Bushcraft wood glue

[Murf]

Hi all,
I'm trying my hand at making some camp stools and a table. I've had what for me is some good success using a stubby scotch eye auger to make some legs fit tight into a block of drift wood but I was wondering if there is a process that anyone knows of whereby I can make some sort of natural wood glue to help with things.

 

[Broch]

I'll leave others offer you glue solutions; I'm sure there will be some.

I have had success using both blind and visible wedges on my green furniture making. A blind wedge is where you make a slit in the top of the leg and insert a small wedge just a little way in. When you knock the leg into the blind hole the wedge hits the bottom of the hole first and is forced into the slit and tightens the joint (You'll probably need longer joints than in your picture). If the leg becomes a little loose as the wood seasons you can usually just give it a tap, drive the wedge further in, and tighten it.

Visible wedges are, obviously, where you've bored the hole all the way through and you drive a wedge into the end of your leg then trim and finish it.

Be a little careful if you experiment with these techniques as the wedge is quite a 'powerful' mechanical device and can split your 'seat' piece if you are over-vigorous

 

[John Fenna]

Mixed beeswax, pine resin and charcoal dust is a fine glue

 

[Murf]

I'll leave others offer you glue solutions; I'm sure there will be some.

I have had success using both blind and visible wedges on my green furniture making. A blind wedge is where you make a slit in the top of the leg and insert a small wedge just a little way in. When you knock the leg into the blind hole the wedge hits the bottom of the hole first and is forced into the slit and tightens the joint (You'll probably need longer joints than in your picture). If the leg becomes a little loose as the wood seasons you can usually just give it a tap, drive the wedge further in, and tighten it.

Visible wedges are, obviously, where you've bored the hole all the way through and you drive a wedge into the end of your leg then trim and finish it.

Be a little careful if you experiment with these techniques as the wedge is quite a 'powerful' mechanical device and can split your 'seat' piece if you are over-vigorous

Thanks Broch
That's one I'll try on a table I'm doing next. It's a chunky slab of drift wood so I can afford to go quite deep. I camp close to a tidal estuary so there's always an interesting selection of logs and slabs washed up.

 

[Murf]

Mixed beeswax, pine resin and charcoal dust is a fine glue

Thanks John
What sort of ratio would you look to use on those. Would l heat it to bind it together?

 

[TLM]

Mixed beeswax, pine resin and charcoal dust is a fine glue

Can also be based on pine tar.

One used in hereabouts was based on birch bark tar, had the wonderful name of "tökötti" (in that form it is a Russian loan). It is the dry distilled residue of various waxes in the bark.

 

[John Fenna]

I generally use about equal measures of resin and wax with a slightly smaller amount of charcoal ... but it all depends on the job of the day really ... more resin makes the mix stickier but more brittle, more wax makes it more flexible but less sticky ...
Melt it all together - the hotter the more fluid and penetrating but a cooler mix allows the glue to also act as a filler. I find it w=easy to shape the filler with my fingers without pain.
If the job needs ungluing at any point then heating it up makes the join come apart again. I also use this mix as a waterproofing mix for rawhide and plant fiber lashings

 

[FerlasDave]

When timber framing there is a method by which we use kiln dried pegs. Timber is usually still fairly green (although not enough to warp the structure as it dries) but the theory is; The bore for the peg is green and will shrink a little and the peg has such a low moisture content that it will take on some of the moisture in the beam. Once they reach equilibrium they should be pretty tight fit.

I’m sure you could employ the same technique here quite easily.

 

[swyn]

I use five minute polyurethane foamy glue for general woodworking joints. End of.

West system epoxy for serious glueing along with Titebond 3.
West system is aimed at plywood and particularly BS 1088 ply. The timber or ply must be dry.
Titebond is not so fussy. Not wringing wet mind!
PVA is another for interior work.
Watered down Titebond is also very good for knotting FYI.

Horses for courses.
S

 

[Broch]

Yes, I have a shelf of different glues too, but the OP requests ideas for natural method for securing the joints.

It's unfortunate that Hymenochaete corrugata takes so long to form; it really is a very strong adhesive

 

[Murf]

I generally use about equal measures of resin and wax with a slightly smaller amount of charcoal ... but it all depends on the job of the day really ... more resin makes the mix stickier but more brittle, more wax makes it more flexible but less sticky ...
Melt it all together - the hotter the more fluid and penetrating but a cooler mix allows the glue to also act as a filler. I find it w=easy to shape the filler with my fingers without pain.
If the job needs ungluing at any point then heating it up makes the join come apart again. I also use this mix as a waterproofing mix for rawhide and plant fiber lashings

Great info thanks. I'll give it a go and let you know how it goes.

 

[gra_farmer]

Rabbit skin glue is easy and as it can be another use for the animal that may have fed you at dinner. it is a hide glue and is brilliant when done correctly (many mistakes as a child). The glue is created by prolonged boiling of animal connective tissue, and although can be a weak bond, it goes really far, as the finished glue is a jelly.

Really it is more useful as a size, to seal rather than bond, but it does work well when combined with pegs. I used it in the past to make medieval linen windows when I didn't have bees wax. The only issue is that hide glue absorbs moisture, so mixed with an hydrophobic addition is recommended.

So a deep seated joint is best with this glue....

 

[VaughnT]

Hide glue is very easy to make, but also softens with moisture.

I'd go with the straight up Stockholm Tar, aka Pine Tar, as a binder. While it's not technically a "glue", I think the performance would be sufficiently glue-like to get the job done. And it's what Advoko does for his gear.....

Here's a video where he shows making the tar and then using it to stick the leg tenons into the base.... just like you're doing.

Considering his level of skill and experience, I wouldn't feel at all bad about following his lead.