Hi,
I started writing out the following instructions for folks to cut out their own, but it's becoming a geometry lesson, soooo.... if you measure up as below, send me the numbers in an e-mail, I'll work out the cutting sizes and photo it with my digital camera and send the instructions for you to print off. (Well, I'll get one of my 'technical reference manuals, to do it for me
)
I'm *not* offering to sew for anyone....I've already got 79 garments to make :yikes: and there's no way I need any more work. Besides, a lot of it's in the barter system or the 'good things network'.
If you make an underkirtle of linen too, you will have the ideal layer system.
Toddy (who's frantically sewing a pair of bodies to wear at Stirling Castle tomorrow and who desperately wishes she could just go for a walk in the woods this afternoon instead)
Making your own swanni style shirt is no problem, basic sewing skills will be fine, finishing edges and strengthening wear points is simply practical. The pattern is basically blocks, and trims and pockets are optional. The ideal stuff is the wool melton that school blazers (the sort of 'felty' ones) are made from. (Fabric discounters sell this for between £3 and £5 per metre) If you wash it cold, it won't shrink, and if you use lots of fabric conditioner you can greatly improve the shower proofing too. The other fabric that's used a lot here is Harris Tweed, which can be bought for £7 a metre in Lewis.
The basic pattern is as for a Viking or medieval kirtle without flared gores but with underarm gussets. 2 metres or one wool blanket is usually ample fabric.
I've made about 50 of these things and once they're on, they've just about to crawl off to get the guys to change out of them. Everyone from the Galgael boat crew to the local poachers wear them.
Toddy
Measurements......write out the following list 
Around head at widest part:-
Across shoulders:-
Back neck:-
Around neck:-
Shoulder to neck:-
Chest:-
Waist:-
Hips:-
Back neck to hem:-
Underarm to hem:-
Shoulder to wrist:-
Wrist:-
Fist:-
Elbow:-
Upper arm:-
Arm hole:-
Dip from back neck to front:-
Measuring Instructions
*Across back shoulders, from point to point, *usually* between 18 and 21", but I have made one at 29" (the re-enactor had a 79" waist, *big* man)
this gives the width that must be cut out for the back and front panels. I generally add on 1" for seams, sooo, if you measure 19" cut out at 20".
The seams allowance is 1/2".
*Measure around your head (you have to get the shirt on!) and a comfortable back neck from where the shoulder line will lie on one side to the other, usually between 7" and 8 +1/2".
*Shoulder to neck, measure from the side neck point to the outside edge of your shoulder. This gives the slope of the cut to make the shoulders fit properly.
*Measure from the same point on your neck to where you want the hem to be, add on 1/2 " for shoulder seam and 2" for hem.
This will give you a measurement for back and front pieces, something like 20" x 43".
*Chest, waist and hips....pick the biggest one and go with this as the measurement that all the body pieces fitted together have to cover comfortably. Most men wear their belts low, so measure around your belted trousers for your waist, not the skinny bit just below your ribs
*Shoulder to wrist, this ought to be to just on the line of the first of the bones that define 'thumb' at the base of your wrist, remember wool will crease to comfort fit with wear, and sleeves may ride up a little bit in firmer fabrics. It's also a damn sight easier to cut off too much than add on extra.
*Wrist, not as tight as your watch strap, but the comfortable, movement allowing width, that won't flap about. The fist measurement matters because this is the widest your hand is likely to ever be, trying to get into the cuff. If you want an openable cuff this is the widest measurement that it needs to spread, if you like to roll-up your cuffs you will need to adjust the split that you leave at the wrist.
*Armhole...the rule is, "Sword, shield, rifle, rope or oar" Make a loop in an inch tape about 28". Get someone to hold this at your shoulder with your armhole through it.
Now move your shoulder and arm as though to Wield a sword, Raise a shield, Fire a rifle, Heave a rope, Pull an oar. (I suppose I ought to add 'work a fire bow' for bushcrafters here!) If the loop girds or binds your arm movement anywhere during these movements, it's too tight, slacken off an inch and try again until the tape is the right length. This measurement, plus 1" (1/2" each side for seams) is the number you need for the armhole.
Women and very slender men usually have a smaller than 28" measurement, but it's a good starting point, either way.
*Dip from front to back....you need more room at the front neck than at the back, and the neckline sits lower here too. Usual dip is between 2 and 3+1/2"
*Upper arm and elbow measurements; these make sure that there's enough room in a tapered sleeve for movement, under clothes, and to trap warm air.
Cutting list,
Back panel
Front panel,
2 sleeves,
2 underarm gores,
4 side gores,
collar if desired,
pocket pieces,
Hem gores if you don't want a split side seam,
Sewing order for those not used to the pieces.
((If you are experienced I suggest that the sleeves are sewn to the side gores and the underarm gores fitted in. Then the completed sides are sewn onto the 'tabard' and the underarm completed.))
Shoulder seams
Sleeves to shoulders
Side gores
Wrist to underarm gore
Hem to underarm gore (split or gores allowed for)
Fit underarm gores
Neckline
Cuffs
Hems
Pockets
Tabs and straps, buttons ......
Cheers,
Toddy
