Bow Advice

[caliban]

Hi! As coincidence would have it I acquired a sapling from where a shopping centre was being re landscaped right after asking about bow making advice. The tree/sapling was tall and slender with a grayish bark and had small spear shaped leaves a bit like big tarragon, sorry I don't know my trees I'm ashamed to say. The bit that was usable (I hope) is now 56 inches long and just a shade under 2 inches wide now at the widest point. I've just whacked it into what I think you bow guys say the shape should be. I've not nicked or scored the back at all. Do you think this might turn into a bow? What should I do with it now?

 

[dwardo]

Its a bit short for your first bow so wont be an easy tiller.

2" width should be ok but you wont be able to get a long draw from a bow that short, maybe 24-25 inch or so. The wood will need to be left indoors for a couple of weeks to dry out propery after that just have a go at tillering it.

Also for a short bow you are best to make a bow that bends through the handle as opposed to the stiff handle layout you have there. The more bending wood you have bending the more you spread the load.

 

[caliban]

Cheers Dwardo. I might try and make it into a bow for one of my wee girls. Thanks for replying, I didn't realise that non-longbows were also long bows, if that makes sense?

 

[dwardo]

Cheers Dwardo. I might try and make it into a bow for one of my wee girls. Thanks for replying, I didn't realise that non-longbows were also long bows, if that makes sense?

People tend to call bows made from one bit of wood "self bows" (any length)
Long bows tend to be at least the archers height, around 6ft ish give or take and are made from one bit of wood or a laminate.

The longer the bit of wood the more forgiving it is as you have a lot more wood to share the load, shorter bows are more sensitive to tiller as there isnt a lot of wood to take the stress. This is why shorter bows tend to be backed with sinew/hide/silk etc to give extra safety and load bearing.

If you are going to make a lighter bow drop the limb width to about an inch or it will be too heavy, go slow and remember you cant stick more wood back on

Happy tillering and post here if you get stuck

 

[badgeringtim]

Another bow post to hijack!

I was just thinking about choosing and splitting wood down from the round.
Would it matter if the grain had a little twist? ie could you have a bow that didnt have the grain all the way along and cut it to the right shape (sever the grain - seems wrong to me..?) or can you have a bow that is slightly offset ie hmm actually thats hard to describe...

Im assuming knots in the wood are a no-go.

Another thought, are limbs or the trunk better to use?

?

 

[dwardo]

Trunks tend to be a better timer in regards to grain and knots, just depends on the individual.

When you mark out your bow be sure to follow the grain even if it twists or runs off. You can correct the limbs with heat later. You can also strap down green wood to correct the shape as it dries. With knots you have to go around them leaving plenty of room either side. If you are making your first bow then its better to have a nice clear stave because knots and twists can take alittle practice.

 

[Silverclaws]

Eeee, bows, now that is something I want to get into, and have me name down on the local archery club waiting list. My interest in archery, is of the historical kind, and in particular, the recurve bow as used by Ottoman horse archers, small and powerful.

I did when I was a kid, go and lop off a yew branch from my local churchyard and made a bow, it were that powerful, I could'nt bend the thing. It looked the part, with a D section shape, tapering towards the ends, but buggered if I could pull it. My next one was sycamore, now that be a bit lighter.

How would one work out the pull of a bow, if they were making one for themself, is it a case of if you can bend the wood, ok, or is there a rule of thumb for that, and the size of the bow stave ?