Bent axe blade

[Rea]

Hi, While attempting to sharpen my new and first axe, I noticed that the blade is bent in the corner. Hopefully you can see the bend in this picture: https://ibb.co/2dT5xqM


I won't be able to fix this so I'm wondering if it is still usable for splitting wood?

Thanks,
Natalie.

 

[gra_farmer]

Hi, While attempting to sharpen my new and first axe, I noticed that the blade is bent in the corner. Hopefully you can see the bend in this picture: https://ibb.co/2dT5xqM

I won't be able to fix this so I'm wondering if it is still usable for splitting wood?

Thanks,
Natalie.

Although a noticeable bend, I see no reason why it would not work to split wood. Might not be as comfortable....

 

[Mesquite]

I won't be able to fix this so I'm wondering if it is still usable for splitting wood?

You really are learning about axes the hard way aren't you Natalie

As Graham said, it should be fine to use as is, especially as the bend is pretty low down. You'll soon learn to use the centre and upper portion of the blade

 

[Rea]

Thanks both. I have had a go and it's not easy! I'm telling myself prehaps it's not sharp enough yet, but I think I just might be a bit of a weakling.

 

[Broch]

What species of wood are you splitting and what size are the logs? - some is notoriously difficult. The easiest, and the most satisfying to me, is ash. Do you have the logs raised up on something? It is much easier, and safer, if you are swinging the axe onto a log sitting on a piece of tree trunk or similar - so sitting 60cm or so off the floor.

However, I'm sure you've watched that Paul Kirtley video I pointed you to

From your photo the edge looks sharp enough to split logs.

 

[Rea]

What species of wood are you splitting and what size are the logs? - some is notoriously difficult. The easiest, and the most satisfying to me, is ash. Do you have the logs raised up on something? It is much easier, and safer, if you are swinging the axe onto a log sitting on a piece of tree trunk or similar - so sitting 60cm or so off the floor.

However, I'm sure you've watched that Paul Kirtley video I pointed you to

From your photo the edge looks sharp enough to split logs.

It's kiln dried oak. The log I have to split on is pretty low. I'm not sure where I'd find a better/taller stump though. This is quite a learning curve!

 

[Rea]

Actually, I've just looked... I didn't realise you can buy tree stumps for chopping online. Maybe I need one of those too... although they all seem to be 35cm tall, not 60cm.

 

[William_Montgomery]

Actually, I've just looked... I didn't realise you can buy tree stumps for chopping online. Maybe I need one of those too... although they all seem to be 35cm tall, not 60cm.

It's always worth asking local tree surgeons for a stump.

 

[Mesquite]

It's kiln dried oak. The log I have to split on is pretty low. I'm not sure where I'd find a better/taller stump though. This is quite a learning curve!

Simple solution to that is get a kneeling mat and do all your splitting knelt down. Much less strain on your back which you'll thank yourself for as you get older.

Another useful aid would be getting a wooden mallet and baton the thicker pieces with that and your axe. You'll have far more control and be able to place your blade exactly where you want to split. It's the way I do it to process logs down at a campsite

 

[Broch]

Actually, I've just looked... I didn't realise you can buy tree stumps for chopping online. Maybe I need one of those too... although they all seem to be 35cm tall, not 60cm.

TBH, depending on your height, 60cm could be a bit tall. 35 would do because, by the time you put a log on it, you'll be aiming higher. Just remember to work out where the axe will end up if you miss

Whereas I agree with Mesquite; kneeling is a good and safe method, a 68cm axe is a bit unwieldly to use kneeling down.

"Batoning" does work well but, if the logs are really tough, you'll need a heavy mallet. Whatever you do, don't use a metal club hammer or similar to hit your antique axe with! You could distort and crack the eye.

 

[TLM]

"Batoning" does work well but, if the logs are really tough, you'll need a heavy mallet.

A wedge and sledge hammer. I want to keep my axes and batoning with a wooden mallet on those dry birch logs just does not work.

