A tool I don’t recognise.

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A seam rubber perhaps? Or a tool for twisting thread?

The only thing i can find which is similar are for working with clay.
 
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Like Hillbill, I think it's a Treen - sail rubber,but they usually have a flat at one end o,r for something that needs twisting back and forth like twisting thread or stitching in an eyelet on a sail.
 
Yes, waxed thread, then you rub the stitches flat, called "dead men", put more wax on if you feel it needs it. Or to maintain a seam if it is looking a bit worn. I do this on my bike leathers, but using a more liquid wax. Destruction tests on bike leathers found it prevents loss of strength in the stitching over time.

I think Wayland has cracked it though, I recall recently somewhere something like this being used to tension up or pull thru whipping ends. Little less unwieldy than a marlin spike if you are pulling a long thread thru on canvas.
 
Think it is likely a "rubber" used in canvas work, but not really a tool for rubbing down an edge fold, for which the wedge-shaped rubber is ideal.
The item in question is a ringer for what I use specifically to flatted down the edges of a round seam.
I also find it handy for burnishing a completed sewn-in eyelet.
Presently doing lots of seasonal gifts in the form of ditty bags, with 8 eyelets.

Regards All
Ceeg
 
Think it is likely a "rubber" used in canvas work, but not really a tool for rubbing down an edge fold, for which the wedge-shaped rubber is ideal.
The item in question is a ringer for what I use specifically to flatted down the edges of a round seam.
I also find it handy for burnishing a completed sewn-in eyelet.
Presently doing lots of seasonal gifts in the form of ditty bags, with 8 eyelets.

Regards All
Ceeg
Thank you Ceeg, that might explain the lack of the wedge which perplexed me.
 
Yes indeed I do and I've two gadgets, depending on the job in hand.
Recently did some mods on a sail foot, re-roping and adding more reinforcing patches.

If you use multiple threads, especially those well waxed, there is quite a bit of extra friction to overcome when drawing the thread through.
Up to 4 threads , the needle can be easily pulled through with a smooth-jaw scrolling plier....this tool is also very handy for passing the oversize needles.

Once you find yourself having to use even more threads, (the reason for proper needles having such a lonnng eye), neither they or the needles will easily pass through multiple layers of such weight canvas s'...so their entry must be pre-started with a suitable size pricker.

To tension up such multiple threads (roping work). the best device is a stitch-heaver.
Real heavers were a T section of steel or smooth hard wood, often fluted along the length , though mostly square section if made in hardwood...

You take several winding turns of the thread bundle, around the long section and then just keep on turning the handle to reach the tension needed.

The original heaver, would often have a dimple at the long end, this was to engage the head of the needle and enable it to be pushed through the entry hole, where access by hand was impeded.

Another way of tensioning, is to make a small version of a heaving mallet ....and this is very much the speediest option.

That sail I worked on, had 12 layers of Duradon at tack and 8 to 10 along the foot and , for a thread for use in this region, I stripped down some Polyester mooring line and used the single 3 or 3.2 mm filament.

The drawing -through of the needle with scrolling pliers, though smooth jawed, does leave minor marks which are easily smoothed down with
0001 wire wool.

I have never been enthusiastic about the extended collar that is found on a proper Roping palm, as a means of hauling tight the stitch by , effectively , strangling the root of my thumb.

Finally, longtime sewing of heavy canvas, causes an inevitable diagonal scar on the tip of the forefinger, .......get yourself a finger stall of the type used by fishermen who cast beach rods and use a fixed-spool reel to do so. These stalls are made of tough stuff which prevents the deep cuts made by the ultrathin superstrong lines that cut through bare fingers as easily as a cheesewire through Cheddar.

Regards All
Ceeg
 
That is very informative, thanks. I didn't know the reason for the long eye, now I do! Not heard of scrolling pliers, but the smooth jaws makes sense. Tried looking them up, but got useless suggestions of tongs or pictures of ordinary pliers.
I need to get a proper palm, and I do have problems pushing even ordinary sewing needles thru' with a metal thimble. I tend to use some small needle nose sprung pliers to grip the needle and put it through, but of course this also can mark/roughen the needle.
That sail sounds like a real tough one, that's a lot of layers, especially at the tack. Was this on an older "vintage" type boat, e.g timber boom/ and mast? I used to sail a little gaff rig dinghy on a river before I got opportunity to sail on modern yachts, it stood me in good stead.
 
I don't actually know where tha sail came from, was something similar to a high gaffs'l used on Humber sloops, though only 75% their area and much much sturdier built. Certainly a real handful of a job.

Come the heritage week, it was far and away too stormy to hoist it, so I never saw it in action.
Gladdened to hear you're after a proper palm, it is possible to improvise one, though I wince at the ease of potential injury from slips. Whatever palm you get, it needs to be a good fit, or padded internally to suit.( glue bits of strip leather inside) The stiffer the whole palm, the more advantage it will give you
Ceeg
 
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Yes indeed I do and I've two gadgets, depending on the job in hand.
Recently did some mods on a sail foot, re-roping and adding more reinforcing patches.

If you use multiple threads, especially those well waxed, there is quite a bit of extra friction to overcome when drawing the thread through.
Up to 4 threads , the needle can be easily pulled through with a smooth-jaw scrolling plier....this tool is also very handy for passing the oversize needles.

Once you find yourself having to use even more threads, (the reason for proper needles having such a lonnng eye), neither they or the needles will easily pass through multiple layers of such weight canvas s'...so their entry must be pre-started with a suitable size pricker.

To tension up such multiple threads (roping work). the best device is a stitch-heaver.
Real heavers were a T section of steel or smooth hard wood, often fluted along the length , though mostly square section if made in hardwood...

You take several winding turns of the thread bundle, around the long section and then just keep on turning the handle to reach the tension needed.

The original heaver, would often have a dimple at the long end, this was to engage the head of the needle and enable it to be pushed through the entry hole, where access by hand was impeded.

Another way of tensioning, is to make a small version of a heaving mallet ....and this is very much the speediest option.

That sail I worked on, had 12 layers of Duradon at tack and 8 to 10 along the foot and , for a thread for use in this region, I stripped down some Polyester mooring line and used the single 3 or 3.2 mm filament.

The drawing -through of the needle with scrolling pliers, though smooth jawed, does leave minor marks which are easily smoothed down with
0001 wire wool.

I have never been enthusiastic about the extended collar that is found on a proper Roping palm, as a means of hauling tight the stitch by , effectively , strangling the root of my thumb.

Finally, longtime sewing of heavy canvas, causes an inevitable diagonal scar on the tip of the forefinger, .......get yourself a finger stall of the type used by fishermen who cast beach rods and use a fixed-spool reel to do so. These stalls are made of tough stuff which prevents the deep cuts made by the ultrathin superstrong lines that cut through bare fingers as easily as a cheesewire through Cheddar.

Regards All
Ceeg
I'm starting to feel the need for a "show us the contents of yer ditty bag" thread...
 
Oh, thats very posh.

my Leatherwork kit for work is usable rather than posh.

Its housed in a double wooden wine box. (Should work to make smarter)

And its interesting how few tools I actually use...
 

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