agreed, i went as far as buying a leatherman without a knife on it, but i found it was the knife that i used half the time anyway
Advice for 16 year old buying a lock knife?
- Thread starter Telemarkmike
- Start date
Try telling a Copper his multitool isn't legal carry 
and yes for many it isn't...
and yes for many it isn't...
Yeah, we had very nearly the same superstition. The only difference being in our case it didn’t have to be a silver coin. The norm was a penny as a token.
I got various hunting guns at Christmas or birthdays. I make sure my grandsons still do: the oldest got his first 22 rifle when he was 9 and his younger brother is comin up on 9 this summer.
Yeah, I understand Was having changed.. It’s that “social acceptability” thing I’m having trouble wrapping my mind around. That and there seems to be surprisingly little pushback against draconian restrictions.yeah very different period then, i was a teenager in the early 90's and used to carry a small penknife, i remember my dad and my grandad both carrying a knife all the time aswell, i still have my fathers.
However fast forward 30 years and we now live in a nanny state, having a penknife or similar on your person is now much more socially unacceptable
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I am no British advocate.
In my opinion the only option to carry legally a locking folding knife in the UK is to carry a shortened and deasembled Opinel No7 Carbone.
It is possible to give it a lower tip if shortening the blade.
It works well as a friction folder when the blade became a bit rusty where it touches the handle.
I mean to carry a shortened Opinel Carbone No7 in the right pocket. The locking ring in the left pocket with the plyers.
In Germany the opinion is that a fix blade knife up to 12 cm blade length is a tool, and OK to carry it well visible at the belt especially if there is a good reason to do so. But a hidden carried one hand locking folder is seen as a weapon that easily could be used in an attack.
An Opinel is obviously a farmers knife.
And an outstanding good food preparation and carving knife too.
I think this Opinel or a typical small Swiss Army knife like the Victorinox Compact or Climber as EDC or a real full tang survival knife in the forest for bushcraft, survival training, hiking and camping are reasonable choices.
I could carry other locking knifes in Germany. But because I don't trust the modern locking mechanisms I don't buy such stuff.
In my opinion the only option to carry legally a locking folding knife in the UK is to carry a shortened and deasembled Opinel No7 Carbone.
It is possible to give it a lower tip if shortening the blade.
It works well as a friction folder when the blade became a bit rusty where it touches the handle.
I mean to carry a shortened Opinel Carbone No7 in the right pocket. The locking ring in the left pocket with the plyers.
In Germany the opinion is that a fix blade knife up to 12 cm blade length is a tool, and OK to carry it well visible at the belt especially if there is a good reason to do so. But a hidden carried one hand locking folder is seen as a weapon that easily could be used in an attack.
An Opinel is obviously a farmers knife.
And an outstanding good food preparation and carving knife too.
I think this Opinel or a typical small Swiss Army knife like the Victorinox Compact or Climber as EDC or a real full tang survival knife in the forest for bushcraft, survival training, hiking and camping are reasonable choices.
I could carry other locking knifes in Germany. But because I don't trust the modern locking mechanisms I don't buy such stuff.
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So many better options than this.
Telemarkmike - if you’re still afterdecent options, give a shout and we can suggest some. I’m happy to put up a set of pics / video to show how secure the ukpk / urban/ squeak handle is.
Thank you.
I am ordering him the UKPK tonight. I will probably have a look at some of the other options that have been mentioned on this thread for myself too. The Lionel Steel Thrill looks stunning. A step up from my edc, an opinel 6 with olive wood handle.
While I have found my original G-10/S30V UKPK and my replacement (lost the original) FRN/S110V to be very good from a practicality point of view, I get a greater buzz from my Lion Steels. The Bestman reminds me of the Stockman type knives that my Grandfather carried, but it is also modern cool with titanium and M390, which means it doesn't rust the way the old 1095 blades did. The Thrill with its single piece mono-block handle and aluminium back spring is just cool and pleases the engineer in me. I have an old Schrade Stockman, but don't know who makes a good one now. I don't much like pocket knives that rust from finger prints and sweat.
I am afraid I can't recommend the Viper Key, even though it looks great, the blade is very stiff to open, so much so that if you have no finger nails you may fail. Too much of an Event trying to open it.
I have a Viper Dan2 and a colleague has the Dan1 in wood, but While it feels great, and looks good, and carries well, it does not stay open as well as I would like. It would be fine for office EDC, but its size made me want it for a woods-knife and its not quite right for me there.
Much as I like locking knives, and one handed openers and think the Benchmade Griptilian (and probably the Hogue RSK folder) are the best all around locking folders for outdoors/camping...the Ben Orford Nomad was the best folding bushcraft knife I have yet handled...even though it is only a friction folder. If it was stainless I would have one!
I am afraid I can't recommend the Viper Key, even though it looks great, the blade is very stiff to open, so much so that if you have no finger nails you may fail. Too much of an Event trying to open it.
I have a Viper Dan2 and a colleague has the Dan1 in wood, but While it feels great, and looks good, and carries well, it does not stay open as well as I would like. It would be fine for office EDC, but its size made me want it for a woods-knife and its not quite right for me there.
Much as I like locking knives, and one handed openers and think the Benchmade Griptilian (and probably the Hogue RSK folder) are the best all around locking folders for outdoors/camping...the Ben Orford Nomad was the best folding bushcraft knife I have yet handled...even though it is only a friction folder. If it was stainless I would have one!