 

[Rea]

TBH, depending on your height, 60cm could be a bit tall. 35 would do because, by the time you put a log on it, you'll be aiming higher. Just remember to work out where the axe will end up if you miss

Whereas I agree with Mesquite; kneeling is a good and safe method, a 68cm axe is a bit unwieldly to use kneeling down.

"Batoning" does work well but, if the logs are really tough, you'll need a heavy mallet. Whatever you do, don't use a metal club hammer or similar to hit your antique axe with! You could distort and crack the eye.

Thanks. I forgot to say, I did watch the very helpful videos

 

[sidpost]

A good blacksmith can take the bend out. Annealing the steel will take the hardness away but, any good blacksmith will heat it up and quench to keep it hard.

 

[Bearmont]

My Gränsfors Bruks had the whole head with a small twist in it. Not a dealbreaker but it soured me on the brand a bit, especially considering price.

That picture looks like a fairly slim Scandinavian profile too. You might not even notice it much in actual work but it's just bothersome having a crooked blade.

 

[Danceswithhelicopters]

Looks more like a light forest axe.. What you need is a maul for splitting wood. A totally different, design specific tool for splitting wood rounds, not felling or limbing.

The head is weightier, the cheeks of the blade are steeper and the blade length narrower to focus your force, bite deeper and to split the wood through the grain.

Over you use a maul for splitting you get it straight away and never go back. If you can only own, or afford one axe, yep, I get it and the forest axe will do but seek one out and give it a try.

Like bikes owning axes has a formula of N+1...where N is the amount of axes you already own.

 

[Broch]

Sorry guys, you missed the earlier thread (see below). The axe is an old English Kent pattern Daniel Silcock Sheffield axe - and at 2 1/4 Ibs perfectly capable of splitting logs. It's an antique so needs treating with respect as well

Is my axe safe?

Hi, I've recently installed a very small woodburner and need to split kiln dried logs so they will fit in the firebox. I've purchased a old 2 1/4lb, 68cm long Kent pattern axe on Ebay (I pretty much have no idea about axes but thought that might work well for the task/a female.) The seller...

bushcraftuk.com

 

[sidpost]

Thanks both. I have had a go and it's not easy! I'm telling myself prehaps it's not sharp enough yet, but I think I just might be a bit of a weakling.

A heavier head and longer haft will both make your job much easier!

 

[sidpost]

Something like this would work well for you:

Hultafors splitting axe KLY 7-0.9 SV​

Stihl has a good splitter in the USA for $35USD that I believe is made by Ochsenkopf out of Germany.

 

[sidpost]

Sorry guys, you missed the earlier thread (see below). The axe is an old English Kent pattern Daniel Silcock Sheffield axe - and at 2 1/4 Ibs perfectly capable of splitting logs. It's an antique so needs treating with respect as well

Is my axe safe?

Hi, I've recently installed a very small woodburner and need to split kiln dried logs so they will fit in the firebox. I've purchased a old 2 1/4lb, 68cm long Kent pattern axe on Ebay (I pretty much have no idea about axes but thought that might work well for the task/a female.) The seller...

bushcraftuk.com

Hmm, I wonder if it isn't sharp and causing her some problems.

 

[Ystranc]

Two and a quarter pounds and 68 cm says limbing axe (also known as a forest axe) to me, designed for taking off the side branches after a tree has been felled, these axes are supremely adaptable to anything from felling to splitting. I doubt the slight twist in the bit (sharp end) will be much of an issue unless you find that it transmits too much shock to your wrists.
It’s a good idea to split some hardwoods while they’re still green as they get harder as they dry, oak especially.
As to the height of splitting block, as long as the axe will not strike your feet or shins if you miss strike the log and you’re not injuring your back and shoulders it is down to whatever is comfortable to you. Buying chopping blocks online seems like an expensive option.
There are asymmetrical axes designed for splitting that deliberately have a twisted bit but I wouldn’t recommend them.