Deja vu with the Woodlore

gregorach

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 15, 2005
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Ach, some people are just jealous that they can't afford such things... ;)

Personally, a good chunk of the reason I bought a Paul Baker knife was that I wanted something handmade, by a single craftsman, in the UK.

I have to say, having handled one of the micarta WS woodies, that I much prefer my Paul Baker. The handle on the WS woodie seems far too narrow by comparison - and I don't have particularly large hands. But then, handle shape is very much a matter of personal preference.
 

jojo

Need to contact Admin...
Aug 16, 2006
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Marts said:
Magnus does make exceedingly nice knives..

Juniperburl3.jpg



Sadly this one doesn't look as neat as this any more as I just had to use it. :rolleyes:

Citadel3.jpg
Could someone tell me the name/site of this knifemaker? I have lost all my bookmarks along the entire content of my computer which was wiped out by a worm :(
Thanks a bunch :)
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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Jojo,

The maker is Magnus Axelson. He is currently Swedish knifemaking champion.

I had a knife from him a couple of years back (see post #5 on this thread). The photos go nowhere near doing his work justice, they are far, far better than they look.

http://web.telia.com/~u26217332/eng.htm

Clearly this is no cheap knife, but if you want one to leave to your grandchildren, tell Magnus Hi from me - and I'll be sending him the next round of pictures of his knife being given a solid workout soon!

Red
 

mrostov

Nomad
Jan 2, 2006
410
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addyb said:
May I ask how the Woodlore knife is controversial? I mean, other than the insane price tag attached to it what does it do that a Mora knife doesn't? Is the steel better? The grind superior? The construction done to a higher quality? I understand that it is endorsed by His Royal Highness Raymond Mears aka. The Donut King, and that that may be a factor in the price but still, how is the knife itself controversial?

Curious,

Adam

The 'Woodlore' knife just looks to me a LOT like a small Old Hickory 'Paring' knife made out of tempered 1095 steel, except an Old Hickory paring knife is $5 brand new through Amazon.

When I was a kid, seemed like everyone in the rural US used a wide variety of Old Hickory knives in their kitchens, from paring knives, to butcher knives, to meat cleavers, and they had a reputation for staying seriously sharp. Ontario still makes the Old Hickory line of knives. A lot of guys in the US have discovered that you can take an Old Hickory 6" 'Skinner' and with just a couple of cuts and a tad bit of trimming it makes a passable 'Nessmuk' knife.

The reason I or anyone else I know seldom if ever used Old Hickory paring knives for serious outdoor work as a primary hunting knife is that they are not the best knife for such use (straight small handle with no fingerguard). They do make a good 'patch knife'. IMHO, the Woodlore, like any other paring knife, probably won't do so good with the Blood & Olive Oil test.

For long term living in the wilderness, primitive or not, your main food source will be animal protein. You have to kill animals on a regular basis, gut them, skin them, cut them apart, and use the pieces for food, clothing, tools, shelter, etc.

Fresh, wet blood is about as slippery as fresh automotive motor oil. Fat is slippery too.

So, if you want to get a good idea how well your knife will work under field conditions gutting, skinning, and butchering a deer, pig, javelina, elk, moose, antelope, caribou, etc, especialy if it's a small, 3" - 4" blade that you need to get close in with, then do this.

If you don't have access to real, fresh blood, then rub olive oil all over your knife, then get your hands covered with olive oil, then with your razor sharp knife and your hands both all covered with olive oil, take a large, fat, whole chicken and skin it, cut it apart, and prepare it for use (Rabbits are not the best criiter to do this test with and get good feedback from, use a chicken, a goat, a pig, etc.).

This should give you something of an idea pretty quickly just how well you can use your knife to dress out and skin a larger game animal under field conditions and whether or not you might want to consider at least having a meaningful fingerguard larger than a mere bump on a short, straight knife. Those very pretty, very smooth, polished wood handles you tend to see a lot also might not be the best idea either if you're going to be doing a lot of cutting on something with fat and slippery liquids in it.

