Best knife steel for prying and toughness/hardness?
- Thread starter WittyUsername
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Everyone goes there eventually, but you need a taste for that special type of Fallkniven bland modernism to get the most out of your relationship to it, and if true to type, you'll maybe want something with a bit of rusty tool steel character before long.
I think the remarks about O1 above are right on the money re toughness, sharpenability and its ability to hold the edge and be tuned in the field, as it were. But we know this.
I got a bit of A2 steel recently. I like it a lot. Takes a fraction longer to sharpen than O1, but holds it longer ... technically, you will get that ideal edge both better and easier on O1, though.
If uber toughness and sharpenability were really up there on the list of wants, there's 12C27 out there in pails.
I think the remarks about O1 above are right on the money re toughness, sharpenability and its ability to hold the edge and be tuned in the field, as it were. But we know this.
I got a bit of A2 steel recently. I like it a lot. Takes a fraction longer to sharpen than O1, but holds it longer ... technically, you will get that ideal edge both better and easier on O1, though.
If uber toughness and sharpenability were really up there on the list of wants, there's 12C27 out there in pails.
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In sanmai construction, when a very hard steel with high carbide volume steel used in the construction, the edge becomes brittle. Yes, the san mai will help with the bending ability of the blade, but what is the point if it can not protect the edge?
If it was me, for your described purpose I would buy one of the two knives in the videos below. I have fallkniven knives, and in my opinion they are overpriced. I would buy them at half of their current prices, which was the price point when they first started out, but they constantly increased their prices.
Depending on tempering it can be glass brittle or bubble gum, just a choice and compromise.
Some old wootz swords apparently were lots of carbides on a perlitic matrix, no martensite in sight.
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Terävä Skrama 240, Carbon Steel
The Skrama is a versatile heavy-duty bush knife – if youre taking just one knife into the bush, get a big Skrama! Fast international delivery.
www.varusteleka.com
I second to Skarma Carbon if the OP does not mind plain/dull looks! It has everything to get the specific job done. Right hardness, differential heat treatment for shock resistance, right grind for chopping and battoning and the right steel (80 CRV2)!
here is a good overview for the most important steel-parameter - so there is not the only one who is the best over all (toughness, hardness, edge retention, corrosion resistance) and maybe for an survival knife is the easy of sharpening an other parameter
so for me böhler m390 ist over all the best premium steel but large (bowie) are rar to find
kornalski
kdknives
dpxgear dpx-hest-6-decade
mr
so for me böhler m390 ist over all the best premium steel but large (bowie) are rar to find
kornalski
kdknives
dpxgear dpx-hest-6-decade
mr
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Not a bad article, just that it forgets cold brittleness. Not very long ago a large local manufacturer forgot that too with the result that at least one of their knives did not survive normal winter usage. A reasonable low temp here is -40C when the northern part is considered, -30C here in the south. Bad goes to -50C.
With high alloy small grain material not so much of a problem but high carbon low alloy is there and there and some outliers exist. Lots of variation in data considering effect of alloying elements.
With high alloy small grain material not so much of a problem but high carbon low alloy is there and there and some outliers exist. Lots of variation in data considering effect of alloying elements.
In that kind of cold, brittleness is the reason Fallkniven went to lamination for their F1 ... it was made originally in just VG-10 ... then laminated with 420J after reports of snapping blades. Same reports for Roselli UHC
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I can’t see that Eagle Ridge knife for sale anywhere, it looks like a nice option though.
Cheers everyone, I have read all the posts, I’ve just been flat out at work and unable to keep up.
M390’s added to the list, now. As is a Becker BK-?.
@Billy-o , I was a bit gutted to find that Fallkniven only do the A2 in VG-10. If that was in Lam.cos I think I’d have seriously considered it.
This seems a decent place to ask:
What oil do you guys use to maintain your knives if they’re being left on a shelf for a while? Will WD40 do the job? I just want a light coat left on the blades once I’ve cleaned them in case I don’t pick that knife up again for a few months.
What oil do you guys use to maintain your knives if they’re being left on a shelf for a while? Will WD40 do the job? I just want a light coat left on the blades once I’ve cleaned them in case I don’t pick that knife up again for a few months.
Search for BROC knives. He also has social media accounts. He is the maker of the knife. A custom knife maker from Northern Ireland.
I do not want to be contradictive to others, but I feel urge to warn you. Neither D2 nor M390 is known to be tough steels. I do not think they are suitable steels for a survival knife.
Cheers mate, I’ll bear that in mind.
I’ve messaged the Eagle Ridge Insta account.
I’ve found this, which would be absolutely perfect if it was half the price...
Medford Bonfire | Lamnia
13" overall. 8.25" black PVD coated 3V steel drop point blade. Black G10 handle. Full, extended tang. Lanyard hole. Black Kydex belt sheath. Blade
www.lamnia.com
Yes, it looks like a suitable candidate for your criteria, but I do not think you will able to find a 3V knife of that size for half the price of that. It is an expensive steel. However, there are suitable and cheaper alternatives! A8 Mod, 80CrV2 are all suitable. 5150 is so tough, it has been used in axes! If you do not mind the looks, then Skrama is an viable option. They also sell only blade, so if you know anyone with the talent you may get a customized skrama at a good price!.
White River Firecraft 7 Leather Sheath
Ultiem survival mes gemaakt van premium materialen
What’s S35vn like in terms of toughness?
Bit tougher than S30V, which had/has a reputation (well founded or not) for being a bit chippy.
BTW - have an ask on Blade Forums and Bushcraft USA ... bit more knifey there than here. You'll get a broader sense and many more suggestions of makers etc.
BTW, BTW - have you looked at the Roselli Leuku? It is something I keep thinking that I might buy again
BTW - have an ask on Blade Forums and Bushcraft USA ... bit more knifey there than here. You'll get a broader sense and many more suggestions of makers etc.
BTW, BTW - have you looked at the Roselli Leuku? It is something I keep thinking that I might buy again
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There is something of a problem using Charpy or Izod data for evaluating material toughness in knives, the test pieces are usually quite thick because plane strain conditions are wanted but thin knives spend most of their lives in plane stress. Depending on the material the order on fracture toughness could be different also fracture itself propagates differently.
I have never seen testing done on the knife thickness scale, would be interesting to see the results.
I have never seen testing done on the knife thickness scale, would be interesting to see the results.
