Bow Making

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Great thread, although it is a bit spooky that whenever I get an idea a new thread is started on the topic within days...

While we go out and cut hazelstaves, could you please post a small list of the most common abreveations you will be using?

:D
 
Great thread, although it is a bit spooky that whenever I get an idea a new thread is started on the topic within days...
:D

I know what you mean, I have often had a question and found a thread on it not long after. So i have had similar thoughts as you.

Then you post this. :D
 
Ive barked it, but haven't shaved the sides down yet, should I be able to bend it at this point? because I can't its waaaayyy to stiff, does it get easier to bend once you've left it to dry or something.

Thanks
 
2" is fine. How long is it?

You need to mark the centre and then mark off 3" either side. This is the handle area and should be left alone for the time being. Now very carefully, using a rasp or knife take wood off one side only on both limbs about half the thickness. The side you take the wood off is the belly and faces you, and will be under compression. The back of the bow should have as few knots/marks as possible, and you should take NO wood off this side.

then put it in a warmish place to dry out for a few days. It will become very light compared to its weight now, which will give a good idea of its dryness.

It would be helpful if you can post a picture so I can judge where you are at.

No, it wont bend at the moment...not untill you take some wood off.

Go Slow, or it will all come to nothing...
 
its the length of my arms...about 5 ft ish, ill try and get a picture up but I dont have any camera software yet. Does it matter if the stick isn't completely straight, I found the straightest one I could but it still has a kink in the middle of it.
 
Difficult without a picture, but, try and make use of the kink. It may make a character bow.

If you load a picture to photobucket you can manipulate the picture there.

Friends around for dinner now, so unable to say more tonite.

Go make some shavings...
 
Hi All

great thread been wanting to make a bow too but didnt know where to start
got a question though when you shave off the wood from the handle do you taper it to the tip the lenth of the side of the bow ?

cheers

Gordon

ps what lenth do you idealy want to start with
 
Hi All

great thread been wanting to make a bow too but didnt know where to start
got a question though when you shave off the wood from the handle do you taper it to the tip the lenth of the side of the bow ?

cheers

Gordon

ps what lenth do you idealy want to start with

not sure about the first one but i know a good length as stovie says is about 5 ft. maybe a little more just to be safe :P
 
Hi All

great thread been wanting to make a bow too but didnt know where to start
got a question though when you shave off the wood from the handle do you taper it to the tip the lenth of the side of the bow ?

cheers

Gordon

ps what lenth do you idealy want to start with

That is pretty much the idea. To keep it simple, a pyramid design (gradual taper to the nocks) means that the thickness along the length of the limb remains the same. The "tiller" is created by the gradual narrowing of the widthe of the limbs.

72" is a good length to start with, and can always be shortened later.
 
Oooh this looks like something that I will have a go at. Always though that I didn't have any wood suitable in 'our wood' but we have loads of hazel!
Gonna have a go at this.... can we have a next installment soon so I know where I am going!!!
Dave
Oh and to pre jump the gun arrows?
 
I didn't read this whole thread, so maybe someone already mentioned this.

There is a video called "Naked Into The Wilderness #3 The Primitive Bow and Arrow" that I bought from a Hoodlum over at Hood's Woods.

The quality of the video is not great.. BUT the information is excellent and it is a great resource, in my opinion. He teaches you a LOT about making your own bow/arrows that you may not otherwise consider...
 
Oh and to pre jump the gun arrows?

To make an arrow, simply get a straight stick, if not completely straight There are a couple of methods that you may use to straighten your shafts. The first method is straightening them by hand and is referred to as the green method because it is used on saplings or any wood that is fresh and still moist. Basically you straighten the shafts as they dry. As soon as the bark is removed you take the shafts and bend them until they look straight. This bending process should be rather slow and gradual. If the wood does not bend the way you would like or if it feels like its going to break, then the next method may be better to use

First thing to do is apply grease to the area of the shaft that needs to be straightened. The grease will keep the wood from burning and scorching. Next you take the candle and heat the area until it becomes flexible. Be careful not to over heat, because this can cause the wood to become brittle and weak. If it is a long gradual bend you can straighten it using your hands or maybe bend it over a knee. Once you think that all the shafts are straight let them rest for two weeks. If bends still appear you may repeat the heating process and attempt to straighten them again.

They can be worked down to the desired size. You should always leave a few extra inches in length so that you have some room for error. Most arrows are 26"- 30" in length and 10/20mm in diameter. The size may differ depending on what the arrow will be used for, the person using the arrow, and the bow in which it will be shot from.

Once you have you shaft completely straight you can start fletching the arrow. This is applying the feathers to the end. These feathers should form a triangle around your arrow, like this:
82762568.png


Once you have the feathers it is time to prepare the vanes. Preparation of the vanes is basically the separation of the vane from the quill. There are two ways of performing this separation. The first one is stripping. It takes some practice to get this down so it might be a good idea to try it a few times on feathers that are damaged or low-grade. Stripping is done by holding the feather vertical with its quill in your left hand and your right hand holding the vane as close to your left hand as possible. Then separate the two at the very tip. Once you have it started you continue by pulling down with your right hand. This pulling action should allow the vane to split from the quill nice and clean. The other method of separation is paring. This method is more time consuming and can be more difficult than stripping, but some archers believe that this method has better results. Paring is done by the use of a razor to cut the vane away from the quill. You need to start at the thick part of the feather and work your way down. Take your time when doing this, because you need to cut it as close as possible to the web without actually cutting into it. Once they are split the feather is then the ends are neatly cut and prepared to attach to the shaft. Finished feathers are usually 5" in length

hope this helps...sorry its a bit lengthy :p
http://imageshack.us

p.s excuse the poor image, it was done on paint :D
 
thats great, and i have plenty of straight sticks in my garden :P

i was once told goose feathers are the best, am i right? and what is the best way of getting hold of/finding them?

i dont fancy wrestling a goose down the canal :D
 

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