Ray Mear's 'Woodlore' knife 4-1/3" blade - a whopping £235. That's somewhere around US$458. You could go down to Walmart and buy 2 brand new Marlin model 336 caliber .30-30 lever action rifles for that, plus slings and a couple boxes of ammo.
raymearswoodloreknife.jpg


Old Hickory 3-1/4" blade 'Paring' knife average cost, new, about US$5 - razor sharp 1095 tempered carbon steel
QN-7533.jpg


Old Hickory 4" blade 'Paring' knife
QN-7504.jpg


Mora knives - IMHO, a much better designed handle than a 'Woodlore' and at only a tiny fraction of the price.
moraknives.jpg


Buck 'Vanguard' with a 4-1/8" blade, either 420HC or S30V steel - probably one of the best designed and constructed mass produced hunting and bushcraft knives currently on the market. The rosewood handle is pretty and a bit pricier, but the rubber-like krayton handle is more practical. I don't favor the gut-hook version myself. The Vanguard is a fairly popular hunting knife in the US.
phpen98nE_550-.75x550_31724.jpg


Marbles 'Plainsman' 4-1/2" blade 0170-6 tool steel - Of the natural style handle materials, bone, either natural or simulated, probably offers one of the best grips when slippery. Marbles makes a superb general purpose knife that's extremely tough.
SMplainsmanJigged.jpg
 

jojo

Need to contact Admin...
Aug 16, 2006
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England's most easterly point
British Red said:
Jojo,

The maker is Magnus Axelson. He is currently Swedish knifemaking champion.

I had a knife from him a couple of years back (see post #5 on this thread). The photos go nowhere near doing his work justice, they are far, far better than they look.

http://web.telia.com/~u26217332/eng.htm

Clearly this is no cheap knife, but if you want one to leave to your grandchildren, tell Magnus Hi from me - and I'll be sending him the next round of pictures of his knife being given a solid workout soon!

Red

Thanks Red. I like his work I must say. They do look expensive! :D
 

TheGreenMan

Native
Feb 17, 2006
1,000
8
beyond the pale
mrostov said:
The 'Woodlore' knife just looks to me a LOT like...

You pair are the ‘doughnuts’, for comparing a hand forged blade with a Mora. Get real.

By the way, I’ve seen a Woodlore prepare a deer and it did just fine. The person concerned had all their finger and thumbs when they had finished.

Best regards,
Paul.
 
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British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
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jojo said:
Thanks Red. I like his work I must say. They do look expensive! :D
Jojo,

Having one, I can say they aren't expensive - they just cost quite a lot of money.

Red
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,888
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Mercia
Mrostov,

we normally see eye to eye on these things, but this time I must repectfully disagree

mrostov said:
, the Woodlore, like any other paring knife, probably won't do so good with the Blood & Olive Oil test.

My Paul Baker (looks much the same as a woody) has been used for skinning, gralloching, food prep, woodwork, shelterbuilding etc. Its never slipped in my hands. Its been so soaked in blood that the yew slabs changed colour. Neither has the Axelson shown above (theres photos around of them both working on everything form large deer to rabbits.. I find a guard just gets in the way for many many tasks.

mrostov said:
,
For long term living in the wilderness, primitive or not, your main food source will be animal protein. You have to kill animals on a regular basis, gut them, skin them, cut them apart, and use the pieces for food, clothing, tools, shelter, etc.

Well, actually most hunter gatherer societies uxeisted predominantly on gathering - up to 80% of their food sources were vegetable based. I acknowledge the use and utility of animal foodstuffs but they are just one of many food sources - variety and flexibility are the hallmarks of the man who eats well - according to the seasons, terrain, climate and availability


mrostov said:
,
Fresh, wet blood is about as slippery as fresh automotive motor oil. Fat is slippery too.

So, if you want to get a good idea how well your knife will work under field conditions gutting, skinning, and butchering a deer, pig, javelina, elk, moose, antelope, caribou, etc, especialy if it's a small, 3" - 4" blade that you need to get close in with, then do this.

Well, a good half of those species are not native here, so why not have a knife adapted to the local needs? My knife will handle up to deer and nothing bigger than than exists as a land mammal so I'd be stupid to carry a knife to dress a prey I will never see


mrostov said:
,
Ray Mear's 'Woodlore' knife 4-1/3" blade - a whopping £235. That's somewhere around US$458. You could go down to Walmart and buy 2 brand new Marlin model 336 caliber .30-30 lever action rifles for that, plus slings and a couple boxes of ammo.
raymearswoodloreknife.jpg


Old Hickory 3-1/4" blade 'Paring' knife average cost, new, about US$5 - razor sharp 1095 tempered carbon steel
QN-7533.jpg


Old Hickory 4" blade 'Paring' knife
QN-7504.jpg

They have a different blade shape, handle shape, grind, steel and profile, they are the samwe length - there the simialrity ends.

mrostov said:
Mora knives - IMHO, a much better designed handle than a 'Woodlore' and at only a tiny fraction of the price.
moraknives.jpg

