useful information, you all seem to know what you are on about, well ive got my Mora Robust on order so I can't wait to test it out in the field, although I will say that the Gerbar I have is very robust, full tang, and great for battoning so I think he's still a force to be reckoned with and still a good asset.

cheers all

 

[Squidders]

For sharpening your Gerber I recommend the same system I use for my Gene Ingram knives... Lansky. While a scandi ground knife has a broad flat edge to rest against a stone, the thinner edge of you knife is tricky without using either a set shape like a cheap V shaped sharpener or using a guide which the lansky has. I find it gives good consistent results and the knives are as sharp as can be (though I'm still unsure if my hair does make a popping noise when it's shaved!) I mean, what's that all about eh?))

 

[Bladeophile]

There are many short cuts to sharpening these days - but I still think it is worthwhile to learn how to do it the old fashioned way - by hand like cabinet makers do. But like every skill it means P P and more P! Then by all means try some sharpening gizmos. But you can practise safely on your 440a blade and get better. Meanwhile, treat yourself to a Mora Carbon heavy duty. Very strong and won't break the bank.