The Nomad « Ben & Lois Orford
Introducing our new design the ‘Nomad’ friction folder. This knife has evolved through the need for a UK legal carry knife, that is a non- locking knife with a blade under 3″ in length. We wanted to design a friction folder influenced by the classic design of our Woodlander knife with a shapely...
benandloisorford.com
At the start of your post, you mention the ukpk in both the g10/s30v and frn/s110v iteration. My son is set on the ukpk and was wanting th HH g10 version which is unfortunately out of stock and according to the website will not be available until much later in the year. The s110v is a step up in price, is it worth the premium? I am also a little concerned with the maintenance of the blade as I have heard that it is harder to sharpen. Do you think it would be a good alternative?
Would FRN/S110V be a good alternative to red G10/S30V for your son? That is a really hard question.
While there was much I liked about my original UKPK, I never got on with the S30V. Basically, S30V should be sharpened to give a toothy edge, 600-800 grit, which it then holds for a long time. I liked stropped, polished edges and before reading and trying the coarse edge, I spent a lot of time polishing my S30V, then being disappointed when the razor bite vanished almost by itself.
For me, I am happier with the S110V in a FRN handle than I would be with S30V in even a nice red G10 handle, but I have the kit and practice to sharpen it.
There are a number of factors about whether S110V would be better, first is whether your son has access to diamond and ceramic sharpeners, then whether he can reliably get a razor edge on his existing knives? Next how much he cares about performance vs appearance. S110V performs, G10 looks and feels nice. If he has the kit, the basic skill (no one gets better without practice...there is always a first harder-to-sharpen knife), and the interest in performance, the S110V would be worth it.
When I started getting into better knives I began with Cold Steel AUS8. I didn't have anything more than a fine hard Arkansas stone, no one in the family to show me how, and no internet. With your support and the resources readily available today, a 16 year old can learn to sharpen as well as anyone...actually, better than many. I know I soaked up skills like a sponge at that age.
Of course....someone who doesn't like FRN, and isn't interested in premium steel performance could make an argument the other way!
Chris
While there was much I liked about my original UKPK, I never got on with the S30V. Basically, S30V should be sharpened to give a toothy edge, 600-800 grit, which it then holds for a long time. I liked stropped, polished edges and before reading and trying the coarse edge, I spent a lot of time polishing my S30V, then being disappointed when the razor bite vanished almost by itself.
For me, I am happier with the S110V in a FRN handle than I would be with S30V in even a nice red G10 handle, but I have the kit and practice to sharpen it.
There are a number of factors about whether S110V would be better, first is whether your son has access to diamond and ceramic sharpeners, then whether he can reliably get a razor edge on his existing knives? Next how much he cares about performance vs appearance. S110V performs, G10 looks and feels nice. If he has the kit, the basic skill (no one gets better without practice...there is always a first harder-to-sharpen knife), and the interest in performance, the S110V would be worth it.
When I started getting into better knives I began with Cold Steel AUS8. I didn't have anything more than a fine hard Arkansas stone, no one in the family to show me how, and no internet. With your support and the resources readily available today, a 16 year old can learn to sharpen as well as anyone...actually, better than many. I know I soaked up skills like a sponge at that age.
Of course....someone who doesn't like FRN, and isn't interested in premium steel performance could make an argument the other way!
Chris
Wow, you are a minefield of information.
We are planning to buy something for sharpening, possibly the sharpmaker or more likely a cheaper alternative by Lansky. He has spent time learning to sharpen some of his cheaper knifes with an opinel stone but I don't want him using that on th ukpk as it is far too good a steel to get scratched up and damaged. It is great to be able to search online and learn how to sharpen. I am no expert (I spend more time sharpening ski edges, ice screws and ice axes). I have kind of left my son to teach himself with some independent learning but as I said, this ukpk is an expensive knife to make mistakes on.
....or as the comment about the true meaning of BB being "buy both"...a Boker Plus Techtool1 right now, learns sharpening, and the HH UKPK when it appears, for the same as the S110V UKPK 
If that is the situation, then I think the S110V might be a bit of a big step to make in one go.
Crock-stick sharpeners are pretty easy to use. I have bought Spyderco Sharp Makers for a friend and for my dad (who isn't into knives) to sharpen kitchen knives on. They work well for maintenance and take a lot of guess work out.
Another option is to make your own pocket and bench sharpeners using 400 & 1000 grit diamond sheets stuck to varnished ply or other tough, flat material.
https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-diamond-sheet-ax974873 . Bench stones that stay put on the bench are easier than hand held stones, or light stones that move around.
I have long contended that one of the things that gets beginners into trouble with sharpening is going at it with too fine a grit when the edge is really dull, or is too steep and they need to re-set the bevel. That takes too long, leading to fatigue, frustration and carelessness.
If that is the situation, then I think the S110V might be a bit of a big step to make in one go.
Crock-stick sharpeners are pretty easy to use. I have bought Spyderco Sharp Makers for a friend and for my dad (who isn't into knives) to sharpen kitchen knives on. They work well for maintenance and take a lot of guess work out.
Another option is to make your own pocket and bench sharpeners using 400 & 1000 grit diamond sheets stuck to varnished ply or other tough, flat material.
https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-diamond-sheet-ax974873 . Bench stones that stay put on the bench are easier than hand held stones, or light stones that move around.
I have long contended that one of the things that gets beginners into trouble with sharpening is going at it with too fine a grit when the edge is really dull, or is too steep and they need to re-set the bevel. That takes too long, leading to fatigue, frustration and carelessness.
I was stopped by the police one evening..they asked where I’d been & what was in my bag?After a polite chat, I told them that I was carrying sharps( axe & a couple of knives). They were tucked away safely in the bag. Now I was wearing my kit so I guess I looked genuine enough & on I went.
So be polite & don’t give them a hard time, there just doing their job.
So be polite & don’t give them a hard time, there just doing their job.
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