No argument here - I'd rather have one of these than that marbles below :sigh:

mrostov said:
Buck 'Vanguard' with a 4-1/8" blade, either 420HC or S30V steel - probably one of the best designed and constructed mass produced hunting and bushcraft knives currently on the market. The rosewood handle is pretty and a bit pricier, but the rubber-like krayton handle is more practical. I don't favor the gut-hook version myself. The Vanguard is a fairly popular hunting knife in the US.
phpen98nE_550-.75x550_31724.jpg

I agree, gut hooks are a gimmick - if you can't unzip your game without one, you should give up. The Buck is an okay, entry level hunting knife I agree

mrostov said:
Marbles 'Plainsman' 4-1/2" blade 0170-6 tool steel - Of the natural style handle materials, bone, either natural or simulated, probably offers one of the best grips when slippery. Marbles makes a superb general purpose knife that's extremely tough.
SMplainsmanJigged.jpg
[/

Yeuch. Just nasty - give me the Mora please!

The guardless scandinavian ground 4" knife has been developed over centuries to be perfectly adapted to our environment. In the same way I respect your Bowie as adapated to your culture and needs, this knife is adapted to ours

Red
 

TheGreenMan

Native
Feb 17, 2006
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British Red said:
Mrostov,

we normally see eye to eye on these things, but this time I must repectfully disagree



My Paul Baker (looks much the same as a woody) has been used for skinning, gralloching, food prep, woodwork, shelterbuilding etc. Its never slipped in my hands. Its been so soaked in blood that the yew slabs changed colour. Neither has the Axelson shown above (theres photos around of them both working on everything form large deer to rabbits.. I find a guard just gets in the way for many many tasks.



Well, actually most hunter gatherer societies uxeisted predominantly on gathering - up to 80% of their food sources were vegetable based. I acknowledge the use and utility of animal foodstuffs but they are just one of many food sources - variety and flexibility are the hallmarks of the man who eats well - according to the seasons, terrain, climate and availability




Well, a good half of those species are not native here, so why not have a knife adapted to the local needs? My knife will handle up to deer and nothing bigger than than exists as a land mammal so I'd be stupid to carry a knife to dress a prey I will never see




They have a different blade shape, handle shape, grind, steel and profile, they are the samwe length - there the simialrity ends.



No argument here - I'd rather have one of these than that marbles below :sigh:



I agree, gut hooks are a gimmick - if you can't unzip your game without one, you should give up. The Buck is an okay, entry level hunting knife I agree



Yeuch. Just nasty - give me the Mora please!

The guardless scandinavian ground 4" knife has been developed over centuries to be perfectly adapted to our environment. In the same way I respect your Bowie as adapated to your culture and needs, this knife is adapted to ours

Red

All of the above is what I meant to say, but didn't feel I had the time to (or the patience).

Thank you, Red.

EDIT: I can't agree that the Clipper has a better designed handle than a Woodlore, but it is 'a fraction of the cost'.

Cheers,
Paul.
 

Hoodoo

Full Member
Nov 17, 2003
5,302
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Michigan, USA
mrostov said:
The 'Woodlore' knife just looks to me a LOT like a small Old Hickory 'Paring' knife made out of tempered 1095 steel, except an Old Hickory paring knife is $5 brand new through Amazon.

Photos are deceiving. Since I own both, I can say with certainty that an Old Hickory paring knife and a Woodlore are not similar at all. Not even close.

mrostov said:
Buck 'Vanguard' with a 4-1/8" blade, either 420HC or S30V steel - probably one of the best designed and constructed mass produced hunting and bushcraft knives currently on the market. The rosewood handle is pretty and a bit pricier, but the rubber-like krayton handle is more practical. I don't favor the gut-hook version myself. The Vanguard is a fairly popular hunting knife in the US.
[/QUOTE]

I also own a Buck Vanguard. Good hunting knife but that's as far as I'd go. I actually prefer a Cold Steel Master hunter. The Vanguard is not really a bushcraft knife for all the reasons Chris mentioned above and let's face it, 420HC is getting close to the bottom of the barrel even if Bos did the heat treat. S30V is a nice improvement though. But there's nothing you can do with the Vanguard I can't do with an Old Hickory butcher knife and the Old Hickory has a full tang.

