Adding a few handles to two fire steel blanks. **PIC HEAVY**

[VFR800Essex]

First is a small piece of Yew i acquired whilst on a Woodlore course.

Antler for the 2nd one.

Preparing the steel so that the epoxy will hold better to the smooth steel.

Hole fully drilled using a flat wood drill/bore.

Same on the Antler.

All glued up and left to cure.

Next steps will be shaping the handles.

I'm OK working with wood but never played with Antler, any tips to shaping Antler apart from the smell!!

 

[tim_n]

what glue did you use?

 

[VFR800Essex]

what glue did you use?

Just used a decent two part epoxy.

 

[Angst]

hi...antlers nice to work with....no major probs....tho buffalo horn seems a bit more fragile and prone to friction and scratches real easy once polished....i use 151 epoxy for firesteels and sticks and z-poxy for knife handles....

good work m8

a

 

[crosslandkelly]

Nice looking work.
Colin.

 

[tinderbox]

what glue did you use?

If you drill the hole on the handle a millimetre smaller than the steel then friction alone will hold the steel in place.

 

[grey-array]

If you drill the hole on the handle a millimetre smaller than the steel then friction alone will hold the steel in place.

I understand where the Idea origins from but to get the effect that you discribe Tinderbox, you should dril a hole that is exactly as big as the rod and about 10 mm deep ,then there is the effect we call in Dutch "Schrank trekken" and it means that if any force is exerted on the object that is sticking out, it will wedge itself in creating tons of friction keeping itself in side the hole. I couldn't find an accurate translation, my apologies.
But if your material you drill into is not flexible enough and you drill a smaller hole like Tinderbox explained you'll get a crack, and my presumtions are that if you do this in a piece of wood that is not green ( so with a humidity level below 11%) or in antler, that you will get a crack, also it will be very difficult to get your Firesteel Rod/Ferocerium rod/ Flint Rod or what ever name you give it, in, without hitting it with a hammer, also enlarging the chance on damaging your project.

I hope that helps, and clears something up.
ps Tinderbox, not trying to be a smart bottom, just wanted to help ** looks up carefully with his head down**
Yours sincerely Ruud

 

[rancid badger]

Best to wear a dust mask when sanding antler and I'd probably say the same for the yew, now I come to think about it

looking forward to seeing the end result

good luck

Steve

 

[tinderbox]

I need to put my hands up here and admit that my handles are purely functional, and not decorative. Go with grey-array it's good advice.

 

[grey-array]

Thanks Tinderbox, and Ps VFR800Essex, if your not the total go green maniac as I am Epoxy does a marvelous job, only unhandy thing about epoxy is, if its in its in and so you its hard to simply replace a stick but hey, before your Steel goes out you'll be at least 9 months further and its a hell of a good excuse to make another one

 

[VFR800Essex]

I'd like to place a brass tube into the handles for a lanyard. Are there any tips on the best course of action to complete this without the tube becoming loose or splitting the wood or antler?

 

[grey-array]

I'm not sure, have never done this myself, but perhaps you could ask Angst or one of the other knife makes, they seem to be quite succesfull if it comes to inserting tube or rivets inside horn and wood.
Yours sincerely Ruud

 

[John Fenna]

To unstick anything epoxied together simply stand it in boiling water for a minute or two and the epoxy dies....

 

[grey-array]

I really like the way you put that John,

and the epoxy dies....

but is that so with all epoxy's?
yours sincerely Ruud

 

[Angst]

hi john....handy to know....but a further question....when grinding say for instance mosaic pins (which are only held in by friction/glue as opposed to corbys/loveless etc) they become really hot and can therefore melt the glue....and the scales can smoke yup....presumably the glue cools and re-sets but is it damaged in any way or is the glue still sticking as much as in its pre-melted original state?....

as for inserting lanyard....if its 8mm then drill an 8mm hole....however perfectly you drill it the chances are it will be bigger than 8mm even if by the tiniest amount so the tube will go in and still be snug dont worry....first of all though make sure you score/rough up the outside of the tube with sandpaper.....i actually fix a hacksaw upside down in my vice and rub the pins up and down on the blade to rough it right up.....also smooth the leading edge of the tube a little to allow it to be tapped through gently with a hammer.....and before insertion cover the tube outside in glue and daub some inside the hole....


regards

a

To unstick anything epoxied together simply stand it in boiling water for a minute or two and the epoxy dies....