[QUOTE=mrostov]
Marbles 'Plainsman' 4-1/2" blade 0170-6 tool steel - Of the natural style handle materials, bone, either natural or simulated, probably offers one of the best grips when slippery. Marbles makes a superb general purpose knife that's extremely tough.[/QUOTE]

I own several drawers full of Marbles. The bone handled one like the one in your photo probably has the worst handle for bushcraft. Too narrow and hard as hell on the hand when you carve. The Loveless Sport 99s are excellent though. My favorite of the Marbles though would be the DeWeese and the Expert and I'll take an older Woodcraft and Fieldcraft over the Vanguard any day for hunting.

While it is true that the Vanguard is popular here in the US, I would venture to say that it's mostly due the the fact that it's cheap and you can buy it in bubble packages in sporting goods stores across the US. And most hunters in the US field dress their deer and that's about it. Off it goes to the butcher for skinning and processing. In short, the average hunter in the US doesn't do much else with his "hunting knife."

Personally I don't think the Woodlore is the ideal all rounder outdoors knife. Not all that great for cleaning fish or butchering but it will do. I agree that the thinner bladed mora's are more effective for that and are also great for woodcraft. The woodlore takes a baton well though, which might be a key to it's popularity for bushcraft and the Scandi grind is a far better grind for woodcraft than the Vanguard. No comparison, imo.
 
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C_Claycomb

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Oct 6, 2003
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When I started out doing what most here think of as "Bushcraft" I had a background of hunting and fishing. I had made myself a knife similar in style to one of Ed Fowler's, but from O-1 in thinner stock, and a wood handle.
Fowlerstyle.jpg


I took it on a Woodlore Fundamental course and was subject to a certain ammount of ribbing over the design, particularly the use of a guard. I stuck with it, partly due to stubborness, but mostly due to my having used it very successfully for dressing lots of small game and fish. The guard was great for stopping my hand slipping, but, for heavy wood carving it did have some disadvantages. Not as many as the Instructors thought, but enough that it got retired from bush duty soon after.

Now, the more I do stuff that the Woodlore was designed to do, the more it looks like a good knife, and the less useful the hunting knife styles look. :p :

Don't get me wrong, as a general outdoors knife I still like something either thinner, or that uses a flat/convex grind, but the overall size and shape of the Woodlore are very well suited for what it is designed to do. Its primary purpose was not meant as a hunting knife, so don't try to judge it as one :rolleyes:

Hoodoo understands what people this side of the Pond use knives for better than nearly any American I have spoken with. The vast majority seem to completely missunderstand what people outside their own environment use a knife for. There is a lack of comprehension that other people, in other places, may do things differently, and therefore that they may not want the kind of knife that is popular in the US. :rolleyes: I don't mean that to sound rude :eek: but it is something that has cropped up more often than not when I have talked to Americans about knives. It is weird, and I don't know why it should be that way, :confused:
 

EdS

Full Member
My Victorinox Mauser is still my most used outdoor knife. I've used the clipped blade to skin things front squirrel to roe deer. Might be a bit slow but does the job well and I've still got all my fingers. Other than that I use a 6" Wusthof Trident cooks knife for dressing & skinning game.

Although I've now got a "bushy" knife to try out.

I have managed to cut myself while skining a deer while using a "hunting" knife with a finger guard (not my knife).
 

mrostov

Nomad
Jan 2, 2006
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Personal likes and dislikes have a lot to do with some of the responses I've seen here. Everyone has their own opinion and experiences, so I'm sharing mine and maybe some can glean something from it.

I'm not knocking anyone's skill here, some of the people here are quite skilled in a lot of crafts, and I seriously respect that.

Myself, I've been doing this for a while, and having grown up with the mountains in my front yard and the desert in my back yard, and more open land to roam in than the entire size of some European countries, I think my perspective on some of these things may be a tad different.

Over here people often do many of the same things you do in this genre as far as the arts and crafts stuff. A focus on arts and crafts are good to a point, and there are many here who do fine work like that.

But, I do think that over here a larger percentage of us approach this genre from a more 'survivalist' viewpoint. Most of us over here I think are a tad more focused on the 'staying fed while in the wilderness' part of bushcraft than the arts and crafts part. IMHO, all of the woodcarving in the world will do you no good if you starve to death, and that's usually the way the Indians saw it too.

So, what we have here is a decision on what is your first priority if you have to actually live for an extended period in the wilderness? Carve wood or stay fed?

Personally, between a Leatherman, a hatchet, and a hunting knife (or previous equivalents I've owned) I've never had a problem with any field task from making traps to cleaning fish, to dressing out a deer, to harvesting cactus fruit.

bushcraftcombo.jpg


My personal philosophy is that when you are seriously remote, always have a backup blade and/or extra knives/tools, it isn't a contest to see what you can get done with the least. This is also the what those on the old frontier used to do.

These extras I often keep in my 'kit' when I'm packing extra gear usually includes a selection from a variety different tools such my puukko style patch knife, my Mule lockblade, my Rapala filet knife, a folding saw, and my '4 in Hand'. In the desert I'll often keep the 6" Rapala filet knife clipped to my belt instead of it being in my gear. In the Sonora Desert the 6" Rapala filet knife is one of the best knives you can have for harvesting edible plants.

Here's a selection of various tools I might pack nowadays in with my 'kit' if I'm bringing much extra gear.
extratools1.jpg


For example, my puukko style patch knife I made, often used as my 'neck knife', has a 0170-6C blade of a style and dimensions relatively similar to Mear's $450 potato peeler, though the handle is different.

Here's a photo my homemade puukko with the fresh sheath I have for it.
Western_Puukko_4.jpg


For shaping wood out in the boondocks or even at home I'll use a Nicholson '4 in Hand' file. THAT will shape wood faster than any knife. Oddly enough, I was doing this for years before I heard that Tom Brown Jr. was also doing something similar for shaping wood.

Most of this stuff is opinion, because if you can get it done with one favorite tool or another, then do it. There are many techniques and approaches to use for most of the different tasks that need to be done.

Even amongst the N. American Indians there was seldom, if any, one single, uniformly accepted way of doing virtually anything. Every tribe had their own ways of doing various things. These differences were pronounced enough that simple things such as the way a man tended to hold and released his bowstring provided clues as to which tribe was related to which.

Hoodoo said:
Personally I don't think the Woodlore is the ideal all rounder outdoors knife. Not all that great for cleaning fish or butchering but it will do. I agree that the thinner bladed mora's are more effective for that and are also great for woodcraft. The woodlore takes a baton well though, which might be a key to it's popularity for bushcraft and the Scandi grind is a far better grind for woodcraft than the Vanguard. No comparison, imo.

I disagree with you on the Vanguard, but I do agree on the Cold Steel Master Hunter, it's one of the few Cold Steel knives I like and I've been eyeing the 'San Mai' version of the blade. If I had to chose between a Mora or a Vanguard, I'd chose the Vanguard, even if it was the 420HC blade.

As for the bone handled knives, that's a matter of preference, I don't find bone or stag handles uncomfortable, if they are rounded, and IMHO they provide a good grip. When they are squared off scales instead of a rounded handle I'll try and change them or use something different. The 5" Western knife I use a lot and just made a new sheath for has a very similar handle to the Marbles plainsman I linked to with that photo.

British Red said:
Mrostov,
Well, actually most hunter gatherer societies uxeisted predominantly on gathering - up to 80% of their food sources were vegetable based. I acknowledge the use and utility of animal foodstuffs but they are just one of many food sources - variety and flexibility are the hallmarks of the man who eats well - according to the seasons, terrain, climate and availability

Well, that mainly depends upon the hunter-gatherer people and where they were at. In most of what is now the US and Canada, the native peoples that got that much of their food from plants were mostly the settled, stationary, farming Indians, not the hunter-gatherer nomads.

There's very few environments outside of the tropics where you can gather enough wild plant food to comprise most of your yearly diet without some agriculture. The Sonora Desert that spans much of the southern half of Arizona and extends down into parts of Mexico is one of those few exceptions, but the Indians even there were still farmers, some of them with extensive canal networks.

Red, though I defended the viability of the bowie in that thread a while back, unlike many of the boonie rats on this side of the pond I really don't use a bowie much, though I am quite familiar with them and their use.

I mainly use a hatchet and a smaller knife (4" to 5" sheath knife with a guard or a 3-3/4" lockblade). That bowie I worked on which I showed pictures of I still like, and I have a friend trying to talk me out of it. Most of bigger knives I've used in the last few years has been with one of my Nepalese made khukuris or my 18" US military machete. If I buy another bowie or large sheath knife, it'll probably be a either a Fallkniven Thor or a Marbles Trailmaker, both of which have 10" blades, which is about 1" longer than that Western Bowie I have.

I think what got some people confused in that thread is that they thought that I said that you can't use a 4" knife. What I stated was that IMHO, your PRIMARY wilderness blade, when you are seriously going to be remote, should be either a large knife, a hatchet, or an axe, but you should probably also have a smaller knife of some sort handy. It's not that you can't do things like make a shelter with a small 4" knife - eventually - but it's a matter of speed, efficiency, and conservation of calories.

If I had to ditch all of my gear and was allowed ONE blade to have as I escaped into the N. American wilderness on a trek of who knows how long, the blade I would chose to bring would NOT be my hunting knife or my bowie or my multi-tool, it would be my Norlund hatchet without a 2nd thought. That one tool gives me a hatchet, a hammer, and an ulu knife. It's also a really good weapon.

If I was allowed a 2nd tool, then it would be my Leatherman. My 5" Western sheath knife would be 3rd priority. My 4th priority? Probably my Gerber folding saw followed by my '4 in Hand'.

As for a handguard or fingerguard 'getting in the way', personally, I don't find the guard in the way. In fact, I find it quite useful on gripping and holding, leverage point, etc. If you have used a knife like that all of your life, you get used to having the guard. I look upon the guard as a plus from many aspects, not something that's in the way, and a fingerguard, like the one on my 5" Western isn't that big, IMHO.

The first time someone cuts the blazes out of themselves when they are gutting a larger animal like a deer or a sheep, they'll know what I mean. Most of the experienced people that I've seen slice themselves open pretty good while doing such stuff have been using knives with minimal fingerguards, like a Buck 110.

When I was a kid in the 70's in rural America almost every local it seemed had a Buck 110 (3-3/4") or a Buck 112 (3") on their belt. I wore a Buck 112 and as I got older a Buck 110 on my belt at school and no one thought it the least bit unusual.

Buck 110's seldom 'fail' as in the knife closing on your hand while you are using it after it has locked open. That is extremely rare and usually the knife has to be ridiculously filthy or badly damaged and/or abused. But, I have seen numerous times when someone who normally knew what they were doing, with slippery hands and a slippery 110, well, slips, and voila, since they are usually razor sharp, then you have an injury. It's like that Woodslore knife. You may be able to get away with gutting and butchering several animals with it, but if you do it enough it will eventually bite you and hopefully you're not in a survival situation when it does.

Now, I know in Britain you don't have the vast array of wild game that we do, but you do have game animals, including some types of deer. The whole point that people shouldn't lose sight of is that these skills are meant to be used for real, and some day you may have to do just that, whether it's gutting a deer/goat/sheep in the countryside or gutting a more mundane food source after some calamity, like maybe a dog or something (btw, boiled puppy was considered quite the culinary treat by the Indians).
 
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TheGreenMan

Native
Feb 17, 2006
1,000
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beyond the pale
mrostov said:
Personal likes and dislikes have a lot to do with some of the responses I've seen here. Everyone has their own opinion and experiences, so I'm sharing mine and maybe some can glean something from it...

Nice counter attack, and I agree with a lot of what you say in this post.

However, unless you have had the opportunity to use the ‘potato peeler’ from ‘The Doughnut King’, any criticism of it is not really to be taken seriously.

By the way, as I mentioned earlier in the thread, I don’t own a Woodlore, so my objection to the negative criticism of this knife is not based on a personal position that I feel the need to defend.

Best regards,
Paul.
 

Squidders

Full Member
Aug 3, 2004
3,853
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This is one of those times when we're not going to get a proper answer of any type... people by nature like to think their way is the best or right way and even with good will we try to convince others to think the same as us.

long story short, if it makes you happy - great!

I know what makes me happy, what works for me and what I can rely on and until I die, I will try new things... some will be better, some won't. BUT... that's for me to decide and only me.

it's also my money and I'll spend it on what I choose (or on what my girlfriend makes me), if you don't agree with me spending loads of money on some knives, just look away! i'm not interested in your budget, your bad back or your preferred maker of knives... I spend what I want on heavy kit from whom I want and i'm happy with it.

I suspect most people here aren't sheep and do feel somewhere along these lines. This is why this "topic" (read vague argument) won't go away.

bottom line: we're all right unless we're naked, lost and shivvering in a ditch. ;)
 

Pablo

Settler
Oct 10, 2005
647
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www.woodlife.co.uk
Getting back to the original thread starter, I've just got this from Woodhouse Joinery called The Companion Mark II.

Apart from the Paul Baker's it's the nearest I've seen to a Woodlore clone. Good specs and so far (3 outings) it has performed far beyond my expectations. Price? 85 quid. That takes some beating in my book. Still carrying the Clipper around in case though. :) Those are Zebrano scales, but I think he does others.

DSC00862.jpg


Pablo
 
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